28 posts tagged "Phoebe Philo"
This morning, the British Fashion Council announced the nominees for the 2013 British Fashion Awards, to be held in London on December 2. The race for this year’s emerging talent awards will be especially exciting—while 2012 saw the comparatively long-established Jonathan Saunders and J.W. Anderson take the honors in the up-and-coming men’s and womenswear categories, respectively, 2013′s nominees include Marques’Almeida, Thomas Tait, Simone Rocha, Craig Green (left), Christopher Shannon, and Agi & Sam—the veritable new-new in London’s fashion pool. Green, in particular, has seen his star skyrocket this year, after peddling his unconventional take on menswear since his graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2012.
New in 2013: an International prize, for which Prada, Marc Jacobs, and Dior (Raf Simons) are named, and a Best Campaign award, the contenders for which have not yet been revealed. It’s sure to be a close race between Cara Delevingne, Edie Campbell, and Sam Rollinson for Model of the Year. Same goes for the womenswear designer of the year honor, for which Christopher Kane, Céline’s Phoebe Philo, and Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton have been named. For a full rundown of the 2013 nominees, visit the BFC’s Web site.
Pleating, in various iterations, unfurled as a keynote trend this season. Alexander Wang, for example, offered boxy swatches on miniskirts in New York. Also crimped in Manhattan: Victoria Beckham‘s peekaboo accordion creases. And, in Paris, Phoebe Philo caused a stir with loads of narrow corrugations at Céline. Yet where these designers skewed toward traditional folding, a trio of labels proposed a fancier twist on the technique for Spring ’14 via intricate pleats that mimicked ruffles.
At Delpozo, creative director Josep Font’s barley-yellow trousers, which boasted an arc of frilled pin-tucks, were a standout in his soft, painterly collection. In Paris, Dries Van Noten opened his show with a quiet white frock, the seams of which were embellished with whorls of gilded fabric. Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier, too, employed creased ruffles in his Spring ’14 lineup. One dress in particular—a gray-green number vertically veined in bow-like folds—was particularly striking. “I wanted to add texture and dimension in an unusual way,” Maier told Style.com. “The monochrome color, combined with the movement of the pleats, creates this effect.” To construct the garment, Maier and his team blended cotton with a vegetable fiber called ramie, which possesses malleable characteristics akin to copper. The result was a tactile sartorial sculpture.
Beneath Phoebe Philo’s athletic, streamlined wares for Céline, the designer has her quirks—remember Spring ’13′s fur-lined Birkenstocks or Fall ’13′s tied-sleeve coats? That penchant for the unconventional will soon extend to the brand’s London flagship, which, opening in September, will feature furniture by Danish artist FOS.
“Fashion is a two-faced being. On one side, the value it produces mirrors our time, but on the other, it is a giant retail spider,” FOS (née Thomas Poulsen) told Style.com from Copenhagen. It’s a fitting sound-off for an artist-cum-ergonomist who seemingly lives somewhere between fantasy and reality—just look at his oddly storelike installations that skew perceptions of space, purpose, dreams, and cognition. Reinterpreting his vision for an actual sales environment, FOS seamlessly transitioned from what he described as the “phenomenal” world into the “physical” one, creating singular, and surprisingly practical, accents like golden, tubular lamp shades and earthen table stands. FOS added, “This marks the high point in collaborating with Céline. Design has always been a part of my artistic frame, which by its nature is part of fashion’s.”
FOS’ furniture for Céline will be available via special order through London’s Max Wigram Gallery. Price upon request.
London-based womenswear label Issa—the Kate Middleton favorite responsible for the Duchess’ famed sapphire engagement frock—announced today that its founder and creative director, Daniella Helayel, is stepping down. “The time has come for me to move on to focus on my art, travel, and other interests,” said Helayel in a press release. Sources say that Helayel, who launched Issa in 2004, had been unhappy in her role for some time.
Helayel will stay on to consult on the label’s Banana Republic collaboration through December 2013, but the brand reveals today that Central Saint Martins-trained designer Blue Farrier has been appointed as Issa’s new creative director. In addition to having worked under Phoebe Philo at Chloé for six years, Farrier has worked with such labels as Stella McCartney, Sandro, and Anya Hindmarch.