28 posts tagged "Phoebe Philo"
It feels like ages ago that we saw the Spring 2010 collections tromp down the runways, but those pieces—the cool neutrals, sporty sweats, and all those flak jackets on parade—are beginning to hit stores. And, well, we’d be lying if we said we hadn’t been waiting. What’s on the Style.com wish list?
Executive editor Nicole Phelps’ favorite look is Phi‘s khaki jacket and slouchy military pants, which, alas, aren’t destined for production now that the label has been shuttered. “So I’ll take Haider Ackermann‘s leather cargo vest and bias-cut long silk skirt instead,” she says. “The only question is, will I have an occasion to wear them?”
Associate fashion market editor Romney Leader’s had her eye on silk ikat pants from Dries Van Noten “to add a pop of color to my wardrobe.” Fashion market editor Marina Larroude will be one of many lining up for Phoebe Philo’s gorgeous, neutral leather pieces for Celine. “I’d die for any of their bags and shoes,” she reports. (We’ll try to see that it doesn’t come to that.)
As for me? I’m saving for one of Patrik Ervell‘s rust-detailed shirts from his marvelously (and literally!) corroded collection—full of pieces, I should add, that would look as good on a girl as a guy. (Ervell sent a few young ladies down the runway to prove it.) For a refresher on all the trends of the season, check out our Spring 2010 Trend Reports, and sound off on your own must-haves in the comments below.
Nine years after shuttering his eponymous label, Josephus Thimister is returning as the founder, owner, and art director of his house. His much anticipated comeback—featuring couture and luxury ready-to-wear pieces for both women and men (a first)—is slated to take place during the Couture shows in January, when he will also be presenting a line of “young” furs for T.Paris.
The 47-year-old Dutch designer spoke with Style.com about the benefits of experience and why now, of all times, is the moment to “grow into a comeback.”
Where have you been all this time?
Well, I never wanted to come back because when you are your own backer, it’s a nightmare! In a way, I had to stop because my collection was produced by Genny and they wanted me to work just for them. It was a time when I had just lost my mother and my best friend. My label had enjoyed great press, but inside the structure it was a mess. So I took a sabbatical year and traveled to Brazil and Argentina, then suddenly three years had gone by. Then I started working for commercial brands, starting with Genny, and I found I loved it because I could make them better than they were. I designed the Andy Warhol collection (for markets outside the U.S.; it never hit the stores). Then I went to Charles Jourdan—the quality and craftsmanship were there, it could have worked so well had it not been for mismanagement—and I also consulted for Swarovski.
Call it optimism or call it escapism, but Spring 2010 is the season of the ruffled party dress: usually short, often chiffon, and almost always nude (we refer to both the color and the prevalence of sheer fabrics). Marc Jacobs—who else?—kicked the trend into high gear with his parade of ballet nymphs in New York. The frill lasted all through London, Milan, and Paris, taking in along the way Christopher Kane, Fendi, and Jacobs’ former protégé Peter Copping at Nina Ricci. But toward the end of Paris, a counterinsurgency. At Celine, Phoebe Philo cleared the collective palate with a collection that she herself described as “a kind of contemporary minimalism.” Hannah MacGibbon was of a similar mind-set at Philo’s former stomping ground Chloé, and, thinking about it, the groundswell of “utility chic” could be traced back via Junya Watanabe‘s pantsuits to MaxMara‘s back-to-what-we-do-best styles to…well, didn’t Marc put those plain little raincoats over his ruffles? (And was it just coincidence that the patron saint of contemporary minimalism, Jil Sander, chose this moment to re-emerge with her +J line for Uniqlo?) So, suddenly, two camps: one that flirts with frivolousness but that also has the potential to create romance and desire, the other practical but possibly in danger of coming across as too plain. Click for a slideshow, then tell us, which side are you on, and perhaps more pertinently, which approach will make you open your wallet?
Ivana Omazic’s last splash for Celine (which Phoebe Philo is resuming control of soon) could be the chicest thing on two wheels—Bicyclette, a capsule collection of “jersey dresses [and] cotton poplin skirts” for cycling, due this spring. Because who rides a bike in shorts? [WWD]
According to overworked British photo sleuths, key elements of Madonna’s Purim costume came directly from daughter Lourdes’ closet. Jesus Luz’s Joker costume, on the other hand—all him. [The Daily Mail]
If you’re tired of only having Michelle and Carla’s name to bandy about when fashionable first ladies come up, forget not Cristina Elizabeth Fernández de Kirchner (an actual president, that one) or Princess Haya Bint Al Hussein (who happens to be one of two wives, but hey, who’s counting?). These names, and more, are sure to liven up any cocktail party debate. [The Daily Beast]
For her Tokyo debut at the Valkyrie premiere, Katie Holmes fooled no one with her overnight hair growth. Will the extensions stay, or is this some kind of Asia-only phenom? Style Filers, do you want the crop back? [The Daily Mail]