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April 20 2014

styledotcom Must be the night fever. stylem.ag/1ncyFYw

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31 posts tagged "Phoebe Philo"

Blasblog: Go Gentle Into That Good Night

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For two guys who started the crotch-baring, NSFW, gay—make that very gay—magazine BUTT, Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom are far more well mannered than you might expect. They’ve even gone so far as to call their new women’s magazine The Gentlewoman—paging Miss Prim! But even if their first and latest mags—a glossier, more fashion-oriented men’s title, Fantastic Man, came in the middle—aren’t exactly kissing cousins, a smart, chic sensibility unites them. No crotches were bared at the quintessentially Parisian launch party, held in a salon in the Saint-Germain last night, but the design and edit crowds gathered to sip Champagne and toast newly minted editor in chief Penny Martin (pictured, left, with Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Brian Phillips, and Jonkers) and cover girl Phoebe Philo, shot by David Sims with a proper Celine scarf knotted around her neck. (“She brought that with her,” Jonkers reports, “but it’s vintage. I imagine she took it out of the archives, or maybe she bought it on eBay.”) Philo is the gentlewoman to a tee, say the editors. “We’re already thinking of the next issue, and who would be good,” Jonkers went on. “But it’s true, a good gentlewoman is hard to find.” Van Bennekom, sadly, wasn’t feeling up to snuff at his opening; he had a cold and decided to duck out from the party early. On his way out, though, he was kind enough to refuse kisses and would only shake hands after a dose of disinfectant. “I don’t want to get anyone sick! That would not be very gentlemanly, or gentlewomanly, either.”

Photo: Jacques Habbah

Make Hers A Double

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Uniform dressing has been the buzzword on the European runways, but that doesn’t mean savvy designers haven’t found ways to tweak the suiting standards. We’re loving Paris’ creative plays on the double-breasted jacket. Stella McCartney sheared the sleeves off of hers to create a sleek camel coat-dress (left). Hussein Chalayan opened his show with several variants of the DB, each one low-slung and low-breaking for a sexier style—our favorite buttons just above the hem (center). And Phoebe Philo, a coat mistress if there is one working today, sent out a trompe l’oeil take at Celine: Hers closed along the far right side, with only a single top button to suggest a right-hand row (right).

Photos: Marcio Madeira / FirstView.com

Tom On The Runways, Lim At Home, And More…

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As our reviewers have been noting, Tom Ford’s influence is being felt on the women’s runways. The guy himself may soon be back up there, too. WWD reports that Ford has been quietly scouting designers for the womenswear line he’s been promising. Oh, and Oscar hosts Alec Baldwin and Steve Martin will be wearing TF tuxes at the show, so don’t worry, men of the world—Tom isn’t abandoning you, either. [WWD]

The Gentlewoman, the ladies’ mag from the guys behind Fantastic Man, launches next week in Paris, but a few early details have leaked already. Most tantalizing among them: The first issue’s cover girl is Celine’s Phoebe Philo. Yes, please. [WWD]

The Sunday Times pays a visit to Phillip Lim at his Soho loft, which he shares with his adored French bulldog, Oliver. What you’ll find there: a stuffed bird, a giant croc-skin “rug,” and a very Zen-sounding designer, given to pronouncements like “Some days peanuts; some days shell.” [NYT]

And Alice in Wonderland opens at long last today, which means the floodgates are open for (even more) media coverage. Our favorite recent bit: Helena Bonham Carter based the despotic Red Queen on her two-year-old daughter, Nelly, of whom she says: “Orders, orders, all the time. No pleases. No thank yous. Totally selfish. No empathy.” [Times U.K.]

Photo: Mark Stewart / Camera Press / Retna

What’s On Your List For Spring?

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It feels like ages ago that we saw the Spring 2010 collections tromp down the runways, but those pieces—the cool neutrals, sporty sweats, and all those flak jackets on parade—are beginning to hit stores. And, well, we’d be lying if we said we hadn’t been waiting. What’s on the Style.com wish list?

Executive editor Nicole Phelps’ favorite look is Phi‘s khaki jacket and slouchy military pants, which, alas, aren’t destined for production now that the label has been shuttered. “So I’ll take Haider Ackermann‘s leather cargo vest and bias-cut long silk skirt instead,” she says. “The only question is, will I have an occasion to wear them?”

Associate fashion market editor Romney Leader’s had her eye on silk ikat pants from Dries Van Noten “to add a pop of color to my wardrobe.” Fashion market editor Marina Larroude will be one of many lining up for Phoebe Philo’s gorgeous, neutral leather pieces for Celine. “I’d die for any of their bags and shoes,” she reports. (We’ll try to see that it doesn’t come to that.)

As for me? I’m saving for one of Patrik Ervell‘s rust-detailed shirts from his marvelously (and literally!) corroded collection—full of pieces, I should add, that would look as good on a girl as a guy. (Ervell sent a few young ladies down the runway to prove it.) For a refresher on all the trends of the season, check out our Spring 2010 Trend Reports, and sound off on your own must-haves in the comments below.

Photos: Marcio Madeira; Monica Feudi (Celine)

Josephus Thimister Has Nothing To Lose

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Nine years after shuttering his eponymous label, Josephus Thimister is returning as the founder, owner, and art director of his house. His much anticipated comeback—featuring couture and luxury ready-to-wear pieces for both women and men (a first)—is slated to take place during the Couture shows in January, when he will also be presenting a line of “young” furs for T.Paris.
The 47-year-old Dutch designer spoke with Style.com about the benefits of experience and why now, of all times, is the moment to “grow into a comeback.”
Where have you been all this time?

Well, I never wanted to come back because when you are your own backer, it’s a nightmare! In a way, I had to stop because my collection was produced by Genny and they wanted me to work just for them. It was a time when I had just lost my mother and my best friend. My label had enjoyed great press, but inside the structure it was a mess. So I took a sabbatical year and traveled to Brazil and Argentina, then suddenly three years had gone by. Then I started working for commercial brands, starting with Genny, and I found I loved it because I could make them better than they were. I designed the Andy Warhol collection (for markets outside the U.S.; it never hit the stores). Then I went to Charles Jourdan—the quality and craftsmanship were there, it could have worked so well had it not been for mismanagement—and I also consulted for Swarovski.

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