11 posts tagged "Pitti Immagine"
Announced this morning: Gareth Pugh will be the next designer to show his collection at Pitti W, the womenswear portion of Pitti Immagine in Florence this January. (He follows Haider Ackermann, who showed women’s and his first men’s collection last January, and Proenza Schouler, Giles Deacon, and Giambattista Valli before him.) In selecting Pugh, Lapo Cianchi, Pitti Immagine’s communications director, cites his evolving aesthetic and his multidisciplinary presentation style, like the film he screened in Paris for Spring ’11. Stay tuned for more details on what he’s got in store for Pitti in January, and in the meantime, check out Pugh’s past collections here.
Her influence on American fashion—via one customer in Washington in particular—is already outsized, and now it looks like her store may be, too. Chicago retailer Ikram Goldman is said to be shopping for a new, larger space in the Windy City. Will there be a private salon for you-know-who? [WWD]
There’s been no shortage of Maison Martin Margiela retrospectives, but the latest sounds like it should be a good one: Somerset House in London will display 20 years of MMM’s wares (including those from the time when there actually was a Margiela in the Maison). [Telegraph via Racked]
Haider Ackermann revealed that he’ll debut some men’s looks alongside the womenswear he’ll show in Florence at Pitti W. [WWD]
And if you’ve been waiting for Costello Tagliapietra’s collection to drop at Uniqlo, the wait is almost over: The slinky dresses from the bearish duo hit the racks tomorrow. [Stylelist]
At Midtown’s swank A Voce this afternoon, Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine—which oversees Florence’s menswear, womenswear, childrenswear, and textiles shows—was on hand to preach the Pitti gospel to a collection of editors over tagliata and crostata. The biggest names are, at this point, well known: Raf Simons will show his latest menswear collection for Jil Sander at Pitti Uomo, while his friend, Haider Ackermann, will show a women’s pre-collection at Pitti W. (The PowerPoint presentation delivered included a lengthy quote from Ackermann that’s surely worthy of inclusion in the inscrutable show-notes hall of fame: It eludes even reproduction here, but suffice it to say it ended with “…opium.”) What’s lesser known is the new emphasis on design, as in objects, not clothes—pieces will be dispersed around the pavilion, selected by “a platoon of ‘design watchers’ ” including Roberto Valentini di Penelope, Giusi Ferré, and the inaugural winner of Pitti’s Who’s On Next accessories award, Max Kibardin. Patricia Urquiola has also designed a new top floor for the main pavilion (pictured). But the bit of industry gossip most intriguing was slipped in almost in passing. Both Fendi and Gucci are set to launch new children’s collections at the kids’ wear show, Pitti Bimbo. Canny marketing for those who can afford it: Get the customers young, and keep ‘em for life.
Pitti Immagine CEO Raffaello Napoleone held a lunch today at Adour, the Alain Ducasse restaurant in the St. Regis, to promote his organization’s January trade fair in Florence. One of the schedule’s highlights will be Giles Deacon’s Pitti W pre-fall presentation to be held at Richard Ginori 1735, a Florentine porcelain manufacturer. On the menswear front: Lars Nilsson has been invited to preview his new Mr. Nils men’s collection, and up-and-comer Umit Benan, the winner of the first edition of “Who Is on Next? Uomo,” will showcase his full Fall line. In other news, Stefano Tonchi of The New York Times and Maria Luisa Frisa will celebrate the release of their new book All Power to the Imagination: Walter Albini and His Times during the fair. At 300-plus pages with over 1,000 images, it’s a tribute to one of Italy’s most influential (but often overlooked) designers. And speaking of Italian legends, La Spezia, which makes uniforms for the Italian navy, will debut a collection made from military fabrics dating back to the fifties and sixties. If those aren’t reasons enough to book your trip now, Napoleone reports that getting to Florence is easier than ever; the train ride from Milan is now just 1 hour and 40 minutes long.
Talk about a tough room. When Giambattista Valli presented his pre-fall 2009 collection at Pitti Immagine in Florence last night, his clothes competed for attention with Michelangelo. Seriously. The Valli catwalk ran through the Palazzo Vecchio’s storied Salone dei Cinquecento, where Michelangelo’s sculpture The Genius of Victory is housed and where Giorgio Vasari’s frescoes trumpet Florentine victories of old from wall and ceiling. Would Valli’s show likewise be a triumph? The local aristocracy and fashion nobility turned up to find out—Margherita Missoni, Franca Sozzani, Hortense Visconti, and Vogue best-dresser Bianca Brandolini and sister Coco were seated in the front row. (No Lapo sighting, though.) But Valli claimed he wasn’t nervous about making his debut before a hometown crowd, or, for that matter, about contending with Renaissance masters. “Italy is my country,” he said. “And to show at the Salone dei Cinquecento, that is a dream come true. When I came out on the catwalk and saw the magnificence of the crowded room and my work being celebrated there I was the happiest of men.” Later, Valli celebrated that euphoria with a seated dinner for marquee attendees at the Four Seasons. Florence has no shortage of buildings fit to make even the most seasoned of travelers go into a tourist swoon. The Four Seasons is in a converted palace on the outskirts of town, and Valli’s repast was held in a hall nearly as impressive as the Vecchio’s Salone. By this point, however, there was no distracting Valli’s guests: With a first course of seared tuna and quail egg salad arriving on the table at nigh on 11 p.m., all eyes were on the food.