27 posts tagged "Pitti Uomo"
“If I told you I was mixing wax prints, Prince of Wales checks, and astrakhan, you’d say, ‘Oh, how horrible!’” said emerging designer Stella Jean. “But looking at it, you can see that all cultures can work together.” Jean proved her point brilliantly yesterday at Pitti Uomo 85 in Florence, where she was invited for the second season to show her fledgling menswear collection for Fall ’14. Continuing her exploration of multiculturalism, Jean translated her signature bright wax prints into the gentlemen’s club style of Victorian London. She began by reducing the size of the prints, which took the form of tight, geometric patterns inspired by tie designs. These appeared on sharply tailored trousers and double-breasted vests with matching shirts and ties topped by thick tweed coats. “When you want Africa to enter the British concept of tailoring, you have to be very subtle,” offered Jean, who turned out a wax trenchcoat with an astrakhan yoke, and gave the traditional men’s derby shoe a wax upper.
Bright tweed coats looked winter dandy when combined with leather trousers and sweaters in stripes and animal patterns. And the wax smoking jacket with velvet lapels managed to look both exotic and clubby. The best part of this collection, however, were the details: tablet covers in wax, smart scarves, Jean’s Phileas Fogg bag, and wax pattern socks held up by proper gentleman’s garters.
The fashion biz has had quite a year. 2013 was jam-packed with major designer shakeups, groundbreaking ad campaigns, celebrity collaborations, and pop star performance wardrobes filled with custom-made designer duds. In the final days leading up to 2014, we’re counting down Style File’s most popular twenty stories of the annum. So sit back, relax, and relive 2013′s unforgettable moments. Read numbers fifteen through eleven, below.
Nasty Gal’s Sophia Amoruso has been a newsmaker this year, to say the least. Shoppers and insiders alike watched in awe as her business took off, and now her multimillion-dollar e-tail platform is set to open a range of brick-and-mortar locations. Style.com’s Nicole Phelps sat down with the 29-year-old eBayer-turned-CEO in August to talk about her passion for vintage, the New York fashion scene, and the future of Nasty Gal.
14. Delphine Arnault and LVMH Announce the New LVMH Prize for Young Designers
In November, Style.com broke the news that mega-luxury group LVMH is launching a 300,000 euro international fashion prize for young designers. Style.com’s Matthew Schneier spoke with Delphine Arnault about the new initiative.
13. Nick Waplington Talks Alexander McQueen and Working Process
Before his tragic suicide in 2010, Alexander McQueen asked photographer Nick Waplington to document the creation of his fifteenth anniversary collection, the Horn of Plenty. Waplington was one of the only people outside of McQueen’s studio allowed to observe the designer’s creative process, and his new book, Alexander McQueen: Working Process, provides an unprecedented look at the creative genius in action. Style.com’s Katharine K. Zarrella spoke with the photographer about the tome, what it was like to work with McQueen, and why the designer was so keen on preserving his legacy.
12. Alaïa Walks the Dotted Line
Whenever Azzedine Alaïa holds a fashion show, it’s a special treat. In March—well after the ready-to-wear collections had wrapped—the legendary designer quietly presented his polka-dotted Fall ’13 offering at his Paris studio. Style.com had a front-row seat.
11. A Man’s World: Nick Wooster Talks Pitti
At Pitti Uomo this past June, tattooed dandy and menswear insider Nick Wooster spoke to Style.com about the evolution of the Florentine fair, his favorite new talents, and why he’s a “Disneyland attraction.”
“We’ve offered so many olive branches,” Dylan Jones, the editor in chief of British GQ, and chairman of the London Collections: Men, told WWD last week. “[The Italian organizers] seem to be intransigent and don’t appear to be particularly interested in working with London, so we’re just going to go ahead.” His statement was in response to an ongoing scheduling conflict that the newly established London menswear shows, which will run from January 6 through 8, have with Florence’s long-standing menswear fair, Pitti Immagine Uomo, whose eighty-fifth installment is set for January 7 through 10. In an interview with Style.com today, however, Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone and director of special events and projects Lapo Cianchi argue that they’ve been more than cooperative. “We have had very good conversations with [British Fashion Council chairman] Caroline Rush,” offered Napoleone. “And we are totally open to finding a balance and solution to this situation.”
The concern on both parties’ ends is that, due to the current two-day overlap, editors and buyers will have to choose one fair over the other, and will miss key events in either city. Burberry, for instance, will present its Fall ’14 menswear lineup at 2 p.m. in London on January 7. Meanwhile, Diesel Black Gold—Pitti 85′s guest brand—is meant to hold its Fall ’14 show in Florence later that evening. Pitti’s (rather opulent) answer this time around is to charter a plane and fly about fifty editors to Florence immediately following the Burberry show.
The problem ends up involving all four major menswear cities: If Pitti were pushed back to accommodate London, Milan and Paris would have to alter their calendars as well. According to Napoleone, the Pitti team proposed a fix, to which Milan and Paris are reportedly not opposed: London would always run from January 6 through 8, Pitti would begin on the 8th, Milan on the 12th, and so on. “We’d have to show on the weekend, which is not exactly what we feel would be best for our clients or exhibitors,” expressed Napoleone, noting that while there would still be a one-day overlap, it was at least an improvement. “But as the French say, faute de mieux—if there are no other solutions, you have to accept it. The last time I was in London with Dylan and Caroline, I left them this very fair proposal, and we didn’t receive any answer.” As for why Pitti didn’t just concede to start on January 8 this season, Napoleone said, “The seventh was decided with Milan and Paris two years ago, before the new London fashion week had started.”
Napoleone insists that he has “no idea” what inspired Jones’ comment. “Dylan Jones is a supporter of Pitti. He always attends,” said Cianchi. “The real olive branch in this story is that every city is open to renouncing something. We are completely open,” Napoleone added.
Launched in June 2012, the London Collections: Men, which now kicks off the menswear season, has definitely made the fashion calendar a little tight (and consequently ruffled some old-establishment feathers along the way). However, it’s an important platform for the city’s wealth of menswear talent (both up-and-coming and established), who were previously made to present the day after the women’s shows—or simply in a different city. (Burberry, for instance, returned to its native London last season after a long history of showing in Milan.) But, according to WWD, the platform is getting some pushback from its Italian counterpart. This season, LC:M, which begins on January 6, overlaps two days with Florence’s Pitti Uomo, thus forcing buyers and editors to choose the shows, events, and presentations in one city over the other. “We haven’t reached any agreement [on dates],” said British GQ editor Dylan Jones, who serves as the chair of LC:M. “As far as I’m concerned, we’ve offered so many olive branches. [The Italian organizers] seem to be intransigent and don’t appear to be particularly interested in working with London, so we’re just going to go ahead.” Which metropolis will emerge victorious? Tune in this January to see how it all turns out.