April 16 2014

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27 posts tagged "Pitti Uomo"

The Pitti Preview


Raffaello Napoleone, Pitti Immagine’s dapper CEO, convened a group of editors and trade officials—many chattering away in Italian—at Quattro in New York City for a briefing on the upcoming Pitti Uomo and Pitti W fairs. It was a whirlwind visit (Napoleone and company headed for the airport while most were still sipping espresso), but the news was all good. As has been announced, Gareth Pugh (left) will be the invited guest, presenting his new womenswear collection in Florence in January. (Via video message, he expressed his gratitude; Pitti’s special events director hinted that he’d be showing in an unlikely location—one that had never hosted a fashion show before.) Trussardi will be the invited guest for men’s, but the company has plans that go far beyond fashion. In the Stazione Leopalda in the heart of Florence, the label will not only host its fashion show, but also present an exhibition called 8 ½, one that will include contemporary artworks by Maurizio Catellan, Paul McCarthy, and Tino Sehgal. (There’ll even be a house made of bread, courtesy of Swiss conceptual artist Urs Fischer.) And Alberta Ferretti will kick off the event with a special collection presented, she said, “for women everywhere.”

The Florentine trade fair, which runs from January 11 to 14, will also play host to a variety of intriguing launches: a new archival project London-based designer Aitor Throup is undertaking with Umbro; a capsule collection celebrating the centennial of the Italian suit line Lubiam; and a new project from Adam Kimmel, who took his turn as Pitti’s invited menswear guest two years ago.

Photo: Courtesy of Pitti Immagine

Trussardi Named Special Guest At Pitti Uomo


Trussardi 1911—as its name would indicate—celebrates its 100th birthday next year. The brand announced today that it’s getting an early present of sorts: a coveted spot guesting at the next edition of the Florentine menswear fair Pitti Uomo, where, in the past, Raf Simons (for Jil Sander), Thom Browne, and Adam Kimmel have shown their work. The appearance, though, won’t be limited to Milan Vukmirovic’s ready-to-wear collections (left) for the label. It’ll bridge all of the Trussardi family’s projects, including art, food, and design—all of the Italian-made variety—and will be showcased at Florence’s Leopolda Station during the fair this January.

Photo: Courtesy of Trussardi 1911

Raf Simons: Fashion Should Be “Hard To Grasp, Hard To Find”


Pitti Uomo kicks off in Florence tomorrow, and the headliner this time around is Raf Simons (left), who unveils his Spring ’11 menswear collection for Jil Sander on Thursday night. The timing isn’t entirely coincidental: Simons brings Sander to Pitti as he marks five years as the brand’s creative director, and he says he sees the excursion to Florence as a fitting celebration of his work, as he puts it, to “free Jil from itself.” “I believe in the Jil Sander heritage, but the brand can’t always be about double-face cashmere and a white shirt,” Simons says. And since he’s taken the reins, it hasn’t been. Marbled suiting. Half-length blazers. The pieces, in stores now, printed with the artwork of Tsuguharu Foujita. Jil Sander will be a far different thing after Simons’ tenure, and that, Simons says, is the point. “When someone else comes to do this job, there should be more possible than there was before,” he asserts. “Not that I’m planning on going anywhere.” Below, Simons talks to about the influence of nature, the changing designer customer, and taking stock at the five-year mark.

The Jil Sander show is a cornerstone of Milan’s menswear fashion week. Did you have any concerns about relocating the show to Florence this season?
No, no, quite the opposite. It felt right, after five years, to do something different. And separate. People are coming specially; they’re not turning up for our show and then running off to the next one. It’s a whole event. We’re bringing people to an estate in the hills, showing outside in a tremendous garden with a view of the city below. Afterwards, there will be a dinner. We are creating an atmosphere of celebration—the people at Pitti are very good at that. And it was the right moment. Next season, back to Milan.

You must have known you’d be showing Spring ’11 at Pitti before you started designing the collection. Did the anticipation of a change in location have any effect on the clothes?
In fact, that’s another, very important reason why I thought it would be good to come to Pitti, because I was curious to see how it would influence me.

So? How did it?
Well, as I said, we are showing in a garden, and so first of all, I was thinking about what it meant to be in nature. Not to say this is an “eco” collection, but you know, Milan can be quite sterile, and our shows in Milan, they’re very clean and quite intimate. Nature has a different scale. To be in dialogue with nature, you have to contend with that scale in some way. I was asking myself, how does the human body relate to this space?

I suppose the obvious way to answer that question is to do something dramatic with the silhouette.
This isn’t a silhouette-driven collection at all, as a matter of fact. I don’t want to compete with nature; I also don’t want to blend in. What I want is to create a tension, a certain friction or electricity, and show something you wouldn’t expect in that environment. The collection is quite uncomplicated. It’s very much about color and about material, which is the heritage of Jil. I wanted to go back to the roots. No spectacle. No over-the-top form—more simple and easy to relate to. The color and the material are more challenging. But I’ve probably already said more than I should. Continue Reading “Raf Simons: Fashion Should Be “Hard To Grasp, Hard To Find”” »

Pitti Uomo, Day 3: Mick, Keef…Umit?


The Pitti foundation, which supports and promotes new fashion talent, waved its wand over two names this season: shoe designer Max Kibardin (his cowhide clogs were an indelible image) and Umit Benan, who produced his first-ever live show for his Fall men’s collection, called Retired Rockers. It was basically a tableau vivant: Around a dinner table sat a group of seasoned older guys with a couple of young ‘uns and some beautiful women (also, of course, substantially younger) thrown into the mix, and around them sat the audience, looking on uncertainly as the diners made merry. The music was Dire Straits but the vibe was Stones all the way—a kind of worn-out glamour, eccentric elegance, comfort, the degree of connoisseurship that appreciates Nice Things, but, mostly, clothes for men who feel they don’t have to prove anything anymore. “The dressing gown at the end of the driveway,” as Benan put it, obligingly offering some full-length wrap coats in plaid cashmere. But the designer is also a master of no-slouch tailoring, and there was plenty of that, too. As for the appeal of these grizzled old survivors? “There’s experience in older faces,” Benan said before the show. “A young guy’s just a kid for me.” That’s him on the right, above, not much more than a kid himself.

Photo: Courtesy of Umit Benan

Mr. Nils: The Movie


At Lars Nilsson’s Mr. Nils presentation at Pitti, the designer showed a short film he’d created for (and featuring) the collection in the snowy Swedish countryside. Our roving reporter deemed it worthy of love. Who are we to object? Below, your daily dose of eerie, atmospheric lake-gazing—plus some really nice outerwear.