8 posts tagged "Pitti W"
Brazilian born, London-based designer Barbara Casasola has been chosen as Pitti W’s Fall ’14 guest designer. The 29-year old talent, who showed on the official London Fashion Week calendar for the first time in September, will present her collection in Florence at the Italian fair this coming January. Previous guest designers have included Damir Doma, Maison Kitsuné, and Peter Pilotto.
The menswear schedule is heating up, ladies and gents! (Well, mainly gents.) Today, WWD reported that Haider Ackermann, who quite successfully tried his hand at menswear back in 2010 (left), when he showed a collection at Pitti W (it was picked up by Barneys), is joining the Paris men’s schedule. For his second foray into menswear, which will debut on June 26, Ackermann will be presenting what he’s dubbed a “men’s wardrobe.” The menswear reveal comes on the heels of last week’s announcement that Belgian entrepreneur Anne Capelle had split the Haider Ackermann and Ann Demeulemeester labels, both of which had been linked under the same parent company. She told WWD that Ackermann’s label, which he launched in 2001, had “fully matured over the years, becoming a fully stable and independent business on its own.” Indeed, Ackermann has the potential to be an exciting addition to the men’s market. And we bet that a few of his female devotees (ahem, Tilda Swinton) will be fans of the boys’ clothes, too.
Yesterday afternoon, Raffaello Napoleone, the CEO of Florence-based fashion fair Pitti Immagine, hosted a lunch at Il Cantinori—the much-loved Italian restaurant in New York’s Greenwich Village. The purpose was to discuss the upcoming Pitti Uomo (June 18 to 21), Pitti W (June 18 to 21), and Pitti Bimbo (June 27 to 29). And while the fettuccine and branzino may have been old-school, Napoleone’s plans for this season’s fairs felt forward-thinking. Napoleone told Style.com that, in general, fashion fairs are not often, well, fashionable. Pitti aims to be the exception to this rule. “We try to do as much research as we can, because the Italian and international buyers need to see something new season after season. We have to offer them something that they cannot find easily on the map,” he explained.
Addressing the press and buyers in attendance, Napoleone highlighted Pitti Uomo’s and Pitti W’s guest designers—Japanese menswear label Kolor and Paris-based womenswear label Damir Doma—who will show on the evenings of June 20 and June 19, respectively. A focus has been placed on new designers from emerging markets, with six young talents from Korea and seven from Pitti Uomo’s guest nation, Turkey, slotted to present their latest wares. And Pitti’s Italics platform will lend its support to up-and-coming brands MSGM by Massimo Giorgetti, Aquazzura by Edgardo Osorio, and Stella Jean.
Other highlights include the debut of Tom Dixon’s project with Adidas; a new premium collection from G-Star Raw; an automobile collaboration between Italdesign Giugiaro, Cerruti, and the Woolmark company; and a fashion show for Andrea Pompilio’s collaborative range with Japanese sportswear label Onitsuka Tiger.
Napoleone conceded that Europe’s economic troubles have taken a toll. “More companies are suffering, and some of them decided not to exhibit,” he said, noting that about forty labels dropped out this season. But with about 1,010 participating brands, 370 of which are from outside Italy, visiting buyers and press will still have more than enough on their plates.
Damir Doma and Japanese label Kolor (designed by Junichi Abe) and are headed to Florence. Today, WWD announced that Doma (left) will head to the Spring 2014 Pitti W fair as its guest womenswear designer, while Kolor will feature at Pitti Uomo as the guest menswear designer. Last season’s visiting talents—Kenzo and Maison Kitsuné—will be hard acts to follow, what with the former’s food-market fashion show and the latter’s retro music spectacular. The Spring 2014 fairs are slotted to run from June 18 to June 21.
The more you look at a Peter Pilotto print, the less you understand it. That’s got to be at least part of the charm and the appeal of Pilotto and Christopher De Vos’ print-mad label, which showed its Resort collection here in Florence as the invited guests of Pitti W last night. Their venue was the thirteenth-century Palazzo Borghese, one of those incredible, noble residences that barely attract everday notice, as if they weren’t in short supply. (In fairness, here, they aren’t.) The clash of the august setting with Pilotto and De Vos’ ultramodern prints was, of course, intentional. It was one they played up by using the event to take visitors, all 2 million of them, it seemed, crammed into the sweltering manse, behind the curtain. Their prints come courtesy of the London creative director and tech wiz Jonny Lu, who created a sort of Photoshop algorithm to gin them up. “It’s like a digital kaleidoscope,” De Vos said last night. “It’s very dramatic,” Pilotto chimed in. “I don’t understand how it actually works. It’s all coded, like dot-dot-dot-dot.” The Resort prints come from the program, which is actually a generator that evolved new ones, on giant screens, as the night went on. They not only took over digital monitors but the interiors of the palazzo, too. Back splashes, walls, and rugs were done over in the angular, wild-colored designs, which gave the designers a few thoughts on possible expansion routes. “We are so excited about this idea as well,” Pilotto said of the decor. “It opens up so many possibilities: for interiors, dishes…” As models in the Resort collection stood in the grand ballroom and made slow loops, it made you dream of a world where Pilotto wasn’t only a dress-maker, but a world-creator. The palazzo, hot as it was, certainly made an appealing case study, for the designers as much as their fans. “We’re so spoiled,” Pilotto said. “We’ve been in this palazzo for three days.”