Style.com
Subscribe to Style Magazine
5 posts tagged "Polly Mellen"

R.I.P. Deborah Turbeville

-------

Bath House, Vogue 1975

News broke late last week that photographer Deborah Turbeville died in Manhattan on Thursday from lung cancer at the age of 81. Having served as a fit model for Claire McCardell and an editor at Harper’s Bazaar early in her career, Turbeville introduced a personal, heady, and refreshingly feminine aesthetic to the world of fashion photography when, with the support of Richard Avedon, she began seriously taking pictures in the 1970s. “My photographs are extremely feminine,” she said in an interview with Style.com last year. “But it doesn’t have to do with any kind of conviction on my part. It’s all instinctive and spontaneous with me. There is a certain approach that women have. They do get into some kind of inner thing more than the male photographers do.”

That approach landed her editorials in publications like Vogue, W, and The New York Times. She worked alongside icons such as Diane Arbus, Polly Mellen, and Isabella Blow and even got arrested with Bob Richardson during a shoot for Harper’s Bazaar in Texas. Her legacy will live on through her moody, sometimes controversial images, which have been inspiring editors, stylists, and fellow photographers for decades. Here, a look back at the legendary lenswoman’s most memorable shots.

Photo: Vogue 1975; Courtesy of Rizzoli

Did You Get The Memo? Diana Vreeland In Her Own Words

-------

Memos: The Vogue Years

“Our cover situation is drastic…We are on the verge of a drastic emergency.” So reads the first entry in the latest Diana Vreeland tome, Memos: The Vogue Years. Compiled by Vreeland’s grandson Alexander (the husband of Lisa Immordino Vreeland, who directed The Eye Has to Travel), the book features more than 250 of Vreeland’s infamous notes from her time at Vogue, which she’d dictate over the phone to her secretary while puffing on cigarettes in a wicker chair in the bathroom of her Park Avenue apartment. This, Alexander told us, was her preferred mode of communication. “She didn’t believe in meetings,” he said. His assertion is backed up by Diana’s memo to the Vogue team on page fifty-nine, in which she considers holding a meeting about the “controversial” topic of dress lengths, but resolves, “Usually, when we have meetings, we don’t get ideas and views from people.”

But it wasn’t just her staff whom she’d confront about everything from the importance of pearls and bangles to her annoyance with the mistreatment of her initials in her editor’s letter (above), to the necessity that Vogue‘s spreads “never, ever copy…any kind of coiffure that is reminiscent of the 30s, 40s, 50s,” via her rapier dictations. The book—which is available now from Rizzoli—also includes her correspondences with the likes of Richard (or Dick, as she called him) Avedon, Irving Penn (to whom she complains about lackluster tulips), Cecil Beaton, Cristobal Balenciaga (above), Halston, Veruschka, and beyond. Continue Reading “Did You Get The Memo? Diana Vreeland In Her Own Words” »

When Supers Stalked Spring Street

-------

This week’s New York magazine is the “Childhood in New York” issue, one close to my heart as someone who spent—and occasionally misspent—his childhood in the city. So did Zac Posen, who is among the natives who shared reminiscences with the mag of growing up downtown. New York then was a place where you could meet Polly Mellen at the Comme des Garçons store (still on Wooster Street!) just by admiring her shoes. It was also the days when Soho was good-old, bad-old Soho, where models lived and everyone else beelined. As Posen remembers it: “I would stare outside and watch all the supermodels living on Mercer and Greene Street and get a peek of Cindy Crawford or of Naomi Campbell. I remember when Madonna would go to the doctor, who was in the ground floor of my building. I mean, the street parted. She shut down Spring Street.”

Photo: Courtesy of Zac Posen/nymag.com

A Couture Comeback For YSL? And More Of Today’s Top Stories

-------

Could Yves Saint Laurent return to the world of couture? Hedi Slimane (pictured) says maybe. The new creative director revealed that haute couture is a possibility for the house, although not its primary concern. “The priority today is to revamp and redeploy the luxury ready-to-wear,” Slimane says in a recent interview. [Vogue Paris]

Christmas in July? Since it’s never too early to start thinking about the holidays, eBay has just announced plans for a limited-edition gift collection of men’s and women’s apparel, jewelry, electronics, and home decor, crafted by designers including Billy Reid, Chris Benz, and Steven Alan. [WWD]

He’s back—following a 12-year hiatus, Irish milliner Philip Treacy is making his return to the catwalk. The name behind the head-turning hats seen on British royalty will be showing at 2013 London fashion week alongside Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Anya Hindmarch, Richard Nicoll, and more. [Telegraph]

The latest incarnation of Batman’s alter ego, Bruce Wayne, may be his most fashionable yet. In Christopher Nolan’s highly anticipated The Dark Knight Rises, the iconic character’s wardrobe will consist of Giorgio Armani bespoke tailoring made specially for the film. Armani worked with costume designer Lindy Hemming on two suits, both of which have a customized label. [Vogue U.K.]

The second season of “Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis” is already in the works. Diane von Furstenberg will be the first in the hot seat on September 12, right in the midst of fashion week. Following von Furstenberg will be Marc Jacobs, stylist Polly Mellen, and Betsey Johnson. [WWD]

Photo: Rex USA

Who’s Up For The British Fashion Awards,
Who Wants Klaus Kinski Front-Row,
Who’s Rethinking Khakis, And More…

-------

The British Fashion Award nominations are in! For designer of the year, Phoebe Philo (pictured) faces off with Christopher Kane and Erdem Moralioglu; for designer brand of the year, it’s Burberry and Mulberry vs. Pringle of Scotland and Victoria Beckham; and for menswear designer of the year, Christopher Bailey, Margaret Howell, Paul Smith, and the Savile Row label E. Tautz. Meanwhile, Nick Knight, Nicola Formichetti, and Rankin are all up for the Isabella Blow award for fashion creator—at least two of whom are Gaga besties. Now who will she root for? [WWD]

Richard Chai, who nabbed the CFDA Swarovski Award for emerging menswear designer last year, has announced he’ll debut his capsule collection for Original Penguin at his runway show this season. [WWD]

Steven Alan’s memories of Dockers center on “a 1970s math professor.” Let’s hope he chooses a different inspiration when he designs a few styles for the historic khaki producer. [NYT]

You probably aren’t washing your jeans as thoroughly and lovingly as Levi’s creative director Carl Chiara. But if you want to start, clear a few hours, a bathtub, and a sachet of potpourri, and follow these 14 or so simple directions. [WSJ]

For the latest issue of Interview, Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière sits down with legendary editor and style maven Polly Mellen, who’s full of great reminiscences about working in fashion in the era of Vreeland. Vreeland, the late Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue editrix, apparently had navy blue hair—chic! [Interview]

And Hint Mag puts several New York designers to the Mad Libs test. Read on to learn who wants Klaus Kinski in his front row, who wants the naked and blood-spattered cast of True Blood in his, and who aspires to “create a duplicate of himself, and then again and again until the entire world was Scott Sternbergs.” (One guess on that one.) [Hint Mag]

Photo: Courtesy of Celine