7 posts tagged "Ports 1961"
Flipping an age-old adage on its glittering axis, designers have proposed diamonds—the shape, though, not the gemstone—as a Spring ’14 menswear motif. Both Ports 1961 and Giorgio Armani sent forth abstract, faded parallelograms—the former on a cream-colored bomber, the latter by means of spray-painted T-shirts. Yet the strongest use of the shape came on knitwear. Tomas Maier, for example, offered a heather-gray jumper with a repeating diamond pattern in his midcentury mash-up for Bottega Veneta (above, left). Donatella Versace paneled a navy, Medusa-buttoned cardigan in delicate rhombuses (above, center). And lastly, London’s Peter Jensen rendered a vermillion paragon on an ice-blue jumper, knit from ultrafine U.K. yarns (above, right). “There’s a whole playing card intarsia story in my collection,” Jensen told Style.com, noting his use of hearts, spades, and clubs, too. But the diamond may be his favorite. “It’s about time that diamonds become a boy’s best friend,” he said.
At this time last year, designers were busy making knee-length Bermudas and basketball shorts. This Resort season, they took things one step further, lowering hemlines on baggy, culotte-inspired trousers so they hit somewhere between mid-calf and just above the ankle. We noticed crisp white styles in the new lineups from Thakoon Addition, Ports 1961, Adam Lippes, and Sonia Rykiel (the latter two whipped them up in pliant leather and pleather, respectively). And while labels like Valentino and Roksanda Ilincic, among others, showed the fresh silhouette in a casual context, Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci made them evening-appropriate in black satin paired with a pair of killer ankle-strap sandals. Unless you’ve got stems like Joan Smalls’, we’d recommend rocking heels while test-driving this trend.
Printed pants have been making their mark on both the runways and the streets for several seasons now, and they don’t seem to be loosing any ground. In Paris during the Spring ’12 shows, we spotted editors and models wearing leopard-print jeans, and wild pants of all sorts have popped up aplenty in the pre-fall collections (see Michael Kors, Kelly Wearstler, Ports 1961, etc.) as well. We were excited when we heard that one of our favorite affordable denim lines, Mother, has just joined the print pant parade. For Spring, Lela Tillem Becker and Tim Kaeding have created two print versions of the popular The Looker pant—one with a vibrant paradise scene ($250, available at Nordstrom and ShopBop.com mid-March) and another with orange and coral cherries ($230, in stores mid-February).
Why not say it with flowers this holiday season? No, that doesn’t involve picking up the phone and calling FTD, but rather a visit to the Meatpacking District, where Torkil Gudnason will be exhibiting his intriguing (and gift-worthy) floral images at Ports 1961 from December 2 through January 2. (The opening party is this Thursday.) The Danish-born, Brooklyn-based photographer is well known for his fashion and beauty work, but in the Hot House series, he focuses on a different kind of hotness: flowers. It’s an obsession that invites comparison to some past photographic masters, most notably Robert Mapplethorpe, though Gudnason brings his own approach to the subject. “I translate them into my own fantasy world,” he says. “Making them simple and graphic.” And according to the lensman, the attraction goes beyond the fact that buds and stems, unlike some of his commercial subjects, perhaps, have no ego. “I’ve been doing plants forever,” he says. “I was always attracted to them because they reflect something man-made, ironically, [just as] anything that’s man-made has a reference in nature.” At $450 to $2,000, a picture will cost you more than a dozen roses, but it’s guaranteed never to wilt.
Ports 1961, 3 Ninth Avenue, NYC, (917) 475-1022.
With campaigns for Givenchy and MaxMara in the bag—not to mention an extensive list of bookings this season—Ford’s Lakshmi Menon is one of 2009′s hottest models. Style.com caught up with the stunner from South India on one of her many sleep-deprived days of New York fashion week.
Here, we track her hour by hour.
Backstage at Badgley Mischka, Menon carries on a digital dialogue with her agent via BlackBerry (an accessory as necessary to a model’s wardrobe as a chic carryall) while getting her makeup done. “It’s part of the job, staying calm,” she says. “The tough part is Paris fashion week, when you’re done with New York, London, Milan, and you’re completely worn out and people start pulling and tugging at your hair—that’s the real test.”
Menon slips into her first look—a black wool coat, elbow-length gloves, and black platforms. “I’m going to test the shoes out,” she announces. “Just to make sure they’re not going to slip off.” Cue professional sashay.
One of the first three girls in the lineup, Menon talks shop with
Georgina Stojilkovic and Sessilee Lopez. They debate hair extensions. Consensus: Horrible.
Show over, Lakshmi dons her street clothes—skinny jeans, black riding boots, and a T-shirt. “Quick and easy,” she says of the show. “That’s how I like most things to be. You prepare for almost two hours and then you’re on the runway for exactly 30 seconds and it’s over. That’s about as glamorous as it gets.”
En route to Derek Lam, Menon hits traffic. “I don’t think there are any parties this season,” she says. “Everyone’s broke.” Plunking away on her BlackBerry, she makes plans for dinner that night at an Indian restaurant with friends. “It’s difficult to do the party thing, anyway, especially when you’re working. I mean, you finish shows at 8 or 8:30 in the evening and you’re kind of tired, you know? I prefer to give my body a rest.”
Backstage at Derek Lam, a cramped labyrinth of rooms and corridors, Menon lands in the hands of famed makeup artist Tom Pecheux. “Tell them I’ll do the interview later,” Pecheux tells his PR rep, referring to a line of foreign journalists. “I have the golden girl here now.” He smiles adoringly in the makeup mirror at Lakshmi.
Menon has a few bites of a ham and mozzarella sandwich. “Feeling sleepy,” she says from her chair. Pecheux finishes her face and she’s led over to hair guru Orlando Pita. Menon’s locks are swept into a high ponytail, the better to show off the collection’s high collars.
Menon gets into her first look for Lam: A taupe double-knit dress with a single fox ring round the neck.