103 posts tagged "Prabal Gurung"
Since launching her line in 2010, New York-based designer Zana Bayne has been blurring the lines between clothing, accessories, and bondage-tinged harnesses at warp speed. Fresh off her New York fashion week debut, she jetted to Paris, her home away from home, to present her collection to buyers.
“The whole city is black and gold. When I got back to Paris, I thought, Oh, so that’s where this collection came from,” said the raven-haired designer of her Fall ’14 outing, Ornamentalist. The lineup was inspired by fifties-era images from L’Officiel and featured black and croc-embossed cowhide and gold embellishments.
Belts became bras, or were elongated to look like skirts, sometimes with extreme accentuated waists. Some pieces were adorned with tassels, big buckles, or extra rivets, and a lingerie feel was created via elastic details and garter belts.
While in Paris, Bayne welcomed Rei Kawakubo to her showroom—Bayne’s leathers are currently sold at Comme des Garçons in New York, and she’s preparing for a project with London’s Dover Street Market in the fall. Bayne’s wares, which are priced between $150 and $1,500, are also carried by such stockists as Opening Ceremony, Selfridges in London, and Paris’ Mise en Cage.
Bayne aims to clothe more than just fashion’s edgy avant-garde. In fact, the ambitious 25-year-old, who has crafted pieces for both Prabal Gurung and Lorde, is aiming for sartorial world domination. She is expanding her handbag line and splitting her collection into two: the handcrafted runway range Zana Bayne Collection, and Zana Bayne Originals, which will offer seasonless pieces from the archive.
“It’s not just for the cool kids. There are pieces for all sorts of silhouettes. There are garter belts, full-body pieces, and really delicate items as well,” she explained. “I like to make sure there’s a variety.” Bayne hopes there’s a little something in her collections for everyone—even for her dream client, Michelle Obama.
Yesterday we were intrigued by Prabal Gurung’s Instagram of a burning rose that mysteriously disappeared from his feed a few hours after it had been posted. The image was a teaser for his Spring ’14 campaign—starring Liya Kebede and lensed by Dan Jackson—which will be his first ads to be featured in print publications. Like many designers this season (if you’ll remember, Versace’s Lady Gaga ads broke via Mert Alas’ Instagram), Gurung whet his fans’ appetites by releasing a stream of tweets that slowly revealed the images. While the snaps’ forthcoming appearance in print marks a milestone for Gurung’s brand, his choice to hint at the campaign via social media further proves the Internet’s clout.
Bondage seems to have a widespread appeal these days—just ask leatherwear designer Zana Bayne. Based in New York, Bayne is known for her leather harnesses, corsets, and various other hard-edged accoutrements, and the likes of Prabal Gurung and singer Lorde both come to her for S&M-inspired accessories. “Whenever I work with Prabal, it’s really about the collection and how the harness can work as an accessory,” offered Bayne, who, having launched her line in 2010, just finished her fifth collaboration with Gurung—she was responsible for the layered PVC and leather harnesses that accentuate the cutout backs of Gurung’s white and pastel Spring dresses. Lorde, meanwhile, donned a leather halter piece in her recently released “Team” video.
For her own Spring ’14 collection, the lookbook for which debuts exclusively here, Bayne crafted a range of wares inspired by the coiled, arching lines of nature’s flora. “I looked at the shapes made by crawling vines on trellises and trees, and wanted to bring the collection to a softer, more feminine place,” said Bayne. Rosettes add a final, romantic flourish to the intricate face coverings, bustiers, and skirts in nude, black, and aubergine.
Somewhat ironically, the designer avoids creating harnesses that might limit movement. “It’s one of the reasons I tend to stay away from pieces that go onto the legs,” said Bayne. “If you can’t move in it, then I don’t think you should wear it.”
Zana Bayne is currently carried at Opening Ceremony, Oak, Lane Crawford, and Coco de Mer, and will soon be available at Selfridges and New York’s Dover Street Market. Her designs are also available online at www.zanabayne.com. Prices range from $20 to $1,125.