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August 23 2014

styledotcom Are designers running out of ideas? Or are straightforward clothes a sign of times? stylem.ag/1uSNUd5 via @CathyHorynNYT

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113 posts tagged "Prabal Gurung"

A New Class Toasts Its Fashion Week Benefactor

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You might expect otherwise from a winery, but there are no booze-goggles at Ecco Domani: The California-based vintner has a long history of clear-eyed perceptiveness about young fashion talent. Its Fashion Foundation awards have been supporting emerging designers with much needed grant money for years, and many of the industry’s now established names—Derek Lam, Alexander Wang, and Proenza Schouler among them—have benefited from its largesse.

This year’s crop of winners (for womenswear, Bibhu Mohapatra, Mandy Coon, Marcia Patmos, and Maayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker for their line The Lake & Stars; for menswear, Kyle Fitzgibbons for Native Son; for accessories, Pamela Love; and for sustainable design, Tara St. James for Study NY) was on hand to celebrate last night, along with alumni like Lam, Erin Fetherston, John Patrick, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs, and editors and style setters like Julie Gilhart and Sally Singer. One of last year’s winners, Prabal Gurung, presented Bibhu Mohapatra (above, with Lam) with his award. (“His love and my love for Bollywood has cemented our friendship,” the Nepal-born Gurung, who worked for the Indian designer Manish Arora after graduating from New Delhi’s National Institute of Fashion, confided.)

“It has really pumped me with such a rush,” Mohapatra said of his latest accolade. “This award not only gave me confidence, but it also gave me some extra funding to make my product that much better.”

Pressed for advice to the young designers, Gurung modestly demurred. “I am still in the process of rising,” he said, “and I don’t think I am in the position of giving advice to anyone. What I can say is be true to yourself and trust your instincts because you have to just believe in yourself.”

Photo: Ryan McCune

FGI Catches A Few Rising Stars

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“At one point in my career, I had $98, a mattress, and a floor,” Norma Kamali told us at the Fashion Group International’s 14th Annual Rising Star Awards luncheon, hosted by Condé Nast Digital editorial director Jamie Pallot. “There’s always going to be something that tests your ability, so get past it and then get over it.”

Kamali, the keynote speaker at the Cipriani 42nd Street event, offered similar words of wisdom to an audience that included Catherine Malandrino, Prabal Gurung, Eddie Borgo, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Maria Cornejo, and Lauren Bush, and rising stars Fabiola Arias and Bradley Scott Reisman (who tied for the womenswear award), and Loris Diran (who won for men’s). “To have this fabulous designer hand you the torch,” enthused Arias after Malandrino presented her with the trophy, “it’s just crazy.”

After a little carousing and a little networking—”I am leaving with a pocket full of business cards and a pocket full of promises,” Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo said—the designers, editors, and retailers reluctantly prepared to brave the snow and continue the workday. Well, most did. They may not have won the afternoon’s award, but the menswear nominees from Moods of Norway were still feeling celebratory. “We want to do Shirley Temple body shots and then go build a snowman,” designer Stefan Dahlkvist said. “Are you in?”

The Manish Arora Recipe:
Tears And Tandoori

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Manish Arora works between New Delhi and Paris, but that’s been no deterrent in his current mini-takeover of Mercer Street. You can see his unmistakable kaleidoscopic and cartoony visual stamp in the windows of the Nespresso store at the corner of Prince Street, and if you wander south, you’ll now stumble upon his new jewelry collection with Swarovski at the Crystallized store between Spring and Broome. Gathered last night to celebrate the latter was an impressive crowd of subcontinental talents: director Mira Nair, actor-cum-jeweler Waris Ahluwalia, and designers Bibhu Mohaptra, Prabal Gurung, and Rachel Roy.

“I remember his first show,” said Gurung (left, with the designer), who worked for Arora right after graduating from New Delhi’s National Institute of Fashion. “It was the Hotel Parth. There wasn’t a single person who wasn’t crying during the finale.”

“There’s always a lot of crying at my shows,” laughed Arora. “I don’t know why.”

“People had been waiting for him to do his own stuff,” Gurung continued. “When he launched, everything came free. The models did it for free. The only thing he paid for was the clothes. I remember there was a model eating a chicken tandoori.” On the runway? Yes.

Not that Arora’s shows have mellowed much in the intervening 14 years. Recall the eye-popping Spring 2011 dress topped with a sculpted gold ribcage worn recently by Gaga-esque fashion savant Nicki Minaj. Arora’s Swarovski pieces—a series of heart-shaped crystal pendants—are relatively understated but no less stylish. At any rate, fashion’s romance with Arora may further flourish if the rumors that he’s up to helm Paco Rabanne have any truth. To that end, Arora issued no denials. We’ll take that as a strong maybe.

Photo: Chance Yeh / PatrickMcMullan.com

Yea, Nay, Or Eh? Primary Colors At The BIFAs

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Amid the usual sea of award-show black, two actresses stood out at the British Independent Film Awards last night: Carey Mulligan (left, in Prabal Gurung, with a Roger Vivier clutch) and Rosamund Pike (right, in Vionnet and Charlotte Olympia heels). The jolt of primary colors livened up what might otherwise have been a duller fête, and made the continuing case for flashing brights. Over on this side of the Atlantic, designers have been making it, too. At Michael Kors’ pre-fall appointments last week, Kors showed a collection of wearable separates in an electric palette of fire-engine red and Yves Klein blue, offset with black and white (center). What do you think? Who wore it best at the BIFAs? And will you be bold with strong color this season?

Photos: Rex / Rex USA (Mulligan, Pike); Courtesy of Michael Kors (Kors)

Quiet Riot

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Unis’ Eunice Lee isn’t one to shout. The Parsons-trained menswear designer—one of the few visible women steadfastly working in the men’s game—makes clothes that are understated and unbranded. “Even the fit is really quiet,” she’s said. So despite being carried by stores like Barneys, Bloomingdale’s, and Fred Segal, holding court in her own Elizabeth Street boutique, and counting the likes of Jake Gyllenhaal as admirers, she’s mostly flown under the radar.

The past year has seen that change somewhat, with her nomination for GQ‘s Best New Menswear Designer award this year. But though Unis may be many things, “new” isn’t one of them. The label celebrated its tenth anniversary this year, and toasted the occasion with a rager at New York’s Dominion over the weekend. “It’s crazy how time flies—so hard to believe it’s already been ten years,” Lee said with a shrug. Prabal Gurung, Tim Hamilton, Humberto Leon, and half of the men’s editors and stylists in New York—many clad in Unis chinos—came out, as did a surprise guest: Mos (the artist formerly known as Mos Def, pictured, with Lee). The rapper-turned-actor is a longtime fan of the label and, Lee confides, a huge fan of those chinos. Fresh from a performance at Lincoln Center, where he’s starring in the John Guare play A Free Man of Color, he paused the raucous dancing with a serenade, “The Way You Look Tonight.”

Photo: Courtesy of Unis