158 posts tagged "Prada"
World of Interiors: Dover Street Market New York’s Designers on the Spaces They Designed for the New York Megastore
Tomorrow, Dover Street Market in New York opens its doors to the public (including that very committed member of the public who has been camped out in a pup tent on the corner, reportedly for days, waiting). The multibrand store, owned by Comme des Garçons, stocks both the full range of Comme des Garçons labels (which are many), and lines that Rei Kawakubo and her team select and buy for the store—with the sphinx-like Kawakubo often doing the buys herself.
The concept of shop-in-shops at multibrand retailers is nothing new, and many department stores have concessions piloted by individual designers and labels. But few give so much freedom to so many as Dover Street Market. (“We don’t go in for brainstorming,” CdG CEO Adrian Joffe put it dryly to Style.com last year) The result is that walking through the seven stories of New York’s Dover Street Market—or riding up in the glass elevator that was commissioned for the space—is a varied, eye-popping, and often surreal experience. Brands are grouped together in unlikely arrangements, decided by Kawakubo. On the seventh floor, Prada sits next to the skate brand Supreme, the Japanese line Visvim, and near André Walker, the cult designer coaxed out of semi-retirement to design a new collection for the store. And because most if not all of the labels are given license to design their own spaces and fixtures, going from one to the next, even over a distance of only a few feet, can feel like traveling between dimensions or falling down the proverbial rabbit hole. (This is not even to take into account the stairway, designed by the architects Arakawa and Gins, which somewhat resembles a birth canal and is reputed, according to a Comme representative, “to reverse your destiny.”) And this is before you account for the artworks commissioned from the space, including three artist-designed pillars that evolve as they cut through the seven floors, a sound art installation, a mural and more.
The result is a store that is completely unlike all of the existing shopping experiences in New York. But for every person disoriented by the experience, there is likely to be another delighted by the creative chaos. “It’s not overthought. I feel sometime shopping environments can be overcalculated—it’s nearly forced, duty-free luxury,” said Jonathan Anderson, who created the first branded space he’s ever done in the history of his J.W. Anderson label for the store. “I don’t think luxury has to be determined in that way. I think luxury is about the arrangement of ideas, not necessarily the finish.”
Style.com spoke with several designers who created their own spaces—and in many cases, exclusive product—for Dover Street Market New York.
Dover Street Market New York opens tomorrow at 160 Lexington Avenue, NYC.
Anderson, the London-based designer who was recently named creative director of Loewe, was inspired to build his space out of children’s foam-rubber play blocks, all in a shade somewhere between sky and Yves Klein blue. He’d seen children playing with them in a park in Venice, where he’d just returned from his first vacation in seven years when Joffe asked him to do a space on DSMNY’s fifth floor. “They’re from America, weirdly,” he said. “The company did them exclusively in different shapes for us. It was quite fun, actually.”
Dover Street has been a longtime patron of Anderson’s collections, which are also stocked in its London and Ginza, Tokyo, stores. Kawakubo herself selects the pieces to carry which often, thanks to her off-kilter eye, end up being exclusive to DSM. “I always like watching her edit. I love her commitment to fashion, buying from other brands. You have to be on a very different plane to able to do that,” he said. “I think that’s what’s so exciting about the relationship between Dover Street and Comme des Garçons. I think it’s such an interesting exercise, and that’s why there’s no compromise in the buy, there’s no compromise in the store shopping experience.”
“Supreme is a hard brand for people to categorize,” said founder James Jebbia. “DSM does a great job at taking the best brands in the world and mixing them in their store without categorizing them.”
All that is to say, Dover Street let Supreme be Supreme: graphic, in your face and immediate. Jebbia commissioned Weirdo Dave (né Dave Sandey, but also known as Fuck This Life) to create a large backdrop mural of found images, which has a Tumblr-ish spark. (A few yards away hangs Visvim’s cozy hanging quilts.) How much interaction did Kawakubo have with the space? “Not much, really,” Jebbia said. “Rei let us design the space how we wanted, but she looks at and approves every detail. If she didn’t like something, she certainly would have told us.”
Need proof that fashion has become increasingly seasonless? Look no further than the Spring runways. Despite the spring season, there was no shortage of statement-making furs. Miuccia Prada sent out vibrant intarsia furs printed with trompe l’oeil bras and female visages, while Fendi’s Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi whipped up shaved-mink toppers that weigh mere grams, as well as fuzzy ear cuffs, handbags, and playful “buggies” charms. Elsewhere, pelts were incorporated into accessories like Michael Kors’ twisted cashmere shrugs backed in sable, and Burberry Prorsum’s shaggy clutches. Showing fur alongside summery dresses makes sense, given these collections hit stores in February, but then you have a designer like Francisco Costa, who threw that reasoning out the window by whipping up a pale lilac shearling for his latest Calvin Klein Collection Pre-Fall outing. Even if it delivers in May, that coat was covetable enough to buy now and wear later.
Last night at Prada’s Soho store, for an all-too-brief eight minutes, industry insiders sipped cucumber gimlets and disappeared into the wondrous world of Wes Anderson’s latest vision. The downtown fete celebrated the premiere of Anderson’s short film, Castello Cavalcanti, a playful, darkly saturated jaunt that casts Jason Schwartzman as a fifties Prada-outfitted race car driver. Italian actress and director Giada Colagrande stars alongside Schwartzman in the flick, which originally debuted at the Rome Film Festival in November.
“Wes is a very precise, clear-minded director—you can tell from his movies!” commented Colgrande from the stairs of Prada’s rather impressive in-store screening room. “So it was great fun. He tells you exactly what to do, how to do it, and I found myself copying him exactly.”
It seems that copying Anderson (who, it should be noted, collaborated with Prada and Roman Coppola earlier this year on a short for the brand’s Candy L’Eau perfume, which starred Léa Seydoux) served the cast well. The audience consensus was that the oh-so-short film was just that—quite quick and a tease for more, not to mention an enticing complement to Miuccia’s jewel-toned, street art-heavy Spring ’14 collection, whose arrival we look forward to just as much as Anderson’s next project, the forthcoming full-length The Grand Budapest Hotel. “Prada and Miu Miu really marry [their] ideas with those of the author—or in this case, the director,” concluded Colagrande. “I think that’s why they make such wonderful projects all the time.”
Oh, the weather outside is frightful…but bright furs are so delightful. Real or faux, furs in electric hues are the savviest way to keep warm this season. However, if you’re questioning the life span of a candy-colored fur bag, take note: This isn’t just a winter trend. Between the expressionist coats at Prada and the fuzzy bags, jewelry, and Buggies at Fendi, bold fur had a major warm-weather moment on the Spring ’14 runways. Go big in a nearly neon coat, or add just a hint of fluff with a covetable key chain. Shop all of our favorite colorful pieces by 3.1 Phillip Lim, Fendi, Topshop, and more, below.
1. Topshop collarless faux-fur coat, $170, available at topshop.com
2. 3.1 Phillip Lim Ryder multi-fur shoulder bag, $1,350, available at avenue32.com
3. Albertus Swanepoel fur bomb cap, $290, available at barneys.com
4) Fendi textured-leather-and-fox monster bag charm, $580, available at net-a-porter.com
5. Nicholas Kirkwood mink-trimmed leather sandals, $1,777, available at mytheresa.com
Last week, Amazon CEO Jeff Bezos went on 60 Minutes to announce that the online-shopping behemoth has an exciting new project in the works: delivery drones. According to Bezos, the mini drones, or “octocopters,” won’t be ready for action until 2017 or 2018. However, he claimed that once they’re cleared for takeoff, Amazon’s aircrafts will be able to send customers anything from electric razors to Prada shades in under thirty minutes. (Though we have to wonder: In most cases, wouldn’t it just be easier to pry yourself from the keypad and head to the store?). Bloomberg, however, reports that John Donahoe—the CEO of Amazon competitor eBay—thinks the whole plan is a little silly. “We’re not really focusing on long-term fantasies,” he told Bloomberg Television. “We’re working on things that will change consumers’ experiences today.” The verdict is still out on whether Donahoe has a better grasp on reality than Bezos, or if he’s just a little jealous that he didn’t come up with delivery drones first. Either way, Net-a-porter‘s got them both beat—last summer, the retailer teamed with The Standard to offer its Hamptons customers same-day delivery via swanky seaplanes.