6 posts tagged "Pre-fall"
Italo Zucchelli, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection’s menswear, was unexpectedly enthusiastic about a subject in fashion—at least in men’s fashion—that most prefer to ignore: pre-collections. “It’s kind of new for men,” Zucchelli said. Not long ago, the situation was much the same for womenswear: Pre-collections were commercial lines, meant to bolster store buys (in practice, they often make up to 70 percent, or more, of many retailers’ annual purchases) and distill the themes of the mainline “editorial” collections presented on the runway into more wearable, salable form. But anyone reading Style.com over the past few years has seen pre-collections boom, often into runway shows of their own. (See our complete coverage if you disbelieve.)
ould the same happen for menswear? Zucchelli, for one, makes such a thing seem possible. (His sales, he reports, are split fifty-fifty between pre-collections and Spring and Fall collections.) “The pre-collections became bigger and bigger,” he said. “Now I’m injecting fashion.” The Pre-Fall 2014 collection, debuting here, makes the point. The airy palette of the Spring ’14 collection, inspired in part by the work of James Turrell, turned darker, but blue remained dominant. Makes sense: Navy is a color no man is afraid to buy. But Zucchelli made good on his promise of more fashion in this traditionally sales-friendly offering. A bonded flannel car coat, easy and approachable, was spliced together with a panel of contrast fabric. “Techy” was Zucchelli’s word for it. That future-leaning, technological bent, which has characterized many of his collections for the label, was evident throughout: In the moire jacquard motif on suits and jackets, the slash details worked into the seams of tailored garments, and, most of all, the printed graphic sweatshirts and tees that the designer said were already attracting significant sales attention. They featured blue-tinted aerial illustrations of one of the world’s techiest cities: Tokyo.
“I went to Atacama and Patagonia and fell in love with the atmosphere that the scenario and silence bring,” designer Pedro Lourenço tells Style.com of the locales that inspired the eye-catching prints in his recent pre-fall collection. “The colors, textures, and emptiness are amazing.”
Lourenço artfully transferred the natural beauty of Patagonia into something more urban, using the digital prints on sleeveless shells and dresses. “I wanted to create windows on the woman’s body so that the landscape could be seen through them,” he says of the process.
When we first laid eyes on Lourenço’s tropical Resort prints by artist Lelli de Orleans e Bragança back in June, we fell in love, as have his clients—the collection is selling quite well at Barneys. It’s safe to assume this round will be no different when it hits stores. As for what’s ahead, he revealed, “The prints for the Fall collection will be done in collaboration with a contemporary artist based in New York. They will be less figurative, more abstract.” Until then, stay tuned.
At the Style.com offices, we have been busy seeing a lot of pre-fall collections, and although it’s one of our busiest times of the year, it’s also one of our favorites. We get to see the designers in a low-key environment, talk to everyone face to face, and discuss what’s ahead for Fall. If the pre-fall accessories (I’ve been especially focused on rings and earrings lately) are any indication, expect a jolt of seriously cool jewelry ahead.
At Givenchy, the pale gold horn earrings looked so tricky, I had to ask the model to take them off so I could see how they worked. Riccardo Tisci pointed out that the earrings were originally from his menswear collection and then he brought them into the women’s line. (The earrings were also a part of his Spring 2012 runway show, but the models had their hair down so they went unnoticed.) The good news: They are about to hit stores. The bad news: As you might know, most Givenchy pieces get sold out even before they are in stores. I already reserved mine. Other things I would like to put on hold are the Lucite cameos (a trend we noticed this summer) at Lanvin, which popped up on necklaces with black ribbon or as an unexpected brooch, and the pinky ring (pictured) at Nina Ricci, which is subtle but has refreshing details.
After winning a large chunk of change from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Prabal Gurung decided it only seemed natural to launch a pre-fall collection.
“You have to do all four seasons at this point,” he says of his first pre-fall collection, debuting exclusively here on Style.com in this video made during his lookbook shoot with photographer Dan Martensen, who has worked with the likes of i-D, The New York Times, and The Last Magazine. “It’s a huge opportunity to introduce new categories and more sportswear pieces—it’s an incredibly important season.”
Here, Gurung’s girls Alana Zimmer, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Kate King, and Ming Xi (all have walked in his shows) model his latest efforts. “With this collection, I developed a particular print that I had taken a picture of. I had this printmaker in London that I was working with and it looks like a kaleidoscope,” Gurung tells Style.com, in between meticulously pintucking Zimmer’s dress and picking out the perfect pair of Linda Farrow shades with his longtime stylist, Tiina Laakkonen, as Rihanna blasts from the stereo in the background. “We worked to develop the image more and more and more. I didn’t want it to have the same floral idea of my Spring collection—if you look, it’s pretty from afar, but up close, it’s a little hard.” The kaleidoscope print appears throughout the collection, on featherweight T-shirts (his first), Lurex and cashmere jacquard knits, and multiple silk wool or silk georgette pieces in rich green and jet black.
A pre-fall collection isn’t the only new addition to his growing list of accomplishments—Gurung has been hard at work with his new duties as chief designer for ICB, a label that hasn’t been sold in the States for nearly a decade. “The design integrity, aesthetic, and what I believe in will be the same,” he says of his vision for the new ICB collection. “Obviously I come from the American couture background, but there’s also a side of me that lives in the East Village, you know? It will reflect that a little bit more, but not in an obvious East Village way; this will have more grit.”
In 2011, vibrant colors made their bold return to the runways. While the Spring ’12 and pre-fall collections have shown no sign of the color trend disappearing, black and white is popping up in a big way. Designers including Monique Lhuillier, Maria Cornejo, and Phillip Lim all worked the classic color combo into their pre-fall collections. Karl Lagerfeld even managed to make black and white looks a centerpiece of his Indian-inspired Chanel presentation. (Black and white might be quintessentially Coco, but in Bombay, that’s not so much the case.) As pre-fall collections continue to roll out, we’ll be watching to see if the trend carries on.