9 posts tagged "Pre-fall"
Sally LaPointe has been stretching her business legs recently. In the past six months, she’s upgraded to a larger studio, expanded her design team, and dipped her toes into the Resort market with a small capsule. “We didn’t expect Resort to do so well, and it did really well,” LaPointe told Style.com. The surprising success of that collection (Bergdorf placed several reorders) triggered her to launch Pre-Fall with a tight collection of signature items that are admittedly more wearable than the designer’s directional runway fare. “We’re starting to know who our customer is, more and more, and it’s a big relief. She’s growing up and is more streamlined now,” said LaPointe at a preview of the new lineup, which debuts here on Style.com. Core pieces included recognizable body-con sheath dresses featuring strong shoulders and sharp seaming. While LaPointe herself prefers all-black everything, retailers have reportedly been going for the plum-colored number with a toothsome torso cutout and open back, which was cut from an embossed silk jacquard that had a nice stretch to it. Elsewhere, LaPointe riffed on tuxedos with a smart pair of peplum trousers (she is planning to wear them to her Fall ’14 show in a few weeks), as well as a tailored topcoat done in wool cashmere that boasted croc-stamped leather lapels. Speaking of, outerwear has always been one of LaPointe’s strong suits, and another highlight here was a cropped, swingy camel jacket with leather panels. All in all, we’d say LaPointe’s Pre-Fall trial was a success worth repeating.
“Polar Vortex” was the phrase on everyone’s blistered lips this week during a bitter cold spell that sent most of the U.S. into a deep freeze. As we learned firsthand while trudging to and from appointments on the city’s icy sidewalks, even the most thermodynamic winter coat (plus a hat and gloves) wasn’t enough for bone-chilling temperatures like these. Did designers divine this subzero weather? The new Pre-Fall collections offer plenty of fresh ideas for bundling up in style. Blanket dressing, in particular, has emerged as one of the season’s most welcome trends. Labels including Acne Studios, Chloé, Vionnet, and Chanel featured soft wraps made for swaddling. For the finale at his Burberry Prorsum menswear show in London yesterday, Christopher Bailey draped heritage plaid blankets over each model’s left shoulder. Geraldo da Conceicao at Sonia Rykiel, meanwhile, struck a similar cozy note with piled-on sweaters draped around the neck like stoles.
If nothing else, the confluence of the Polar Vortex and Pre-Fall presentations in New York has given us the chance to see the inventive ways in which fashion editors and designers choose to face down slippery sidewalks and subzero temperatures. Stylist Camilla Nickerson, for example, bypassed winter boots for nubby oatmeal socks and a pair of black-and-burgundy open-toed flats from Céline’s Resort ’14 lineup, crushing the notion that socks-and-sandals is a faux pas. Definitely cozy-chic, but we’re guessing she wasn’t planning on walking too many blocks to her next appointment. Elle‘s Samira Nasr, meanwhile, braved New York’s menacing gray puddles in a pair of pristine white moccasin boots, and WSJ. editor-in-chief Kristina O’Neill kept her calves above freezing with a pair of charcoal leg warmers, which she pulled over her black skinny jeans. However, the most-thoroughly-bundled award has to go to The Row’s Mary-Kate Olsen. The designer walked editors around her showroom while wearing a navy shearling coat with a slick fur collar. She and sister Ashley’s Greenwich Street headquarters weren’t exactly without heat, but they are only a block from the very chilly Hudson, and you never know when a river-effect draft might blow through. But perhaps the look that best sums up our schizophrenic weather (55 degrees on Monday, 12 degrees on Tuesday) was the one Jamie Bochert donned for the Givenchy Pre-Fall lookbook: open-toed sandals and a full-on fur.
Italo Zucchelli, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection’s menswear, was unexpectedly enthusiastic about a subject in fashion—at least in men’s fashion—that most prefer to ignore: pre-collections. “It’s kind of new for men,” Zucchelli said. Not long ago, the situation was much the same for womenswear: Pre-collections were commercial lines, meant to bolster store buys (in practice, they often make up to 70 percent, or more, of many retailers’ annual purchases) and distill the themes of the mainline “editorial” collections presented on the runway into more wearable, salable form. But anyone reading Style.com over the past few years has seen pre-collections boom, often into runway shows of their own. (See our complete coverage if you disbelieve.)
ould the same happen for menswear? Zucchelli, for one, makes such a thing seem possible. (His sales, he reports, are split fifty-fifty between pre-collections and Spring and Fall collections.) “The pre-collections became bigger and bigger,” he said. “Now I’m injecting fashion.” The Pre-Fall 2014 collection, debuting here, makes the point. The airy palette of the Spring ’14 collection, inspired in part by the work of James Turrell, turned darker, but blue remained dominant. Makes sense: Navy is a color no man is afraid to buy. But Zucchelli made good on his promise of more fashion in this traditionally sales-friendly offering. A bonded flannel car coat, easy and approachable, was spliced together with a panel of contrast fabric. “Techy” was Zucchelli’s word for it. That future-leaning, technological bent, which has characterized many of his collections for the label, was evident throughout: In the moire jacquard motif on suits and jackets, the slash details worked into the seams of tailored garments, and, most of all, the printed graphic sweatshirts and tees that the designer said were already attracting significant sales attention. They featured blue-tinted aerial illustrations of one of the world’s techiest cities: Tokyo.
“I went to Atacama and Patagonia and fell in love with the atmosphere that the scenario and silence bring,” designer Pedro Lourenço tells Style.com of the locales that inspired the eye-catching prints in his recent pre-fall collection. “The colors, textures, and emptiness are amazing.”
Lourenço artfully transferred the natural beauty of Patagonia into something more urban, using the digital prints on sleeveless shells and dresses. “I wanted to create windows on the woman’s body so that the landscape could be seen through them,” he says of the process.
When we first laid eyes on Lourenço’s tropical Resort prints by artist Lelli de Orleans e Bragança back in June, we fell in love, as have his clients—the collection is selling quite well at Barneys. It’s safe to assume this round will be no different when it hits stores. As for what’s ahead, he revealed, “The prints for the Fall collection will be done in collaboration with a contemporary artist based in New York. They will be less figurative, more abstract.” Until then, stay tuned.