153 posts tagged "Proenza Schouler"
“There’s always a mixed response in emotion,” explained CFDA CEO Steven Kolb. “A few cried, a few screamed, and one brand was a bit too cool…they admitted that they were just shocked. But they’re so excited tonight.” Kolb was talking about his experience calling the 2014 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists to give them the good news yesterday morning, an honor that is reserved for him after he and the likes of Diane von Furstenberg, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville of Rag & Bone, Jenna Lyons, and others select the ten finalists for the year’s competition. Past winners include Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, and last year’s Public School, who announced the ten new finalists last night at the still-under-construction Westfield World Trade Center (hard hats were given out as parting gifts).
“It’s been a hell of a year for us—we’re still riding it and we’re still excited from winning Vogue Fashion Fund last year,” Public School’s Maxwell Osborne told Style.com. “This is a whole new feeling for us, because we’re just so young and still trying to learn and grow ourselves and already passing off the torch. It feels really good—it means there’s going to be more of a future to come.”
That bright future includes finalists Paul Andrew; milliner Gigi Burris; Simon Miller’s Daniel Corrigan and Jake Sargent; Edie Parker’s Brett Heyman; Eva Fehren’s Eva Zuckerman; Wes Gordon; Tanya Taylor; Ryan Roche; Grey Ant’s Natalie Levy and Grant Krajecki; and Orley‘s Matthew Orley, Alex Orley, and Samantha Florence. Each brand will design a special runway collection under the advisement of the CFDA committee before the winner is selected on November 3.
The feeling among the group seemed to be one of anxious excitement. “It’s been a really long process, a long process of self-reflection,” said Alex Orley of Orley. “Today, we sort of were waiting with bated breath for a call, and Steven called us, and I think I just went white. I’m very excited—nervous, but just really excited.” Wes Gordon agreed: “So exciting! Steven called today and kind of tricked me a little bit—he said it like he was calling with bad news. It’s just such a thrill. I’m already so stressed and scared! In two weeks we have to do our big meeting with the judges. It’s like, ‘Boom! It’s here!’”
“The name comes from the idea that we all have a sexual résumé,” explained Christina Viviani, the designer behind Curriculum Vitae, a new lingerie line launching this Thursday at Barneys, with arrivals at Colette, 10 Corso Como, Moda Operandi, and more to follow. The Detroit-raised designer spent ten years polishing her skills at Donna Karan and Adrienne Vittadini before moving into the realm of intimates last year. “No one was really doing a cooler, younger version of Kiki,” she explained. “I’m dressing for myself and designing for myself—for the downtown girl.”
The line is made up of New York-manufactured below-14th basics: street-influenced racer tanks in black silk with matching silk boxers; simple mesh bikini bottoms; and sheer, white-lace onesies with materials sourced from Italy and Japan. An exclusive first look at the collection, which is priced between $30 and $400 debuts here. “We use a lot of rose-gold hardware, bodysuits with a snap, sleep sets with cutouts on the back…They’re kind of luxury-quality essentials,” noted Viviani of the clean, Bowery-with-a-hint-of-vamp wares. They’re for a girl “with more of an edge—she’s wearing [the line] with her Alexander Wang, with Proenza,” said the designer.
That’s not to say the pieces don’t hold classic appeal. “I’m really inspired by a lot of vintage references and the way construction was made back then. I want to take that and make it modern,” said Viviani, who grew up watching black-and-white favorites (“The movie Pillow Talk with Doris Day was a really big thing”) with her grandparents before moving to New York to study at FIT at 17.
CV also has a lifestyle component: Viviani traveled the world meeting with high-end sex toy artisans before curating a collection of globally sourced and personally designed sex accessories. “That was really fun—and a big learning curve,” said Viviani, who touched down in Berlin, L.A., Las Vegas, and San Francisco on the way. “Meeting different people and learning the art behind sensuality—you go into these conventions at 9 a.m. and it’s like, be awake!” CV will sell toys on its site, as well as discreet (you could hardly tell what they were if you didn’t look twice) pleasure kits in the rooms of the Chateau Marmont, Standard Hotels, and the Mercer, among others. “Three condoms, lube, and a vibrator…that’s all you really need in a hotel room. Let’s be honest,” she joked.
“I think I’m just excited for it to launch and kind of understand the customer more and see the reaction,” mused Viviani. “It’s kind of like being an artist and showing your work in a gallery for the first time.”
We’re expecting an extra-hot and humid New York summer, so there’s no time like the present to get a few vacations on the books. What are we packing for the July 4th holiday? A whole lot of tie-dye, one of our favorite trends this season. When done in watery blue hues, the laid-back print makes us feel cooler already. From elevated T-shirts to statement sandals, the trend practically demands a beachy locale, and we’re happy to oblige. Shop our favorite pieces by Madewell, J.Crew, Proenza Schouler, and more, below.
1. Proenza Schouler tie-dye cotton-jersey T-shirt, $280, available at barneys.com
2. Anya Hindmarch Nevis printed satin and leather tote, $495, available at net-a-porter.com
3. Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray, $26, available at sephora.com
4. Madewell tie-dye string bikini bottom, $35, available at madewell.com
5. J.Crew Leila tie-dye ankle-wrap sandals, $148, available at jcrew.com
In this week’s Look of the Day polls, we shared which trends are on our minds—then asked you to play favorites. On Monday, we called out the best asymmetrical looks from Resort ’15. Who would have guessed Stella McCartney, Reed Krakoff, and Proenza Schouler (among countless others) would all bring back the slashed hemline? McCartney’s winning look, a floaty cutout dress from her Elizabeth Street garden party, looked especially fresh with mixed prints and sky-high platforms. Later in the week, we dedicated Wednesday’s poll to our model of the moment, Jamie Bochert. No doubt you’re seeing her face everywhere these days, from The Line’s new lookbook to the CFDA Awards red carpet, where she stood out among a sea of ball gowns. Stella McCartney won again on Thursday for her well-executed paisley prints—though Emily Blunt’s vibrant Osman dress was a close second. And on Friday, we wished Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen a happy 28th birthday with a roundup of their best looks of late (which was no easy task). Their understated gowns at this year’s Charles James: Beyond Fashion Met Gala naturally took home first prize. Click here to see all of this week’s results, and be sure to check back every day to vote for our latest discoveries.
News broke this morning that 2014 CFDA Womenswear Award nominee and budding master of sensual style Joseph Altuzarra is the latest designer to team up on a capsule with Target. He follows in the footsteps of brands like Proenza Schouler, Prabal Gurung, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and, most recently, Peter Pilotto. “It just felt like the right moment,” offered Altuzarra when asked why he signed on to create the almost fifty-piece collection of ready-to-wear, lingerie, and accessories, which will hit Target stores, the retailer’s website, and Net-a-Porter on September 14. “I’m so focused on building the Altuzarra universe in the luxury market, but the opportunity to bring my world to a larger audience is really exciting,” added the designer, who secured an investment from Kering last year.
Don’t expect the forthcoming capsule to be a greatest-hits range—Altuzarra thinks that would be downright rude. “I didn’t want this collection to just feel like a rehash of things that we’ve done before. That wouldn’t be fair to the Target customer—almost like I didn’t put any effort into it. And it wouldn’t be fair to the Altuzarra customer who might want to buy something new and interesting that we’re not doing for our own line.” Inspired by a world traveler jetting off to far-flung destinations like Paris, Morocco, Tokyo, and Mongolia, the range will include hyper-tailored peplum jackets, pencil skirts, and trenchcoats, all with special details, like embroidery. “I didn’t want to assume that because we were doing a collection with Target that it suddenly had to be a much less interesting product. The collection has to stand on its own, and it is details, volume, and tailoring that make a piece feel rich and special.” The fabrics, too, will lend a luxury feel to the lineup—satin georgette, Swiss dot, slinky jersey, faux fur and leather, jacquard, velveteen, and stretch twill are used throughout.
Mass-market collaborations have done wonders for many an emerging brand, introducing the labels to an entire new demographic outside of the fashion (and shopping) elite. But still, there is always the question of whether a team-up of this kind can dilute a luxury brand. And though the collection is being produced largely in China, this is not a concern for Altuzarra. “Target contacted us because of what our brand stands for, and they were very encouraging about having us really develop a collection that was respectful of what the Altuzarra brand means,” said the designer. “Now, that doesn’t mean that we didn’t think about who the Target customer is and what she’s looking for, but it was really about bringing that customer into our world. There’s an appreciation for overall good product no matter what market you’re shopping in, and Target and I were on the same page about wanting to produce perfect, uncompromised garments.” Said uncompromised garments will all ring in at less than $100. With that in mind, we bet this collection will appeal to loyal fans and, more important, gain him some new ones.