151 posts tagged "Proenza Schouler"
Nine years after shuttering his eponymous label, Josephus Thimister is returning as the founder, owner, and art director of his house. His much anticipated comeback—featuring couture and luxury ready-to-wear pieces for both women and men (a first)—is slated to take place during the Couture shows in January, when he will also be presenting a line of “young” furs for T.Paris.
The 47-year-old Dutch designer spoke with Style.com about the benefits of experience and why now, of all times, is the moment to “grow into a comeback.”
Where have you been all this time?
Well, I never wanted to come back because when you are your own backer, it’s a nightmare! In a way, I had to stop because my collection was produced by Genny and they wanted me to work just for them. It was a time when I had just lost my mother and my best friend. My label had enjoyed great press, but inside the structure it was a mess. So I took a sabbatical year and traveled to Brazil and Argentina, then suddenly three years had gone by. Then I started working for commercial brands, starting with Genny, and I found I loved it because I could make them better than they were. I designed the Andy Warhol collection (for markets outside the U.S.; it never hit the stores). Then I went to Charles Jourdan—the quality and craftsmanship were there, it could have worked so well had it not been for mismanagement—and I also consulted for Swarovski.
Are the eighties over as a source of fashion inspiration? Tommy Ton’s recent street-style photos seem to indicate a move toward easier seventies styles, and we found further evidence of the trend in the tie-dyed looks that brightened the Spring runways. “There’s something about tie-dye that speaks to everyone,” says Tory Burch, adding, “it’s a little nostalgic but also feels modern.” If Blumarine‘s caftan belongs cheerfully in the former camp, Proenza Schouler‘s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough gave the dyeing technique new life by applying it to sleek and of-the-moment active-sports styles. Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, meanwhile, pieced together ragged, postapocalyptic looks using fabric usually associated with long-haired flower children. Are you ready for the re-dawning of the Age of Aquarius?
Click for a slideshow and let us know, below.
Love it or hate it, there’s no escaping the power of Twilight. Nor, it seems, is there any escaping the power of Kristen Stewart. The vampire-loving starlet has been linked to her broodingly handsome co-star Robert Pattinson (the tabloids’ infatuation with their boyfriend-girlfriend status makes Brangelina-baiting look tame) and gets to cozy up to super-ripped teen heartthrob Taylor Lautner in New Moon, out next week. But the kicker for fashion folk came today in London, where Stewart walked the red carpet in brand-spankin’-new Spring 2010 Proenza Schouler. And not just any Proenza Schouler. The young lady got her hands on Look 20, arguably the best look in a show full of serious contenders. Before we consider how Stewart snagged the goods before more diehard (no, not twi-hard) Proenza fans like Chloë Sevigny or Kirsten Dunst did, let’s open the comments up to whether or not she pulled it off. Does Stewart’s red-carpet innocence work with this graphic look, or does she need to channel her inner surfer girl? Leave your comments below.
Who made our Top Ten list for Spring? Designers with a point of view: Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, who went back to his haute street roots. Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, who made fashion fun again, and sent out some fabulously crafty clothes in the process. Celine‘s Phoebe Philo, for her fearless new brand of contemporary minimalism. And even though they didn’t quite crack our top ten, there are plenty more who deserve shout-outs this season: Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta‘s Tomas Maier, the young Londoner Christopher Kane, and the even younger Londoner Mary Katrantzou. We could go on, but what would be the point of a Top Ten list if we did that? To see who made our cut, check out our editors’ picks.
[The Top Ten Collections, Style.com]
As much as we love lists, we also love predictions. Yesterday, Vanity Fair gave us both, releasing its annual New Establishment ranking along with an appendage of on-the-verge comers, the Next Establishment. Along with power elite in finance and technology, etc, there’s a sizeable fashion industry factor. On the first are obvious choices like Bernard Arnault (#10) and nemesis François-Henri Pinault (#20), while Ralph Lauren sits between them at a very respectable #13. Having had very good years are J. Crew’s Mickey Drexler, moving up from last year’s #52 spot to #37; Marc Jacobs, who rose from #78 to #54; Diego Della Valle, up from #76 to #50; and John Galliano, strutting from #83 to #56. While Miuccia Prada dropped from #30 to #44, she’s still Mrs. Prada. And fresh off a runway triumph, Alber Elbaz makes his first entry at #73.
As for who might be joining the Lanvin designer at the adults’ table for 2010, there’s Burberry’s Christopher Bailey and Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier—both lauded for being forward-thinking caretakers of iconic brands. There’s the face that launched a thousand (well, million) ballet flats, Tory Burch, and red-carpet rulers Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. However, the selection of younger Americans is somewhat curious. You could probably guess Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy and Alexander Wang, but it’s surprising that Zac Posen and Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg beat out seemingly recession-proof king of contemporary Phillip Lim and Proenza Schouler, the very first of New York’s younger set to win the CFDA’s Designer of the Year award. Also missing are MObama go-tos like Jason Wu and Thakoon Panichgul. Another surprise is MTV host and ubiquitous girl-about-town Alexa Chung. Though going from “who?” to Who’s Who in the course of less than a year is no mean feat.