151 posts tagged "Proenza Schouler"
One look at the sunglasses on the Spring runways and it’s clear: Gone are the days of the no-nonsense shades. Dries Van Noten and Marni, never ones to disappoint with eyewear, delivered fantastic plastic versions, building solidly on ground they’ve covered in the past. Meanwhile, the boys from Proenza Schouler ditched the neo-hippie orbs that inspired many a knockoff in favor of a more geometric blackout to counterbalance their stellar surf-inspired collection.
Spotted at Chanel: lace-trim aviators, perfect for, perhaps, a stylish Sicilian widow, or any girl-about-town, for that matter. Then there were chem-lab-meets-club-kid at Prada, with thick, clear frames and lime-green lenses. Alexander Wang‘s sci-fi cat-eye already has a fan club, including Lady Gaga. Looks like Spring may shape up to be a season where we’ll dress around our sunglasses. What do you think about the new eyewear? Are you a circle or a square?
There’s fiction—Ugly Betty, The Devil Wears Prada. There’s “reality”—Project Runway, America’s Next Top Model, The Rachel Zoe Show, and so on, ad nauseum. Now comes reality. Tomorrow night, the Sundance Channel debuts The Day Before, a documentary series portraying the final hours before the Sonia Rykiel, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, and Gaultier Haute Couture fashion shows. Commanding access that should make the hair of any fashion aspirant stand on end, director Loïc Prigent takes pains to show the real life of fashion, as sublime, as surreal, as high-stakes and as prosaic as it is, day-to-day. Dresses unsewn mere minutes before the lights go up on the catwalk. Missing models. Technical mishaps. Whacked-out seamstresses staging a 1 a.m. runway show. Alongside The September Issue, the series effectively counterpunches the prevailing public image of fashion people as a community of shopaholic psychotics, replacing it with something richer, stranger, and—yes—realer. Prigent himself is no stranger to the scene behind the scenes: Together with Agnès Boulard, Prigent produces a popular fashion-themed show for French television, and he directed the the miniseries Signé Chanel and the documentary Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton, both of which previously aired on the Sundance Channel. This evening, the network fêtes The Day Before, and the multi-platform Full Frontal Fashion initiative it tentpoles, with a party hosted by Nathalie Rykiel and Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler. Here, the director talks to Style.com about fashion geekdom, fur machismo, and filming for a nation of drama queens.
OK, I have to start by asking—how on earth did you convince these designers to let you and your camera crews in on their last-minute show preparations? That’s a high-pressure situation as is. And for that matter, how on earth did you convince Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs to let you follow them around—camera in tow—for months on end?
You know, I think the decisive moment, when I began really to have access to this world, was at the first show of Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent. Everyone else was filming the celebrities, but I had always one eye for Yves Saint Laurent, because he was there in the front row, and I was like, totally starstruck. And so I never panned to the movie stars, I just kept my camera rolling on Monsieur Saint Laurent. The mic was on, and I got Monsieur Saint Laurent saying to Bernard Arnault, “Monsieur Arnault, please get us out of this scam.” But in French, he used a very bad word—not a word you would expect out of Yves Saint Laurent. Of course, he was referring to Tom Ford coming to Yves Saint Laurent, and the Gucci Group buying the label, and he was upset about all this. A very revealing conversation. And everyone was like, “Oh my God, you can’t use that!” But to me, I mean, Monsieur Saint Laurent had never spoke about any of this in public, and it was such a great story, I had to use it. So, since then, it seems like people give me more access.
Continue Reading “A Conversation With Loïc Prigent, Fashion Geek” »
If you’re a fashion diehard based below the Mason-Dixon, chances are your go-to boutique is Capitol, Laura Vinroot Poole’s ten-year-old Charlotte institution. She specializes in cherry-picking key pieces from the season’s top collections. For Fall, think Balmain jackets, Dries Van Noten’s brightly hued separates, and dramatic gowns from Olivier Theyskens’ final season at Nina Ricci. Vinroot Poole also champions up-and-coming designers. Her select this season: Joseph Altuzarra for his collection of body-con dresses and sexy thigh-high boots.
Any items with wait lists?
LVP: Proenza Schouler’s P.S.1 bag, Balmain’s pagoda-shoulder jacket, everything from Alaïa, and Golden Goose trainers.
What do you anticipate will be your biggest sellers?
LVP: Altuzarra (particularly his thigh-high boots and any of the lavender pieces), Givenchy, Rodarte, Nicholas Kirkwood, The Row, and Vanessa Bruno.
How are shoppers buying differently now from a year ago?
LVP: Certainly, clients are more careful and have scaled back their purchases somewhat, but most buying patterns here are the same as they’ve ever been. Each piece must be thoughtfully woven into a customer’s wardrobe and must tell an evolving story about her life. Items are typically all purchased for specific occasions.
Which new lines are you excited about?
LVP: Altuzarra, Nina Ricci handbags, and Devi Kroell’s RTW line.
Is there anything you saw on the runway that you knew you had to have?
LVP: Dries Van Noten’s collection based on the colors from Francis Bacon’s works are perfect for sunny North Carolina…the colors were glorious! Balenciaga’s long-sleeve cocktail dresses were lovely and appropriate for the South—beautiful and sexy, yet well-mannered. I was crazy over Jeremy Laing’s Flame tunics. The collection was inspired by a trip to Charlotte (NASCAR country) and a private tour of Hendrick Motorsports. I’m also excited for Olivier Theyskens’ last collection for Nina Ricci. We’ve carried him from his original collection under his own name, then to Rochas, and on to Nina Ricci. He is exceedingly talented and I will follow him wherever he lands next!
Click to see a slideshow of Vinroot Poole’s top fall picks.
Fashion power players including Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein and Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, along with a slew of top editors and retailers, joined CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg and executive director Steven Kolb this morning at FIT’s Katie Murphy Amphitheatre to discuss the future of New York fashion shows. “Are they relevant as we know them?” was the question at hand, and on the table were concerns about the timing and deliveries of collections and the money spent on expensive runway shows vs. the money made on less flashy, more lucrative pre-collections. Among the most contentious issues raised was what Donna Karan called a “white sale” mentality that’s training customers not to buy clothes and accessories at full price. In the spirit of problem solving, Vogue‘s Anna Wintour suggested that stores get together and set ground rules about when the discounting can start. When she was informed by von Furstenberg that that’s illegal, she replied: “Is that something we can change? We have friends in the White House now.” One topic that we’ll be keeping close tabs on for all of you Style Filers is the potential of fashion shows for consumers, in addition, that is, to shows for editors, buyers, and designers’ celebrity pals. Betsey Johnson, for her part, announced she’d be the first to sign up: “I would love to show at Madison Square Garden,” she said.