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July 25 2014

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153 posts tagged "Proenza Schouler"

Choice Cuts: The Ten Shows We Loved

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Who made our Top Ten list for Spring? Designers with a point of view: Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, who went back to his haute street roots. Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, who made fashion fun again, and sent out some fabulously crafty clothes in the process. Celine‘s Phoebe Philo, for her fearless new brand of contemporary minimalism. And even though they didn’t quite crack our top ten, there are plenty more who deserve shout-outs this season: Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta‘s Tomas Maier, the young Londoner Christopher Kane, and the even younger Londoner Mary Katrantzou. We could go on, but what would be the point of a Top Ten list if we did that? To see who made our cut, check out our editors’ picks.

[The Top Ten Collections, Style.com]

Photo: Luca Cannonieri/GoRunway.com

Established & Sons: Vanity Fair‘s New And Next

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As much as we love lists, we also love predictions. Yesterday, Vanity Fair gave us both, releasing its annual New Establishment ranking along with an appendage of on-the-verge comers, the Next Establishment. Along with power elite in finance and technology, etc, there’s a sizeable fashion industry factor. On the first are obvious choices like Bernard Arnault (#10) and nemesis François-Henri Pinault (#20), while Ralph Lauren sits between them at a very respectable #13. Having had very good years are J. Crew’s Mickey Drexler, moving up from last year’s #52 spot to #37; Marc Jacobs, who rose from #78 to #54; Diego Della Valle, up from #76 to #50; and John Galliano, strutting from #83 to #56. While Miuccia Prada dropped from #30 to #44, she’s still Mrs. Prada. And fresh off a runway triumph, Alber Elbaz makes his first entry at #73.

As for who might be joining the Lanvin designer at the adults’ table for 2010, there’s Burberry’s Christopher Bailey and Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier—both lauded for being forward-thinking caretakers of iconic brands. There’s the face that launched a thousand (well, million) ballet flats, Tory Burch, and red-carpet rulers Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. However, the selection of younger Americans is somewhat curious. You could probably guess Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy and Alexander Wang, but it’s surprising that Zac Posen and Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg beat out seemingly recession-proof king of contemporary Phillip Lim and Proenza Schouler, the very first of New York’s younger set to win the CFDA’s Designer of the Year award. Also missing are MObama go-tos like Jason Wu and Thakoon Panichgul. Another surprise is MTV host and ubiquitous girl-about-town Alexa Chung. Though going from “who?” to Who’s Who in the course of less than a year is no mean feat.

Photos: Bedder/Getty Images, Ray Tamarra/Getty Images, Marcio Madeira, Greg Kessler

Throwing Major Shade For Spring

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One look at the sunglasses on the Spring runways and it’s clear: Gone are the days of the no-nonsense shades. Dries Van Noten and Marni, never ones to disappoint with eyewear, delivered fantastic plastic versions, building solidly on ground they’ve covered in the past. Meanwhile, the boys from Proenza Schouler ditched the neo-hippie orbs that inspired many a knockoff in favor of a more geometric blackout to counterbalance their stellar surf-inspired collection.

Spotted at Chanel: lace-trim aviators, perfect for, perhaps, a stylish Sicilian widow, or any girl-about-town, for that matter. Then there were chem-lab-meets-club-kid at Prada, with thick, clear frames and lime-green lenses. Alexander Wang‘s sci-fi cat-eye already has a fan club, including Lady Gaga. Looks like Spring may shape up to be a season where we’ll dress around our sunglasses. What do you think about the new eyewear? Are you a circle or a square?

Photo: Don Ashby and Olivier Claisse

A Conversation With Loïc Prigent, Fashion Geek

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There’s fiction—Ugly Betty, The Devil Wears Prada. There’s “reality”—Project Runway, America’s Next Top Model, The Rachel Zoe Show, and so on, ad nauseum. Now comes reality. Tomorrow night, the Sundance Channel debuts The Day Before, a documentary series portraying the final hours before the Sonia Rykiel, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, and Gaultier Haute Couture fashion shows. Commanding access that should make the hair of any fashion aspirant stand on end, director Loïc Prigent takes pains to show the real life of fashion, as sublime, as surreal, as high-stakes and as prosaic as it is, day-to-day. Dresses unsewn mere minutes before the lights go up on the catwalk. Missing models. Technical mishaps. Whacked-out seamstresses staging a 1 a.m. runway show. Alongside The September Issue, the series effectively counterpunches the prevailing public image of fashion people as a community of shopaholic psychotics, replacing it with something richer, stranger, and—yes—realer. Prigent himself is no stranger to the scene behind the scenes: Together with Agnès Boulard, Prigent produces a popular fashion-themed show for French television, and he directed the the miniseries Signé Chanel and the documentary Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton, both of which previously aired on the Sundance Channel. This evening, the network fêtes The Day Before, and the multi-platform Full Frontal Fashion initiative it tentpoles, with a party hosted by Nathalie Rykiel and Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler. Here, the director talks to Style.com about fashion geekdom, fur machismo, and filming for a nation of drama queens.

OK, I have to start by asking—how on earth did you convince these designers to let you and your camera crews in on their last-minute show preparations? That’s a high-pressure situation as is. And for that matter, how on earth did you convince Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs to let you follow them around—camera in tow—for months on end?

You know, I think the decisive moment, when I began really to have access to this world, was at the first show of Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent. Everyone else was filming the celebrities, but I had always one eye for Yves Saint Laurent, because he was there in the front row, and I was like, totally starstruck. And so I never panned to the movie stars, I just kept my camera rolling on Monsieur Saint Laurent. The mic was on, and I got Monsieur Saint Laurent saying to Bernard Arnault, “Monsieur Arnault, please get us out of this scam.” But in French, he used a very bad word—not a word you would expect out of Yves Saint Laurent. Of course, he was referring to Tom Ford coming to Yves Saint Laurent, and the Gucci Group buying the label, and he was upset about all this. A very revealing conversation. And everyone was like, “Oh my God, you can’t use that!” But to me, I mean, Monsieur Saint Laurent had never spoke about any of this in public, and it was such a great story, I had to use it. So, since then, it seems like people give me more access.
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What They’ll Be Wearing in Charlotte This Fall

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If you’re a fashion diehard based below the Mason-Dixon, chances are your go-to boutique is Capitol, Laura Vinroot Poole’s ten-year-old Charlotte institution. She specializes in cherry-picking key pieces from the season’s top collections. For Fall, think Balmain jackets, Dries Van Noten’s brightly hued separates, and dramatic gowns from Olivier Theyskens’ final season at Nina Ricci. Vinroot Poole also champions up-and-coming designers. Her select this season: Joseph Altuzarra for his collection of body-con dresses and sexy thigh-high boots.

Any items with wait lists?

LVP: Proenza Schouler’s P.S.1 bag, Balmain’s pagoda-shoulder jacket, everything from Alaïa, and Golden Goose trainers.

What do you anticipate will be your biggest sellers?

LVP: Altuzarra (particularly his thigh-high boots and any of the lavender pieces), Givenchy, Rodarte, Nicholas Kirkwood, The Row, and Vanessa Bruno.

How are shoppers buying differently now from a year ago?

LVP: Certainly, clients are more careful and have scaled back their purchases somewhat, but most buying patterns here are the same as they’ve ever been. Each piece must be thoughtfully woven into a customer’s wardrobe and must tell an evolving story about her life. Items are typically all purchased for specific occasions.

Which new lines are you excited about?

LVP: Altuzarra, Nina Ricci handbags, and Devi Kroell’s RTW line.

Is there anything you saw on the runway that you knew you had to have?

LVP: Dries Van Noten’s collection based on the colors from Francis Bacon’s works are perfect for sunny North Carolina…the colors were glorious! Balenciaga’s long-sleeve cocktail dresses were lovely and appropriate for the South—beautiful and sexy, yet well-mannered. I was crazy over Jeremy Laing’s Flame tunics. The collection was inspired by a trip to Charlotte (NASCAR country) and a private tour of Hendrick Motorsports. I’m also excited for Olivier Theyskens’ last collection for Nina Ricci. We’ve carried him from his original collection under his own name, then to Rochas, and on to Nina Ricci. He is exceedingly talented and I will follow him wherever he lands next!


Click to see a slideshow of Vinroot Poole’s top fall picks.