148 posts tagged "Proenza Schouler"
Jack McCollough And Lazaro Hernandez Talk Proenza Schouler’s New Store, Polished Vandalism, And Their Sunlit Accessories Garden-------
Following their blockbuster Spring ’14 outing, there’s no doubt that Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are New York’s designer darlings. The pair has mastered a sophisticated cool girl aesthetic that appeals to the uptown and downtown sets alike. So it makes sense that on Friday, Proenza Schouler opened a flagship at 121 Greene Street to complement its Madison Avenue location. Like the uptown boutique, which became the brand’s first retail endeavor when it bowed last year, the 2,500-square-foot Soho shop was designed by David Adjaye.
With an affinity for contrast, McCollough and Hernandez gave their Madison store a gritty, downtown sensibility. And naturally, they’ve infused the Soho space—which boasts concrete accents, mirrored panels, and hardwood floors—with some UES panache. “One of the key elements references vandalized urban walls, but they are executed in veined marbles that speak to something urbane but in a polished way,” the designers told Style.com. Set inside an historic cast iron front building (just feet away from Saint Laurent, Chloé, and Warby Parker’s recently christened outposts), the Greene Street location will house every single product that Proenza produces—from runway looks to small leather goods. The latter will be showcased in the designers’ favorite room: the accessories garden. “The original architecture of the space made it possible for us to do serious planting in the back of the store, which brought life and color to the space. It’s important for us to always have a bit of the outdoors, a bit of a natural element, to everything we do.” Here, Lazaro and Hernandez talk to Style.com about the new boutique, Soho’s thriving retailscape, their plans for further brand expansion, and why, more often than not, it takes two.
Why did now feel like the right time to open your second store?
We have always known that we wanted a presence both uptown and downtown. The question was, which one would come first? When we found a location that spoke to us uptown first, we decided to pursue it. Soho seemed like a natural fit for us. It has become a real center for luxury brands over the last couple of years and we knew we wanted to be a part of that landscape. The brand experience felt incomplete with just one location uptown, and this new epicenter downtown completes our vision. One is complete because of the other. Sometimes things really are better in pairs.
Do you have any other plans for brand expansion in the works?
Retail expansion is definitely on the forefront of what we are working on at the moment. We have a language now that we are keen to explore and adapt to individual locations. Retail not only supports our business, but it is an incredibly fulfilling creative project that we are so happy to be able to work on, and there are definitely more [projects] on the horizon. Bergdorf Goodman just unveiled its new Proenza Schouler shop-in-shop this week using the DNA from the Greene Street location. The opening of these two spaces within one week’s time has been an incredibly fulfilling experience that we feel so lucky to have been able to do. We are currently opening stores in Singapore, Bangkok, and Hong Kong.
If you’re looking to give your loved ones a set of gilded brass knuckles this holiday season, look no further than Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter’s collaboration with Barneys. Following in the footsteps of Lady Gaga, who designed a holiday workshop for the retailer in 2011, Hova has worked with labels such as Proenza Schouler, En Noir, Rick Owens, Acne Studios, Lanvin, Balenciaga (above, top right), Balmain (above, bottom left), Hoorsenbuhs (who had a hand in the aforementioned ring, above, bottom right), and more to create a series of limited-edition products—all of which will be displayed and for sale in a special gallery in Barneys’ Madison Avenue flagship, beginning November 20. Twenty-five percent of the proceeds from the project, which the pair have dubbed A New York Holiday, will be donated to the Shawn Carter Foundation. We’ve got 99 problems (give or take), but, thanks to this team-up, holiday shopping ain’t one.
More so than in any other city, Milan designers and casting directors are known to favor established models over newcomers, but this week we witnessed a slew of fresh faces break through to the front of the pack. Many of the girls who started strong in New York and London
Another thing Milan was previously known for was overlooking minorities, so it was thrilling to see many of our favorite up-and-coming black models, including Firth, Binx Walton (top right), Cindy Bruna, Maria Borges (we never could’ve guessed that she would open Giorgio Armani), and Kai Newman making major strides this week. Newman, who hails from Kingston, Jamaica, positively wowed us at Gucci and Jil Sander. We can’t wait to see her go on to crush it in Paris.
Natalia Siodmiak (top left) is someone who has been making the rounds for several seasons but is suddenly at the top of everyone’s watch lists. After ending London on a high note with turns at Christopher Kane and Giles, the gap-toothed beauty cranked up the sex appeal at Gucci, Versace, and Emilio Pucci, and opened and closed Max Mara. It’s gratifying to see someone who’s been paying her dues finally have a moment. Speaking of moments, who could forget Moschino’s memorable roster of old-school supes, including Pat Cleveland, Alek Wek, Erin O’Connor, Jodie Kidd, and Diana Dondoe? Another runway high point was Liya Kebede and Malgosia Bela walking Emilio Pucci. And, naturally, there’s plenty in store for model-followers in Paris. Just today, iconic Snejana Onopka made a cameo appearance at Anthony Vaccarello, whipping the Fashion Spot forums into a frenzy.
With each new season comes a whole crop of new models to get acquainted with, and what struck us about many of Spring ’14′s rising stars was their interesting names—Drake Burnette (below, left), Binx Walton, Malaika Firth (above, top left), Holly Rose Emery (below, right), and Zlata Mangafic in particular. Their cool monikers only added to their allure during the New York and London shows. Firth is perhaps the most promising fresh face to emerge these past two weeks. We knew the 19-year-old stunner from Kenya (by way of London) would be major when she landed the Prada Fall ’13 campaign (she’s the first black model to do so since Naomi Campbell in 1994, which gave rise to a slew of comparisons to the supe) and walked in the label’s menswear Resort presentation back in June. Firth started her season at Jason Wu, and continued to walk only top-tier shows during NYFW, including Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection, Marc Jacobs, and Proenza Schouler. She kept up the pace across the pond, turning up at Burberry, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, and Mary Katrantzou.
Other girls who got explosive starts from that Prada menswear runway over the summer include Anna Ewers (above, top right) and Emery. Ewers caught Alexander Wang’s eye (as well as the attention of casting director Anita Bitton) back in February, when she was included in the lineup for his debut Balenciaga collection. Next, the strong German beauty starred in the Resort lookbooks for both Alexander Wang and Balenciaga, so we were hardly surprised to see the designer’s new muse open his Spring ’14 show—the easy, cool hair and makeup were even reportedly inspired by Ewers’ natural look. She went on to do Altuzarra, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs. Meanwhile, Emery’s career took off during the Fall couture shows, and her Kewpie Doll pout won her spots on Spring catwalks including Jason Wu, Theyskens’ Theory, Marc Jacobs, Christopher Kane, and Giles. Another newcomer who has walked all the right runways so far is Kate Goodling (above, bottom left). The second girl out at Alexander Wang, she also appeared at Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodrgieuz, Altuzarra, and Donna Karan. Her all-American appeal will take her far. Ophelie Guillermand (above, bottom right), likewise, made an impact at both Alexander Wang and Calvin Klein. Continue Reading “New Model News From New York and London” »
Fringe, in every length, style, and color, has been adding a playful kick to the Spring ’14 collections. It surfaced early in NYC, namely at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Ralph Rucci. The former showed fringe on punctuated-block tops in Neapolitan hues, while the latter offered an evening gown tiered in fiber-optic strands that radiated with synthetic rainbow phosphorescence (“eyelashes,” Rucci called the textile).
At Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy paid homage to their beloved Los Angeles, attaching long tassels to trash-fab grommeted belts and heavy leather skirts. Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez whipped up a lattice-patterned overcoat in shredded fabric—scraps of which were dip-dyed crimson red, and Marc Jacobs enhanced his collection’s Victorian vibe via bunches of fluid thread (above, center). Meanwhile, Francisco Costa—who celebrated ten years at the helm of Calvin Klein—also implemented fringe on a number of sporty silhouettes (above, left), breathing a reinvigorated rawness into his famed streamlined aesthetic.
The trend has been spotted out of the gate in London, too. Sister by Sibling used drapery tassels on netted skirts (above, right), while Holly Fulton employed wispy stranding on topcoats at her seventies-influenced outing. Of the fringe effect, New York’s Fivestory owner Claire Distenfeld told Style.com, “Amazing elements from the past are back in full force, including fringe. As a romantic, I’m ready to embrace it.”