12 posts tagged "Public School"
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has announced the ten talents that it’s sending to the Americans in Paris showroom next week, and the list is filled with many of the bold-faced up-and-comers you’d expect. New York darlings Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow of Public School made the cut, as well as Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin of Tome, Misha Nonoo, Wes Gordon, Jennifer Fisher, The Elder Statesman’s Greg Chait, Marc Alary, Richard Chai, George Esquivel, and Juan Carlos Obando. We have no doubts that these hometown up-and-comers will be able to wow the international fashion set.
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the designers of Public School, proved that they’re worthy recipients of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s top prize. They showed womenswear alongside their menswear for the first time at Milk Studios yesterday, but what I like about them is that they’re not trying to run before they can walk. Here, for both boys and girls, they stuck to their multilayered, street-meets-high fashion guns. They also had a great casting, completely un-self-conscious in its diversity. Why can’t more designers figure that out?
HOOD BY AIR
Speaking of casting, Kevin Amato, who fills the Hood by Air runway with a spectacular group of mostly nonprofessional models of every color and gender, is at the top of his game. The show was ten or so looks too long and the catwalk inside Chelsea Piers about a mile too long, but nothing could detract from the impression that this is the most exciting label in New York right now. (For more on that, see Maya Singer’s profile in the last issue of Style.com/Print.) Designer Shayne Oliver continued to find ways to breathe new life into logo sweatshirts—a neater trick than it sounds—and pushed his aesthetic forward in dynamic, multizippered outfits in leather, suede, and velvet. The finale of voguers hair-whipped the crowd into delirium. You can enjoy the energy of that, but don’t overlook how much thought and hard work Oliver is putting into honing his vision.
From Hood to haute. Five blocks away at the Paul Kasmin Gallery, the charming designer Manolo Blahnik was showing off his charming shoes against the backdrop of four charming films directed by his friend Michael Roberts. Blahnik, indomitable despite the fact that he was nursing a sinus infection and a sprained neck, held up a shoe and offered it for inspection to Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, the stylist. It had a curtain of tasseled fringe across the instep. “Ca je deteste,” said De Dudzeele, not so much dismissing Blahnik’s work as the entire notion of tasseled fringe. Blahnik was visibly tickled by his friend’s honesty. “You need people like that,” he said. “Who tell you.” Besides, De Dudzeele’s restless eye had already fastened onto another shoe. This one she j’adored.
DINNER AT INDOCHINE
I ran home after Diane von Furstenberg’s show, a celebration of the remarkable forty-year run of her wrap dress. I caught up with some editing, and then Susan and I headed out to a dinner celebrating the appointment of Kyle Hagler as president of the New York division of Next Model Management (or, as we like to think of him, Kyle “The Cover” Hagler—the guy’s relentless in trying to place his clients on the cover of your magazine). During seventeen years at IMG, Hagler was instrumental in building the careers of Liya Kebede and Joan Smalls, among others, and has done as much as any model agent to champion diversity (though I suspect he sees it less as breaking barriers than simply erasing them). Now he gets to run the show.
On the way out, we ran into our buddy Waris Ahluwalia. “Sorry,” I said. “I think I missed your event.” He’d had a tasting for his line of teas at The Standard earlier that afternoon. “That’s OK,” Waris shot back. “It was really only meant to be for friends and family anyway.”
READ THIS REVIEW NOW
Yesterday, Tim Blanks produced and hosted three videos for us, went to a designer’s studio to report a story for the next issue of our magazine, and knocked off a couple of reviews, including this marvel of lucidity that arrived in my inbox at 2:09 a.m. That amounts to a light day for Tim.
Since Jenné Lombardo, Mazdack Rassi, and Keith Baptista launched Made fashion week in 2009, the program has helped such stars as Altuzarra, Suno, and Hood by Air gain their footing. And while Lincoln Center’s Fall ’14 schedule is thinning, Made’s lineup is robust as ever. Of course, there’s that little fact that the latter picks up the designers’ venue, production, hair, and makeup tabs. But on cool factor alone, if you’re an independent or emerging talent, the initiative’s Milk Studios and Standard Hotel spaces are inarguably the hottest spots to show. Today, Style.com can exclusively reveal Made’s Fall ’14 schedule, and it’s packed with exciting newbies like Azede Jean-Pierre, Charles Harbison, CG by Chris Gelinas (who won the second annual Made for Peroni Young Designer Award), Maria ke Fisherman, Baja East, Highland, and more. “There are a few things that are important to us,” offered Lombardo of the competitive selection process. “There’s obviously the talent side—we want to share beautiful talent with editors and buyers. We also want to make sure that [our designers] have a sense of business, because we invest a lot of money and time into this program,” she said. “We want to ensure that we’re investing in brands that are going to be successful—maybe not even financially, but that are going to at least make an impact on culture.”
Also on the docket for Fall is Australian designer Dion Lee‘s debut Made romp (he showed in New York for the first time last season at Eyebeam Studios in Chelsea), as well as CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award-winning label Public School. After presenting with Made for the past few seasons, the brand’s designers, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, will be holding their first bona fide runway show. “Every season I’m excited because I get to see the evolution of these designers’ collections,” said Lombardo. “We really get involved with their processes. The designers know that we’re humans—we’re not just an organization—and that they can always talk to somebody from the Made team.”
Just in case there was any doubt about Made’s cachet, Lombardo told us that the T-shirts for the MFW’s Fall ’14 Parsons interns were designed and donated by artists Daniel Arsham and Chris Stamp. “They’re really great-looking, and they’d be really expensive,” Lombardo chirped. “It’s stuff like this that’s exciting for us—we get people who are part of our culture approaching us and wanting to participate. If we weren’t who we were, we’d have to beg people for stuff like this. It’s just kind of cool.”
Have a read through all twenty-eight designers on Made’s Fall ’14 schedule, below.
MADE FASHION WEEK FALL ’14
Thursday, February 6
Dion Lee Continue Reading “Exclusive: Made Fashion Week Announces Its Fall ’14 Lineup” »
Tonight in New York, industry insiders and supporters such as Julianne Moore, Christina Ricci, and Diane von Furstenberg gathered at Spring Studios for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s annual gala. Earlier this year, the decade-old initiative, which provides financial support and mentorship for emerging fashion talents, selected ten semi-finalists for its 2013 prize. And this evening, following a speech by Tom Ford, on-the-rise menswear label Public School, designed by Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, took the top honor. “We’ve been having such a great year, we were happy just to be here with you,” said the designers during their acceptance speech—and they weren’t kidding about the great year bit. The pair also took the 2013 Swarovski Award for Menswear at the CFDAs in June. “To say we’re tremendously humbled is an understatement,” added the winners, who were chosen by a committee that included Reed Krakoff, David Neville, Marcus Wainwright, Anna Wintour, and Jenna Lyons, among others.
The runners up, too, expressed their excitement. “Being in this room and on this stage [with Tom Ford and Julianne Moore], I want to stay here forever,” said second runner up, jewelry designer Mark Alary. Juan Carlos Obando, who was named as the first runner up, offered some heartfelt words of gratitude. “The word thank you is very small. I found a word that is really true. It’s I love you, to all the judges.”
Orley—the effervescent New York-based menswear label designed by brothers Alex and Matthew Orley, and the latter’s fiancée, Samantha Florence—has come a long way since launching with only a handful of playful jumpers last year. Having previously focused on knitwear, Orley unveiled its first full-fledged collection for Spring ’14—all forty-five pieces of it. “Knits are still eighty percent of the [line],” offered Samantha. “But this season, we were able to build off feedback we’ve gotten from the retailers, now that we have some sales history.” And an impressive sales history it is—after only four seasons on the scene, the brand is already sold by Bergdorf Goodman, Fivestory, Carson Street Clothiers, and Tokyo’s United Arrows, among others.
The designers like to avoid any literal references when dreaming up their luxe cashmere, linen, and cotton wares. But this season, a hint of the Italian coast couldn’t help but sneak its way in. “It all starts with the palette,” explained Alex. “And recently, we had been spending a lot of time on the Adriatic because that’s where our factories are, so there are some Mediterranean reference points in the colors, the floral motifs, and the loucheness of the collection.” This comes through in a laid-back trousers-and-jacket combo cut from burnt-red linen, as well as striped cardigans in various hues of citrus or aqua, and pullovers done in oversize floral prints. “Really, it always comes back to how Matthew and I want to dress,” continued Alex of the brand’s aesthetic. “It’s irreverent—a little bit tossed on and colorful, and it doesn’t take itself too seriously.”
Considering the emerging menswear boom we’ve seen in New York of late (just look at Public School, Tim Coppens, Todd Snyder, and the like), young brands need a little something extra to stand out. And the Orley crew asserts that its appeal lies in the sheer quality of its product. The knits, all of which are produced in Italy (wovens are made right here in the USA), are crafted with top-notch yarns from mills like Loro Piana and Cariaggi. And one can’t overlook the to-a-T details, like horn and gilded buttons, grosgrain and leather trims, and combination linings.
Orley seems well positioned to forge ahead, and it has big goals for the future, including expanded e-commerce, suiting, and—a few years down the road—a stand-alone store. As for the team’s family dynamic, Alex insists that it helps the creative process. “If it comes down to a decision that we really can’t agree on, Matthew and I will arm wrestle,” he laughed. The biggest talking point this season? “I’ve been yelling at Matthew to propose to Sam for five years now, and this year he finally did it,” said Alex. “So that was the main point of discussion.”