9 posts tagged "Public School"
Tonight in New York, industry insiders and supporters such as Julianne Moore, Christina Ricci, and Diane von Furstenberg gathered at Spring Studios for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s annual gala. Earlier this year, the decade-old initiative, which provides financial support and mentorship for emerging fashion talents, selected ten semi-finalists for its 2013 prize. And this evening, following a speech by Tom Ford, on-the-rise menswear label Public School, designed by Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, took the top honor. “We’ve been having such a great year, we were happy just to be here with you,” said the designers during their acceptance speech—and they weren’t kidding about the great year bit. The pair also took the 2013 Swarovski Award for Menswear at the CFDAs in June. “To say we’re tremendously humbled is an understatement,” added the winners, who were chosen by a committee that included Reed Krakoff, David Neville, Marcus Wainwright, Anna Wintour, and Jenna Lyons, among others.
The runners up, too, expressed their excitement. “Being in this room and on this stage [with Tom Ford and Julianne Moore], I want to stay here forever,” said second runner up, jewelry designer Mark Alary. Juan Carlos Obando, who was named as the first runner up, offered some heartfelt words of gratitude. “The word thank you is very small. I found a word that is really true. It’s I love you, to all the judges.”
Orley—the effervescent New York-based menswear label designed by brothers Alex and Matthew Orley, and the latter’s fiancée, Samantha Florence—has come a long way since launching with only a handful of playful jumpers last year. Having previously focused on knitwear, Orley unveiled its first full-fledged collection for Spring ’14—all forty-five pieces of it. “Knits are still eighty percent of the [line],” offered Samantha. “But this season, we were able to build off feedback we’ve gotten from the retailers, now that we have some sales history.” And an impressive sales history it is—after only four seasons on the scene, the brand is already sold by Bergdorf Goodman, Fivestory, Carson Street Clothiers, and Tokyo’s United Arrows, among others.
The designers like to avoid any literal references when dreaming up their luxe cashmere, linen, and cotton wares. But this season, a hint of the Italian coast couldn’t help but sneak its way in. “It all starts with the palette,” explained Alex. “And recently, we had been spending a lot of time on the Adriatic because that’s where our factories are, so there are some Mediterranean reference points in the colors, the floral motifs, and the loucheness of the collection.” This comes through in a laid-back trousers-and-jacket combo cut from burnt-red linen, as well as striped cardigans in various hues of citrus or aqua, and pullovers done in oversize floral prints. “Really, it always comes back to how Matthew and I want to dress,” continued Alex of the brand’s aesthetic. “It’s irreverent—a little bit tossed on and colorful, and it doesn’t take itself too seriously.”
Considering the emerging menswear boom we’ve seen in New York of late (just look at Public School, Tim Coppens, Todd Snyder, and the like), young brands need a little something extra to stand out. And the Orley crew asserts that its appeal lies in the sheer quality of its product. The knits, all of which are produced in Italy (wovens are made right here in the USA), are crafted with top-notch yarns from mills like Loro Piana and Cariaggi. And one can’t overlook the to-a-T details, like horn and gilded buttons, grosgrain and leather trims, and combination linings.
Orley seems well positioned to forge ahead, and it has big goals for the future, including expanded e-commerce, suiting, and—a few years down the road—a stand-alone store. As for the team’s family dynamic, Alex insists that it helps the creative process. “If it comes down to a decision that we really can’t agree on, Matthew and I will arm wrestle,” he laughed. The biggest talking point this season? “I’ve been yelling at Matthew to propose to Sam for five years now, and this year he finally did it,” said Alex. “So that was the main point of discussion.”
“I think my stomach dropped to the floor and all the blood rushed out of my hands and my feet,” said Misha Nonoo of her reaction when she learned she was one of the ten 2013 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists. The emerging-designer initiative invited program alums and industry insiders, including Thakoon Panichgul, Prabal Gurung, Pamela Love, and Max Osterweis, to Rag & Bone’s Meatpacking District studio last night, where the names of this year’s top picks were revealed. Now in its tenth year, the program will announce the 2013 winners—who will receive financial support and mentoring—at a Gala in L.A., on November 11.
This year’s finalists—Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School, Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard of Veronica Beard, Marc Alary of Marc Alary Jewelry, Tim Coppens, Todd Snyder, Misha Nonoo of Nonoo, Shimon Ovadia and Ariel Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons, Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin of Tome, Commodore Jason Jones of Parabellum, and Juan Carlos Obando—were selected by a group of influencers, which included new judges Marcus Wainwright and David Neville of Rag & Bone. Continue Reading “The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Reveals Its Top Ten” »
Public School’s ascension to fashion’s main stage was all but assured when it took home the CFDA’s Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in Menswear in May. But Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow haven’t lost their under-the-radar sheen. Their crowd may be larger than it used to be, but it’s still got the feel of an upstart gang, which made them a natural choice when W Hotels was looking for a design counterpart to the kickoff of its summer music series W Gangs of New York. Tonight, in an homage to the cult 1979 film The Warriors, where rival gangs fought for control of New York, rival bands including Yeasayer, the Virgins, and Grandmaster Flash will face off. And because no gang is complete without a uniform, Osborne and Chow created eight exclusive denim jackets and vests for the occasion, which will be sold as part of the designers’ younger Black Apple diffusion label. “We were immediately drawn to the New York story of The Warriors, of course,” Chow explained, “but what really resonated was this idea of a group of friends surviving in the big city and trying to make a name for themselves. That’s essentially our story.”
“The movie had this amazing energy, beauty, and grit all clashing together,” Osborne added. ” We thought, that’s what Black Apple is! That’s the same energy we tried to communicate through these jackets. We wanted that clash.” The clash continues—musically, at least—Sunday nights all summer long as the live performance series continues, but the jackets are limited to 8 pieces.
Black Apple’s Warriors jackets will be available from tomorrow, July 10 on W Hotels’ website. Prices start at $250.
The CFDA Awards, which, sponsored by Swarovski, will be broadcast tomorrow morning exclusively on Style.com, were held tonight at Alice Tully Hall, and we’ve got to say, it was a particularly competitive year. Honorees Riccardo Tisci, Vera Wang, Colleen Atwood, Oscar de la Renta, and our very own Tim Blanks all took home their much-deserved trophies, and winners of the CFDA’s Womenswear, Menswear, and Accessory Designer of the Year Awards, as well as the Swarovski Emerging Designer Awards, were announced. Congratulations to this year’s victors, all of whom are listed below.
WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernadez for Proenza Schouler
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
ACCESSORIES DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Phillip Lim for 3.1 Phillip Lim
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR
Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis for Suno
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR MENSWEAR
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne for Public School
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR ACCESSORY DESIGN