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August 27 2014

styledotcom Tom Ford nominates Nicolas Ghesquière and Hedi Slimane for the #ALSIceBucketChallenge: stylem.ag/1ryFV4h pic.twitter.com/WFS1IJOzii

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6 posts tagged "Rad Hourani"

An Inside Look at Iris van Herpen’s ANDAM Win

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irisIris van Herpen is the winner of the 25th edition of the ANDAM Prize. The announcement was made at a cocktail party at the Hotel France-Amérique this evening in Paris, but some Twitter users were in early on the announcement. A stray Tweet made its way online before the jurors—among them first-time members including chairman and CEO of Kering Fçois-Henri Pinault, Estée Lauder’s John Demsey, Condé Nast France president Xavier Romatet, and Caroline de Maigret—adjourned for the day.

In her second year competing for the prize, Van Herpen beat out Fausto Puglisi (who in addition to his own line also creative directs Emanuel Ungaro), Yiqing Yin, Rad Hourani, Steven Tai, Jean-Paul Lespagnard, and the Études Studios trio. The Dutch 29-year-old will receive 250,000 euros and mentorship from Pinault. “It was a real privilege [to participate],” Pinault told Style.com. “The ANDAM Grand Prix is so important for the promotion of young designers in Paris. I didn’t expect this level of maturity, frankly. It was really an honor.” He went on: “I will be mentoring Iris for two seasons, and I intend to give her access to any of our brands that will help her in her project. There’s a great deal of opportunity for her.”

Van Herpen caused a mini-sensation at her first-ever ready-to-wear show for Fall ’14 last March when she suspended three models in shrink-wrapped plastic garbage bags in what she described as commentary on the commodification of the human body. Innovation is at the heart of Van Herpen’s work, and it was a key factor in her win today (as a jury member myself, I can vouch for that). “Until now, I’ve been focusing on couture to give myself the freedom and time to work on new materials and new production methods,” she said, after accepting the prize from Pinault and ANDAM’s Nathalie Dufour. “But I really feel like [my experiments] are ready to translate into the ready-to-wear now.”

Coperni’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, who claimed Nicolas Ghesquière and J.W. Anderson as their designer icons, won the 75,000 euro First Collection prize. Meyer, the designer half of the duo, is already a step ahead of some of the competitors in today’s Grand Prize category. He has a business partner in Vaillant. There’s no substitute for creativity. But, pointed out jury member Federico Marchetti of The Corner, “a business partner is something every designer needs.”

Photo: Courtesy Photo

2014 ANDAM Finalists Revealed

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This morning, ANDAM announced its 2014 Fashion Prize finalists. Fausto Puglisi, Iris van Herpen, Steven Tai, Rad Hourani, Yiqing Yin, Études Studio, and Jean-Paul Lespagnard will compete for the award, the winner of which will be announced in Paris this July. Last year’s prize was awarded to menswear youngblood Alexander Mattiusi, while other alums include Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, and Gareth Pugh. The ANDAM Fashion Prize, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, offers designers a 250,000 Euro prize, a yearlong business mentorship courtesy of Kering’s François-Henri Pinault, and 10,000 Euros of Swarovski crystals. Another trio of talents, Coperni, Gauchère and Monographie, are up for the 75,000 euros First Collections prize. “I am very honored to be apart of this year’s finalists. The ANDAM Award is one of the most globally recognized support for designers over the last 25 years. I am incredibly excited (and a bit nervous too!) to present my work to the jury,” offered Steven Tai. Speaking of the jury, this years judges include Ellen von Unwerth, Caroline de Maigret, Condé Nast France president Xavier Romatet, and Style.com’s own Nicole Phelps, among others. Have a gander at some of the finalists’ designs here.

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Photo: Courtesy Photos 

Rad Hourani Shows You How It’s Done

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Unisex dressing is one of the touchstones of the Paris-based designer Rad Hourani. Modular dressing is another. So not only does he show collections—both for his more experimental Rad Hourani line, and the (ever so slightly) more commercial RAD by Rad Hourani—of matching looks on men and women, those looks are composed of a startlingly small number of pieces. His seventh collection for Rad Hourani, shown this week in Paris, boiled down to six pieces. But from those—zippered, unzippered, tied, twisted, and layered—22 looks were born. It’s a clever if occasionally slightly head-scratching bit of calculus to work out. So no wonder Hourani’s taken to illustrating his point with video, where the looks can pile on and off in the blink of an eye. At his Paris presentation, he showed the following short, just before Irina Lazareanu took to the mic for a song. It stars Herieth Paul, the rising Tanzanian model, who also opened the RAD by Rad show in New York. Check out the debut, below.

Rad Hourani’s Six Easy Pieces

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Being at Paris fashion week—a.k.a. the purgatory of the chronic over-packer—a Donna Karan-like system of dressing sounds like heaven. That’s just what Rad Hourani has created with his new collection: six pieces (one less than Donna’s famous seven easy ones) that combine to create 22 different looks. There are three jackets, one dress/top, one pair of pants, even one bag and one wallet. All are black leather or wool crepe, except the dress/top in white cotton shirting, for a touch of graphic contrast.

It doesn’t sound like much, but the collection, through the magic of zippers (a Hourani favorite), expands exponentially. A jacket turns into a skirt or a cape. Another transforms into a sort of belt. The back panel of yet another zips off to become a clutch bag, and so on. Everything is designed to be worn back to front. “I like pushing that idea that you can have fewer items in your wardrobe,” said Hourani. Not that he’s not designing other clothes. This capsule goes under the label Rad Hourani, which, he explains, will be a place for higher-end fashion and include any other creative projects, like the short film he shot on Tanga Moreau for his six new pieces. Hourani’s ready-to-wear collection, shown on the runway in New York, now goes by the name RAD by Rad Hourani, formerly his diffusion line.

Hourani reports that retailers worldwide love the idea, many buying the collection in full. Podium in Moscow and Luisa Via Roma in Milan have already placed orders, while luxury Ukrainian department store Sanahunt has done one better and is planning an in-store boutique. And luckily, each piece will come with a video with instructions on its various iterations.

Photo: Courtesy of Rad Hourani

Rad Hourani Gets His Wings, Loves Helmut

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If you’re a fashion person of a certain age, you probably had a Helmut Lang flashback at Rad Hourani’s show. The young Canadian designer had sewn straps inside jackets and vests à la vintage Lang, which he showed shrugged off shoulders and flapping like tailored black angel wings. “I’ve never done it before but I loved it when Helmut did it,” said Hourani. “I think everyone should do it. It’s such an easy, comfortable thing.” For Spring, Hourani continued his unmistakable unisex, monochromatic, clean-and-lean look. And as such, he’s quite pointedly not concerned with change, another reason he feels a connection to our favorite ex-designer Austrian. “Someone said to me, ‘Did you know that Helmut always stuck to this thing and was criticized for not changing enough?’ ” Hourani said. “And I was like, ‘That was genius.’ ” Still, new for Spring was the addition of silver in a trim of chains, steel zips, and an almost robotic silver wool. Currently, Hourani’s biggest retailer is Holt Renfrew, who is considering adding it for men’s, while Seven is his only stockist in New York. But at Monday’s show were some new retail faces from Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman/Neiman Marcus, and Colette. No decisions were made but as Neiman’s Roopal Patel said, “We’re here. We’re interested.”

Photo: Getty Images