78 posts tagged "Raf Simons"
Before Raf Simons was a fashion designer, he was a furniture designer—and also, curiously enough, a ceramics collector. Now, ninety-nine pieces from Simons’ trove of French ceramics dating from the fifties through the seventies are set to go up for auction. This group is the focus of a sale run by the relatively young but influential Paris auction house Piasa. In its sale catalog, Piasa describes five vases by Pol Chambost (above) from the Simons collection as “a perfect fusion between utilitarian objects and works of art.” The works notably informed the designer’s Fall 2009 outing for Jil Sander. “Conveying the curves of his ceramics in fabric was a real challenge,” Simons said of the collection. “Chambost’s work is extremely feminine, and doubtless closer to Dior in a way. People always speak of his ‘floral’ pieces, which, to me, evoke Christian Dior’s Femmes Fleurs.” Other highlights include a biomorphic vase-sculpture by Valentine Schlegel, a group of seven colorful cylinder vases, a coffee table, and Bottle and Apple vases by Georges Jouve. As for why Simons is parting with his ceramic treasures, which he has acquired over the past fifteen years, he offered, “I’m a designer, and for me things are always evolving, and such evolution is necessary. Just because they are being sold does not mean these pieces will be lost, or that I am no longer excited by great French ceramicists. Yes, of course, I’m sorry to see them go. But I’m happy to turn toward different pieces and new horizons.” For a mere 1,000 to 40,000 euros, you too can collect haute pottery when Simons’ ceramics go under the hammer on December 17.
Following her third comeback last year, designer Jil Sander is leaving her namesake brand. Her final collection for the house (which was helmed by Raf Simons from 2005 through 2012) was for Spring ’14. The Jil Sander Group announced today that the Fall ’14 collection will be designed by an in-house team. No word yet on Sander’s successor.
Crusader is as much of a job descriptor for Vivienne Westwood as fashion designer. And among her agendas, no cause resonates more acutely than her crusade to fight climate change. For Spring ’14, the designer sent out models in plastered-and-fractured makeup at Vivienne Westwood Red Label, the effect of which she likened to animals being “trapped” in the headlights. One look, a strapless brocade dress in pale gold and lavender, topped a ratty T-shirt that read “Climate.” Here, the message rang loud and clear. Moreover, Westwood gave out pre-addressed postcards to U.N. Secretary General Ban Ki-moon, instructing editors to write down their own ecological apprehensions.
But Westwood wasn’t the only designer who expressed her environmental concerns this season. Christopher Kane showed metallic teardrop cutouts on dresses—”Sterilized petals,” he called them. He also offered diagrammatic outlines of botanicals, paired with blocky letters spelling “Petal” and “Flower.” His wares appeared to place a conscious emphasis on the synthetic over the natural. At Dior, Raf Simons printed slogans such as “Alice Garden” and “Primrose Path” along brightly colored numbers that seemed to suggest a kind of nuclear summer, mutated wisteria included.
Shifting from terra firma to the big blue sea, Kenzo‘s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon addressed the problem of overfishing: In addition to a few fun aquatic prints, there was a T-shirt that read “No Fish, No Nothing.” “The challenges facing our oceans are a global concern,” Leon told Style.com. “The shirt is an effort to help raise awareness through fashion’s strong voice.” A portion of the garment’s proceeds will go to the Blue Marine Foundation, which battles fish-stock depletion worldwide.