79 posts tagged "Raf Simons"
Crusader is as much of a job descriptor for Vivienne Westwood as fashion designer. And among her agendas, no cause resonates more acutely than her crusade to fight climate change. For Spring ’14, the designer sent out models in plastered-and-fractured makeup at Vivienne Westwood Red Label, the effect of which she likened to animals being “trapped” in the headlights. One look, a strapless brocade dress in pale gold and lavender, topped a ratty T-shirt that read “Climate.” Here, the message rang loud and clear. Moreover, Westwood gave out pre-addressed postcards to U.N. Secretary General Ban Ki-moon, instructing editors to write down their own ecological apprehensions.
But Westwood wasn’t the only designer who expressed her environmental concerns this season. Christopher Kane showed metallic teardrop cutouts on dresses—”Sterilized petals,” he called them. He also offered diagrammatic outlines of botanicals, paired with blocky letters spelling “Petal” and “Flower.” His wares appeared to place a conscious emphasis on the synthetic over the natural. At Dior, Raf Simons printed slogans such as “Alice Garden” and “Primrose Path” along brightly colored numbers that seemed to suggest a kind of nuclear summer, mutated wisteria included.
Shifting from terra firma to the big blue sea, Kenzo‘s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon addressed the problem of overfishing: In addition to a few fun aquatic prints, there was a T-shirt that read “No Fish, No Nothing.” “The challenges facing our oceans are a global concern,” Leon told Style.com. “The shirt is an effort to help raise awareness through fashion’s strong voice.” A portion of the garment’s proceeds will go to the Blue Marine Foundation, which battles fish-stock depletion worldwide.
Forgive us for saying that it seems like designers get together pre-season to discuss ways to flummox journalists: “Let’s do floral, let’s do neoprene, let’s do trapeze, and, to really freak them out, let’s all do it together.”
Fashion conspiracy theory? Probably not, but there is just a hint of truth in it. “I don’t think we pull out these uniform ideas from the ether just like that,” Maria Grachvogel told us backstage at her Spring ’14 show. “We all have our inspirations and references, and sometimes, it all just collides, then we telegraph messages to each other without meaning to. I guess it’s a controlled coincidence.” One of those coincidences this season is the skirt-pants combo. Raf Simons played with the look in his Resort ’14 collection for Dior, and now, London designers have rolled with that ball.
The style opened Osman Yousefzada’s Spring ’14 show. His iteration offered a beautiful white lace overlay (above, right). Simone Rocha produced a pair in a very hip, plasticized crochet (above, center), and Roksanda Ilincic crafted hers in an elegant stiff pleated silk gazar. Meanwhile, Grachvogel presented a dress-trousers hybrid in flowy, diaphanous silk (above, left). Such designers as Naeem Khan have also been up to bat, but being Indian, it should be all but instinctive for him. Said Yousefzada backstage, “It’s the classic kurta silhouette that’s been going on for centuries in India—it’s as ubiquitous as the sari. I can’t figure out why it has taken so long to catch on here.” After this season, we’re guessing that will change.
Oscar winner—and the face of Lady Dior—Marion Cotillard has been tapped to play Lady Macbeth in Justin Kurzel’s upcoming silver-screen interpretation of the Shakespeare tragedy. She’s reportedly replacing Natalie Portman—the face of Miss Dior Chérie—who was originally slotted to play the role. Coincidence or foul play? Either way, we think Raf Simons should take a stab at some tartan couture for the murderous Lady M.
Ask any red-carpet vet or model who knows her way around a pose. Nothing gets the flashbulbs popping quite like peering over the shoulder of a dramatic open-back gown. Lately, designers have been translating that idea to daywear, adding interesting details to the reverse side of looks that are guaranteed to turn heads in the streets. Alexander Wang’s debut Balenciaga collection included a slinky split-back number paired with a sporty bandeau top underneath, and feminine knots adorned the rear views of LBDs in the Resort lineups from Nina Ricci and Burberry Prorsum. On Raf Simons’ Dior Couture catwalk, meanwhile, all eyes lingered on the unexpected, contrasting straps that delicately crisscrossed the models’ jackets as they slunk back down the runway. Talk about a grand exit.
Luca Guadagnino—who became fashion’s favorite filmmaker after featuring Jil Sander by Raf Simons wares in his 2009 flick, I am Love (above)—has tapped Dior to costume his new movie, Body Art. Does that make Raf the body artist?