79 posts tagged "Raf Simons"
Opening Ceremony‘s world tour in style has taken it to Japan, Korea, the U.K., and Argentina. For its latest cultural tourism via fashion import, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim turned their attention to Belgium. For fall 2013, Opening Ceremony welcomes a new crop of Belgium-based designers to its ranks, many for the first time.
The timing is good. Fashion is in the grips of Belgo-mania, it seems. (I don’t say that just because I’ve contrived to make two trips to Antwerp in the past year.) Raf Simons may be going from strength to strength at Dior, but he’s helming the French-est of French lines from his native Antwerp. His namesake men’s collection will soon be on O.C.’s shelves. (He also sat down with Leon for a long interview coming soon to the store’s blog.) Dries Van Noten, one of the original members of the Belgian craze’s first wave in the eighties as part of the Antwerp Six, will be honored with a retrospective at Paris’ Musée Galliera this spring; before then, his men’s and women’s collections will come to O.C. for fall. Belgian cult favorite Veronique Branquinho returned from semi-retirement last season. Her work will be on offer, too. So will that of Belgium’s established lions, many of them underappreciated and understocked in the U.S. (Walter Van Beirendonck, Stephan Schneider), and of many of its up-and-coming guard (Woolmark winner Christian Wijnants, knit line Chauncey, former Cacharel designer Cédric Charlier). Leon and Lim even selected their favorites of the graduating class of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
“It has been especially exciting to put together this yearly focus, because we have the icons and the new masters of Belgium fashion as well as the fresh, young talents all in store,” they said.
Don’t expect a run-of-the-mill fashion film from Raf Simons, especially when he teams up with longtime collaborators, photographer Willy Vanderperre and stylist Olivier Rizzo. The trio turned out a new video befitting Simons’ pensive Fall ’13 menswear offering, the looks in which recalled the designer’s 1999 Kinetic Youth show. “With this collection, Raf went back to his roots and revised it for the now generation,” offered Vanderperre. “Equally, for the stills and the film, we—Raf, Olivier Rizzo, and myself—went back to our roots together, and shot in Stadspark, in Antwerp, our hometown, where some early work that we did together took place.”
The short features a model posing in the wilderness while donning Simons’ Fall wares. Created with a vintage tint, the film’s frames are broken up with bursts of static—a technique that Vanderperre told us taps into the concept of old versus new technology. “Raf always has a sense of nostalgia for the future,” added the photographer. Catch the debut of Raf Simons’ Fall film and corresponding campaign here, exclusively on Style.com.
Beginning today, a mash-up of pop-culture enthusiasts, movie stars, and old-school Marvel collectors will descend on San Diego for the annual Comic-Con International. While you’re more likely to catch members of the fashion set waiting hours in line for an exclusive sample sale than a sneak preview of the new Captain America film, designers and tastemakers have latched onto cartoonish prints. A case in point is Raf Simons, who featured charming Andy Warhol sketches on his Fall runway for Dior, and scattered vibrant pop-art motifs (and text blocks that read “Artificially flavored” and “This is the new shape”) throughout his namesake menswear line for Spring. Disney-style swallows flitted across a shirt at London’s MAN show, and Bambi himself was stamped on Riccardo Tisci’s collection-opening sweatshirt at Givenchy. But Mickey always wins. Miley Cyrus and street-style maven Carlotta Oddi, among others, have gone Mouseketeer lately.
Perhaps it was The Great Gatsby‘s influence, but there was a lot of pink on the Spring ’14 menswear catwalks. However, while Jay Gatsby favored rosebud three-piece suits, designers this season employed the hue for their footwear.
In London, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff showed Crayola-pink rain boots in their eponymous collection. The boys added some of their signature kitsch by printing grinning Cheshire cat-like faces on the toes. Similarly, Tom Ford paired one of his bright, slim, dandyish looks with magenta tiger-striped slippers.
Further down the circuit, Raf Simons used pink banding across boots at his own label, while Hedi Slimane whipped up pointy-toed rockabilly booties in Barbie blush at Saint Laurent. Antwerpen provocateur Walter Van Beirendonck rounds out the bunch, having embellished his folk-inspired wingtips with roseate phalli. The kicks lent new credence to the term “foot fetish.”
For all his love of the social whirl and grand parties, Christian Dior was a man who prized nothing more than a garden retreat. As a boy, he picked up a green thumb and his lifelong love of flowers from his mother, Madeleine, whom he helped landscape the gardens of his childhood home—a belle epoque villa called Les Rhumbs, in Granville, Normandy. Of this house, Dior wrote, “My life and my style owe almost everything to its location and architecture.”
And so it was that at the tail end of a Couture season brimming with parties, the house of Dior whisked a handful of journalists off by helicopter to Normandy to visit Christian Dior’s childhood home and get a sense of where it all started.
Set on a bluff overlooking the Atlantic and what could only be called a Dior-gray sky, the pinkish-hued Les Rhumbs appears much as it must have when Dior was young—minus the tennis club next door. The hedgerow labyrinth mentioned in Dior’s 1957 memoir, Dior by Dior, remains, as do the pergola and garden furniture he designed himself. The Dior family owned the villa until the thirties, when financial hardship forced them to sell the house and all its contents. The designer never returned there, but his spirit remains: The gardens opened to the public in the late thirties, and sixty years later, in 1997, Les Rhumbs became home to the Christian Dior Museum. Continue Reading “At Home With Christian Dior” »