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August 27 2014

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4 posts tagged "Rag and Bone"

Rag & Bone, a No Show for Spring 2015

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CFDA / VOGUE FASHION FASHION FUND AMERICANS IN CHINA FASHION SHOW - PRESHOW

Rag & Bone is the latest fashion brand to ditch the traditional runway show altogether. Instead, the New York-based label, helmed by Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, is doing a portrait series featuring customers and celebrities sporting its Spring 2015 men’s collection.

“For Spring ’15, our instinct was to challenge traditional ways to present a collection, and instead of a show or going down the traditional fashion photography route, we envisioned a cool and elevated portrait series,” Wainwright tells WWD. For the photos, Rag & Bone enlisted the help of a few friends, including NBA (and fashion) star Carmelo Anthony, tattoo artist Alex McWatt, model Camille Rowe, and photographer Glen Luchford. The series was lensed by Brit portrait photographer Andreas Laszlo Konrath.

Rag & Bone has been experimenting with its men’s show for a few seasons now, using moving mirrors and mixed media to challenge the more standard format. But the brand’s latest move is part of an ongoing, industry-wide shift toward alternative (and more cost-effective) ways to showcase a collection.

Back in 2008, Stefano Pilati made a groundbreaking decision to present his Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche menswear collection through a film. Viktor & Rolf followed the format and did a Web-only show for its Spring 2009 collection. Dozens of other labels have since followed, and it’s starting to become the norm. The question is: Who else will soon abandon the elaborate fashion show?

Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com

On Inspiration And Arm Candy At The New Yorker Festival

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It was a bit of a motley crew that The New Yorker pulled together for Fashion Forward, a panel discussion, moderated by staff writer Judith Thurman, that was part of its New Yorker Festival offerings in New York this weekend. Five New York-based designers—Naeem Khan, Phillip Lim, Maria Cornejo, and Rag & Bone boys Marcus Wainwright and David Neville—came to chat and show four looks each from their Fall collections. Presented next to each other, they stood in dramatic relief. But among the designers’ opinions, there was an overwhelming sense of agreement.

First, there was the headache of dealing with the less-than-glamorous obligations of running a brand—all of the labels are independently owned. “The worst thing is to put your heart and soul into something and see it on the sale rack,” Lim said about balancing creativity with commerce. Second, there was the matter of the melting pot as inspiration; none of those present were born in the U.S., resulting in global references that ran the gamut from Scottish Harris tweeds that survived Mt. Everest (Rag & Bone) to 300 hours of hand-beading and metalwork from Rajasthan, India (Khan).

At the closing Q&A, an audience member put an interesting question to the assembled: Would they prefer to dress Michelle Obama or Carla Bruni-Sarkozy? Khan, whose star shot to the stratosphere after Mrs. O donned his gold gown for the administration’s first state dinner, picked the First Lady, naturally. And then so did the rest of the panel, although for various reasons. “I’ve met Carla Bruni before and there’s not much up there,” said Cornejo (left, with Lim). About Obama, she was more approving. “She’s actually doing things that are interesting,” the Chilean-born designer said. “She’s not just arm candy.”

Photo: Neilson Barnard / Getty Images

Rag & Bone Are Feeling Free

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Mark Borthwick has got Rag & Bone dancing to his tune. Tomorrow night, R&B designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright are hosting a party at the brand’s Soho store to fête their collaboration with the photographer—shots of Rag & Bone friends and family that Wainwright describes as “the perfect blend of Mark’s irreverent take on modern fashion photography and Rag & Bone’s downtown New York-meets-tailored workwear aesthetic.” The perfect blend’s been a long time coming. Neville first met Borthwick on a beach in Mexico about ten years ago: “He was playing a guitar around a campfire,” the designer recalls. “It was a very liberating experience.” Jessica Stam, Edita Vilkeviciute, and Julien d’Ys are among the subjects who got a taste of liberation, Borthwick-style, for the shoot. The shots will be on view at the label’s Soho store starting tomorrow, but we’ve got your first look here on Style File today. Continue Reading “Rag & Bone Are Feeling Free” »

The Gang’s All Here

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Trunk shows have largely been the province of the designer floor. No more. Next week, Barneys’ Madison Avenue flagship plays host to Trunk-a-Palooza, a more-the-merrier trunk show and party featuring contemporary brands sold in the store’s Co-Op. Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright and David Neville (pictured), Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos, Alexander Wang, Richard Chai, Vena Cava’s Lisa Mayock, Victoria Bartlett, and more will be on hand to hawk their Fall collections, not to mention limited editions like S&H silkscreened posters, Vena Cava mix CDs, and the medal pendants Rag & Bone used for its Spring 2010 show. There’ll be a DJ on hand, too, but despite this, and the music-fest name, we’re pretty sure moshing is still frowned upon.

Trunk-a-Palooza runs from 2 to 8 p.m. (designer appearances from 5 p.m.) on Wednesday, April 21, at Barneys, 660 Madison Ave., 7th fl., NYC, (212) 826-8900, www.barneys.com.

PLUS: Don’t forget our interview with Barneys New York fashion director Julie Gilhart on the future of fashion.

Photo: JIMI CELESTE/PatrickMcMullan.com