79 posts tagged "Ralph Lauren"
During New York fashion week, pale pink was the street-style color of choice, at least as far as coats were concerned. Ever since Carven sent pastel cocoon coats down the runway last September, we’ve coveted a rosy topper—this editor even surrendered to one. And while by week’s end the pale-hued jackets felt all but ubiquitous, the last day of the New York collections began to validate my purchase.
Both Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs cast cloudy variations of neutrals, muddled blues, frothy greens, and lilacs down the runway. We saw comparable wares (plush pink coat included) from Francisco Costa earlier at Calvin Klein Pre-Fall. Marc Jacobs’ girls, with their pristine beauty looks, were visions of almost unattainable perfection—almost like femme fatales from the future. In London Christopher Kane sang a similar tune: His models seemed prepared to conquer all elements—rosé-colored dresses finished with swirled sleeves made a fembot-esque statement. But we had to wonder, would the Italian designers follow suit? Yesterday, Frida Giannini’s pastel-powered Gucci girls took charge in sixties-infused monochromatic shirt-and-suit combos in sage green, baby blue, and sandy pink. While we can appreciate Madonna in a double-breasted Ralph Lauren tuxedo, this color theory is proof that we don’t need to borrow from the boys or opt for a classic black-and-white combo to state our claim as H.B.I.C.
Word came this morning that Ralph Lauren, in a move to capitalize on their burgeoning luxury goods business, has appointed Valérie Hermann president of Ralph Lauren Luxury Collections. Hermann previously headed up operations at Yves Saint Laurent and, most recently, Reed Krakoff (she announced her plans to leave yesterday). According to WWD, the exec will report to Mr. Lauren himself.
In the end, perhaps fashion isn’t so complicated. It boils down to this: How do I find my signature and how do I develop it over time? Three things that people have said to me on this subject have stuck in my mind:
Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele (stylist): “I get inspiration from Mr. Alaïa, Mr. Lagerfeld. They know, you know? They know. They are not like all these young designers who change every six months. I think this is strange, because when you have talent inside, you never really change.”
Azzedine Alaïa (designer): “It’s inconceivable to me that someone creative can have a new idea every two months. Because if I have one new idea in a year, I thank heaven.”
Riccardo Tisci (designer), speaking approvingly of Hedi Slimane’s tenure at Saint Laurent: “I think Hedi, he wrote his first chapter [i.e., at Dior Homme] in a capital of fashion, and then he took his time off, and then he started from the same page. It’s like when you go to bed and you’re reading a book: You do the little corner, and then the night after, you start from the same page. And the aesthetic that he does really belongs to him. For sure, it is something that doesn’t look like anybody else, and that’s what I like.”
These thoughts were thrown into particularly sharp relief during a busy day of shows in New York yesterday.
What’s more remarkable about Kors: the fact that he’s now worth a billion dollars or the fact that, after three decades in business, he isn’t resting on his laurels? With his last two collections, he has brought his vision of American luxury into razor-sharp focus.
A very different designer from Kors, of course, but in his own way as American as apple pie or Pop Art. Scott has done what you do if you have your own signature: lived through a few seasons where he enjoyed the support of the faithful—and it’s some faithful; he draws the liveliest crowd in town (hey there, Jared Leto)—but didn’t have the full attention of the fashion press. Thanks to his recent appointment as creative director of Moschino, he’s firmly back in the media spotlight. He didn’t waste the opportunity, delivering a collection that riffed confidently on two great American pastimes: sex and sports.
How do you define the signature of a commercial juggernaut, best known for its menswear, which is now making a serious push into womenswear? That’s Jason Wu’s brief at Hugo Boss. He’s started to do it with the collateral: an Inez and Vinoodh-shot campaign; Gwyneth Paltrow as the face of the fragrance. And his debut collection? As Nicole Phelps said in her review, “Wu’s challenge going forward will be to maintain the Boss polish while figuring out ways to loosen up and have a bit more fun.”
I would be remiss not to mention Sui in this recap. She is one of the treasures of the New York calendar. Here’s Tim Blanks on what made her latest collection such a decadent delight.
Krakoff has been giving this subject a great deal of thought lately. After a few collections that felt the anxiety of European influence, he is now focused on creating his version of American luxury. Read Nicole Phelps’ review here.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were part of a pack of young New York designers who broke through in the last decade. When they celebrated their tenth anniversary a couple of years ago, they decided to drill down on their label’s identity, starting with a powerful but understated new logo. Their aesthetic, now reliably their own, is rooted in the contemporary New York art world. It’s no coincidence that yesterday’s show took place at Gavin Brown’s Enterprise, a gallery in the West Village.
IT’S RALPH, THOUGH
As it happens, I’m writing this after seeing Ralph Lauren’s show on this snowy Thursday morning. Lauren showed looks from his Polo line alongside his top-end collection today, and the move invigorated him. These clothes were as clear and direct as a Hemingway sentence. If America didn’t exist, Ralph Lauren would have had to invent it.
Ralph Lauren won’t be the only one outfitting America’s athletes for the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. Burton, too, has created some duds for the competitors—specifically, the snowboarding team. The kit’s oatmeal wool beanies, camel long johns, and eggshell yellow gloves don’t exactly scream patriotism. However, with their weathered stars and stripes motifs, the patchwork cream, blue, gingham, and plaid hooded parkas scream vintage Americana. Go forth and shred it in style, Team U.S.A.