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August 30 2014

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83 posts tagged "Ralph Lauren"

Valérie Hermann Heads to Ralph Lauren

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The Metropolitan Opera Opens With Donizetti's "La Fille Du Regiment"Word came this morning that Ralph Lauren, in a move to capitalize on their burgeoning luxury goods business, has appointed Valérie Hermann president of Ralph Lauren Luxury Collections. Hermann previously headed up operations at Yves Saint Laurent and, most recently, Reed Krakoff (she announced her plans to leave yesterday). According to WWD, the exec will report to Mr. Lauren himself.

The Morning After: Our EIC Recaps Yesterday’s Action

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JEREMY SCOTT Fall 2014 Fashion Show

In the end, perhaps fashion isn’t so complicated. It boils down to this: How do I find my signature and how do I develop it over time? Three things that people have said to me on this subject have stuck in my mind:

Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele (stylist): “I get inspiration from Mr. Alaïa, Mr. Lagerfeld. They know, you know? They know. They are not like all these young designers who change every six months. I think this is strange, because when you have talent inside, you never really change.”

Azzedine Alaïa (designer): “It’s inconceivable to me that someone creative can have a new idea every two months. Because if I have one new idea in a year, I thank heaven.”

Riccardo Tisci (designer), speaking approvingly of Hedi Slimane’s tenure at Saint Laurent: “I think Hedi, he wrote his first chapter [i.e., at Dior Homme] in a capital of fashion, and then he took his time off, and then he started from the same page. It’s like when you go to bed and you’re reading a book: You do the little corner, and then the night after, you start from the same page. And the aesthetic that he does really belongs to him. For sure, it is something that doesn’t look like anybody else, and that’s what I like.”

These thoughts were thrown into particularly sharp relief during a busy day of shows in New York yesterday.

MICHAEL KORS
What’s more remarkable about Kors: the fact that he’s now worth a billion dollars or the fact that, after three decades in business, he isn’t resting on his laurels? With his last two collections, he has brought his vision of American luxury into razor-sharp focus.

JEREMY SCOTT
A very different designer from Kors, of course, but in his own way as American as apple pie or Pop Art. Scott has done what you do if you have your own signature: lived through a few seasons where he enjoyed the support of the faithful—and it’s some faithful; he draws the liveliest crowd in town (hey there, Jared Leto)—but didn’t have the full attention of the fashion press. Thanks to his recent appointment as creative director of Moschino, he’s firmly back in the media spotlight. He didn’t waste the opportunity, delivering a collection that riffed confidently on two great American pastimes: sex and sports.

HUGO BOSS
How do you define the signature of a commercial juggernaut, best known for its menswear, which is now making a serious push into womenswear? That’s Jason Wu’s brief at Hugo Boss. He’s started to do it with the collateral: an Inez and Vinoodh-shot campaign; Gwyneth Paltrow as the face of the fragrance. And his debut collection? As Nicole Phelps said in her review, “Wu’s challenge going forward will be to maintain the Boss polish while figuring out ways to loosen up and have a bit more fun.”

ANNA SUI
I would be remiss not to mention Sui in this recap. She is one of the treasures of the New York calendar. Here’s Tim Blanks on what made her latest collection such a decadent delight.

REED KRAKOFF
Krakoff has been giving this subject a great deal of thought lately. After a few collections that felt the anxiety of European influence, he is now focused on creating his version of American luxury. Read Nicole Phelps’ review here.

PROENZA SCHOULER
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were part of a pack of young New York designers who broke through in the last decade. When they celebrated their tenth anniversary a couple of years ago, they decided to drill down on their label’s identity, starting with a powerful but understated new logo. Their aesthetic, now reliably their own, is rooted in the contemporary New York art world. It’s no coincidence that yesterday’s show took place at Gavin Brown’s Enterprise, a gallery in the West Village.

IT’S RALPH, THOUGH
As it happens, I’m writing this after seeing Ralph Lauren’s show on this snowy Thursday morning. Lauren showed looks from his Polo line alongside his top-end collection today, and the move invigorated him. These clothes were as clear and direct as a Hemingway sentence. If America didn’t exist, Ralph Lauren would have had to invent it.

Photo: Patrick McMullan Company 

Runway to Red Carpet: Elegant Award Shows and a Dressed-Down Film Fest

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Brit MarlingBetween the continued Awards Season craze and the laid-back glam of the Sundance Film Festival, the celebrity set had plenty of red-carpet moments this week. America’s new darling (fashion and otherwise) Lupita Nyong’o and Helen Mirren, who both picked up trophies at Saturday’s Screen Actors Guild Awards, strutted their stuff at the Producers Guild Awards the following evening. Nyong’o chose a figure-hugging Stella McCartney dress with an asymmetrical shoulder, while Mirren opted for a long-sleeved silver Fall ’13 Elie Saab gown embroidered with crystals. The ladies were joined on Sunday’s red carpet by Nyong’o's 12 Years a Slave castmate Sarah Paulson, who donned a sequined Marc Jacobs frock with floral embellishments from the designer’s memorable Spring ’14 runway.

While many celebrities opt for the casual sweater-and-jeans look during the chilly Sundance Film Festival, actresses Elizabeth Banks and Brit Marling’s red-carpet appearances struck the perfect balance between comfort and glamour. Banks paired a black-and-white grid-patterned Spring ’14 Ralph Lauren dress with black knee-high boots for an event on Tuesday, and Marling chose a black Proenza Schouler pantsuit with chalk-white details from the brand’s Spring ’14 lineup at the premiere of I Origins on Saturday. Marling continued to be a red-carpet highlight throughout the week, stepping out in Christopher Kane and Mulberry at another pair of events. No doubt, this duo is upping the festival’s sartorial game.

Here, more of this week’s red-carpet highlights.

Photo: George Pimentel / Getty Images 

Burton Tricks-Out Team U.S.A.

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Burton's uniforms for the US Olympic Snowboarding teamRalph Lauren won’t be the only one outfitting America’s athletes for the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. Burton, too, has created some duds for the competitors—specifically, the snowboarding team. The kit’s oatmeal wool beanies, camel long johns, and eggshell yellow gloves don’t exactly scream patriotism. However, with their weathered stars and stripes motifs, the patchwork cream, blue, gingham, and plaid hooded parkas scream vintage Americana. Go forth and shred it in style, Team U.S.A.

Photo: Courtesy of Burton

Made In The U.S.A.

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Ralph Lauren's Olympic UniformsThe 2014 Olympic Games in Sochi, Russia, are fast approaching, and today, Ralph Lauren—the official outfitter of Team U.S.A.—has unveiled the athletes’ closing ceremony garb. Lauren, who’s been dressing America’s Olympians since 2008, caught some flack last year for producing the sports stars’ uniforms in China, but this time around, RL made sure that each and every stitch was done right here in the U.S. of A. The team’s Opening Ceremony ensembles will be revealed closer to the games, which kick off on February 7.

Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren