24 posts tagged "Rei Kawakubo"
From the Keith Haring installation to a giant Barbie display to entire worlds created by Tim Walker, Gilbert & George, Chanel, and Lanvin, the windows of Rei Kawakubo’s London concept boutique Dover Street Market (which is slotted to open in New York later this year) have become somewhat of an institution. So when the storefront is lent to a young designer, it’s a veritable rite of passage. Earlier this year, rising star Simone Rocha built an Irish wilderness behind Dover Street’s glass facade. And today, Phoebe English—a 27-year old Central Saint Martins graduate who won the coveted L’Oréal Professional award upon her graduation in 2011—takes the stage, mounting her first project for the shop. “They were my first stockist,” said English, who’s now been selling at Dover Street for four seasons. “We’ve been working on this for a long time. And it’s been very challenging because it’s such a different thing than putting together a collection.”
English has a penchant for combining unexpected materials in her wares—synthetic hair and strips of rubber, for example. So naturally, her installation, a giant, ethereal icy-blue orb that combines shreds of fabric and glass beads from her Spring ’13 collection (above, left), follows suit. “It’s a bit of a play on contradiction. I liked that the solidity of the sphere contrasted against the irregular textiles and beads,” she explained, noting that her sculpture had an intergalactic inspiration (“I quite like planets and stars,” she giggled). As for why she decided to forgo a clothing-based display, English offered, “I felt that it would be too literal. Dover Street is such a creative garment-based space already, and it felt right to push my creative thought in a new direction.” English’s windows will be on view through May 29, and her Spring ’13 collection is available now at Dover Street Market’s London boutique.
Check back tomorrow to watch our complete live coverage. Photos from throughout the night, here.
WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen for The Row
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR
Joseph Altuzarra (pictured)
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR MENSWEAR
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR ACCESSORY DESIGN
GEOFFREY BEENE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons
Scott Schuman and Garance Doré
FASHION ICON AWARD
In this week’s Rei Kawakubo tribute on Style.com, Taylor Tomasi Hill wears lots of covetable Comme pieces, but she’s also sporting a pair of neon orange reflective shades from Westward Leaning that might be catching your fancy. We’ve had our eyes on (or behind, rather) these sunglasses since the San Francisco-based label launched in March, and more recently, Style.com’s market director, Marina Larroude, featured a pair of the unisex mirrored lenses in her Techno Beach story. Now they’re giving us more to love—they have just unveiled the neon style with white frames ($165). And you can feel good buying them because this is a brand with vision; for every pair sold, Westward Leaning donates to $10 to the specific charity associated with each style.
For the 12 fashion obsessives I met and photographed for Style.com’s tribute to Rei Kawakubo, this year’s CFDA International Award honoree, wearing Comme des Garçons is a badge of honor and a signal of membership in what amounts to a secret society. (It is also, for many of them, an everyday occurrence. Business comme d’habitude, you could say—as usual.) Kawakubo is one of fashion’s most sphinxlike practitioners: no interviews, no inspirations, no chummy glad-handing backstage after the show. What’s fascinating about Comme is that it is its own only explanation, however you choose to wear it—whether perfectly in line with convention or, for some, at war with it. Each person profiled managed to make Comme their own, which, as far as I’m concerned, is an incredible litmus test for any label. It’s also a reminder that—though this is a tired cliché—fashion can be, and often is, art. It’s a sentiment I heard over and over again while discussing CDG with its devotees, like Carolyn Wade (pictured), the Birmingham-based art collector who likes her Comme as shocking as possible. If that occasionally raises eyebrows, as with her famous Spring ’97 “bumps” look, it has also endeared her to other artists. Wade wore the look we photographed her in at a benefit in New York years ago when she ran into the late, great artist Robert Rauschenberg, who assumed from her outfit that she was a dancer with Merce Cunningham. (Cunningham had costumed his dancers in the same dresses.) When she ran into Rauschenberg at a second benefit at the Guggenheim the following week, she happened to be wearing it again. “I said, if I’d known I’d see you twice in the same week, I would have worn a different dress,” she told me with a laugh. “He said, go in the bathroom, turn that on the wrong side, and you’ll have a different dress.” She didn’t take him up on the suggestion, but I persuaded her to give it a try. The result is at left. Inside out or right side in, it’s an original. If you ask me—and I suspect any of our 12 subjects—they’d tell you that’s what makes it Comme, too.