3 posts tagged "Rena Lange"
After seven years, Berlin Fashion Week is solidly in its sophomore phase. The surge of energy that initially propelled it has waned, with major regional fashion houses such as Joop!, Hugo Boss and Rena Lange bowing out, while internationally renowned German designers like Jil Sander and Kostas Murkudis never participated. Yet optimism unites the fifty-one designers currently presenting collections on the Mercedes Benz catwalk. Bright, clear, confident yellow – the color of sunshine and high hopes – has beamed onto most catwalks during BFW’s past three days.
Vladimir Karaleev, an insiders’ favorite for his roughly finished and sculptural creations, showed a coat made from an unhemmed sunny jacquard silk which could have upholstered a chair in Louis XIV’s living quarters. Models sported fist-sized Marigold corsages over denim and cocktail attire at Marc Cain. Laurèl launched its show with a jumpsuit, shift, skirt and trousers in the same yellow and white lacework print. Young designer Rebekka Ruétz, a beacon for the Berlin fashion scene, presented variations of a tangy tie-dye print in belted blazers, leggings, jumpsuits and skirts under white chiffon veils. And Rike Feurstein suited a model in genteel high-waisted lemony trousers with a matching net breastplate and shoulder-pads the size of hats. Surreal or pragmatic, yellow was the tone of optimism for Berlin’s stalwart designers.
Throughout Berlin fashion week, Alonso Dominguez will report back on the best and brightest shows. To view our complete coverage, click here.
The last day of Berlin fashion week kicked off with Issever Bahri (left)—a young label (founded in 2010) designed by German-Turkish duo Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri. For Fall ’13, the pair put forth a minimal, neutral collection of long silk shirts and oversize knits. These were worn with black leather trousers and short skirts in wool velvet. Demure dresses brought a youthful femininity to the collection.
Over at Vladimir Karaleev, deconstruction was the name of the game. The conceptual designer sent men and women in unfinished gabardine, wool, and rubber garments down his runway. Key looks included a cream woven sweater with a mesh detail that exposed the model’s torso and a cropped see-through-plastic electric blue jacket with faux-fur sleeves.
At Dawid Tomaszewski, one of the most anticipated shows of the week, there were smoky-eyed models wearing sculptural black and dark gray looks in leather and silk. Applications like rubber patches on tights and copper-colored metallic belts and cummerbunds gave the collection a futuristic feel, while baded embroidery and carefully tailored jackets and capes were evidence of the designer’s attention to detail.
Michael Michalsky’s show—the last of the evening—was held at an off-site location. For men, there were rolled-up trousers, dark blazers, and leather jackets. Illustrator Bendix Bauer designed Michalsky’s custom Fall print, which appeared on trousers, shirts, and a suit. For the ladies, the designer showed long silk and lace dresses and skirts paired with thick coats, dark blazers, or sequined jackets. Mini polka dots covered aqua blouses and long skirts, and the black chiffon finale gown—nipped at the waist with a bowed belt—closed the show (and for that matter, Berlin fashion week) with a flash of drama.
In between the men’s shows and Couture (kicking off today), you could be forgiven for bypassing Bebelplatz. But Berlin fashion week, which ended yesterday, sent out several polished collections last week, and celebs like Tilda Swinton and Chloë Sevigny found time to touch down in the front rows.
For trend trackers, the seventies mood that prevailed for Spring may not be going anywhere soon: Rena Lange, Laurèl (above, right), Allude, and Schumacher worked a Me Decade vibe—think a long-locked and fresh-faced Meryl Streep as muse. For something a little more structured, Hugo by Hugo Boss turned out sleek, crisp daywear and cocktail looks in a palette of black, red, and white. (The elegant show at the Neue Nationalgalerie attracted the aforementioned celebs.) For Berlin’s rowdy nightlife scene, Kaviar Gauche’s PVC tees, paired with cream-colored silk trousers, could be a good bet; and Vladimir Karaleev’s sculptural wool pieces (above, left), inspired by repeated listenings to Nirvana’s Unplugged, have a grunge sensibility that feels as fresh now as it did the first time around.
Leyla Piedayesh’s sophisticated and sexy Lala Berlin collection (above) continues to be a Berlin highlight. Inspired by children’s arts and crafts, dresses, trousers, and full, boxy suits came printed in emerald, blue, and acid lemon, a pattern like marbled paper. The shimmery details on a tiny, slinky dress looked like glitter or sprinkles, but this was a grown-up collection.