17 posts tagged "Renzo Rosso"
The impressive second-quarter results posted recently by the Yoox Group, Italy’s e-commerce giant, was further proof that the future of high fashion lies online. But can CEO Federico Marchetti (left) work the same magic with fine art? It has been on his mind since he launched Yoox fourteen years ago. “I’ve always had the notion of the one-stop shop, with a mixture of modern and vintage, clothes and furniture,” he says. “The art component is the one that closes the circle.”
Marchetti tested the waters last October with Damien Hirst, Grayson Perry, and the first-ever edition by Italy’s top Pop artist Francesco Vezzoli. “He did it to help earthquake relief in Emilia-Romagna, where I’m from,” explains Marchetti. “We did an edition of 399 priced at 399 euros, dollars, or pounds.” Yoox is now providing corporate sponsorship for Vezzoli’s Trinity, a series of three exhibitions in three cities, the first in Rome now until November 24, the second opening at New York’s MoMA PS1 in the fall, and the third at the Museum of Contemporary Art in L.A. in early winter.
But any multimillion-dollar business can cough up sponsorship dollars. It was Padiglione Crepaccio (below), the much humbler Yoox initiative during the opening days of the Venice Biennale, which cast a more interesting light on Marchetti’s intentions in the art world. Curator Caroline Corbetta assembled work by ten Venetian artists under 30—the sort of creative types who are usually overlooked when the Biennale’s grand caravan rolls into town every two years—and exhibited the result in the house where three of them live. (A very nice piece of old Venice it was, too, calculated to make starving artists everywhere else in the world utterly puce with envy.) The twist was that the exhibition preview was online. “Like Saatchi, but in reverse,” says Marchetti. “Everyone else got to see it online before the art-world elite got there.” Which didn’t stop heavy hitters like Vezzoli, Diesel’s Renzo Rosso, and cherished art-world provocateur Maurizio Cattelan (a patron saint to young Italian artists) from showing up in person at the opening.
With his Acne jeans and his Lobb shoes, Marchetti is almost correct when he describes himself as the Yoox customer. And he was setting a good example by shopping for art at Padiglione Crepaccio. (In keeping with the initiative, it was only possible to buy the pieces on the iPads provided, even if you were standing right in front of the art and the artist). Right now, Marchetti is picturing art on Yoox as “something like a TV talent show, 99 percent talent, 1 percent the special X factor.” But going forward, he imagines people picking up “a pair of jeans and a painting” when they visit the site. “It’s part of the plan to make yoox.com a playful lifestyle,” he adds. “But playful in a serious way. It’s not the Amazon approach. We’re serious about collaboration.” Serious enough, in fact, to partner with the legendary photo agency Magnum—its first venture into e-commerce—and Hirst’s publishing company, Other Criteria.
But when Marchetti insists, “Surprise is the beauty of Yoox,” I flip back to the young artists in Venice, in particular a painter called Thomas Braida. With talent like his in the equation, people are going to be picking up way more than one painting with their pair of jeans.
“We’re celebrating here!” said Nicola Formichetti, by phone from Diesel’s headquarters in Italy this morning. The reason: The announcement was made today that Formichetti, as was much-rumored when he left his creative director post at Mugler this week, is joining Diesel as its first artistic director. “Mugler was all about creating luxury, and fantasy, and bringing the dream and the entertainment into an already existing brand,” Formichetti said. “At Diesel, I want to talk straight into people’s hearts, people in the street.” Here, Formichetti lays out his plans to put Diesel denim back on the map.
Thank you so much. Actually, I’m presenting my first project today. It’s our initiative of the Reboot Campaign. It’s the advertisements, starting from June. So it’s the visual side, and we’re going to start a big digital community on Tumblr first. And I want to crowd-source using social media and start getting the armies together, because I can’t do this alone. We need lots of people’s help, and it’ll be a great way to meet new talent and designers and artists. Because Diesel’s such a global brand; the team should be global, too.
Tell me more about the Reboot project.
You can actually go to the Diesel Reboot page. You can just go there, and I’ve already reblogged some of the stuff I liked online. We go in, and you guys can join the community and tell us who you are and what you like. And we’re going to have little missions, so for the first mission, we’ll ask, “What’s your favorite thing?” And another mission would be, “How would you like to see this change?” Or “How would you customize this denim?” And then we’ll give an award per mission. So you’ll get something back. It’s kind of like a dialogue. It’s a new way of using social media, and I’m super excited for that.
What, exactly, does “artistic director” mean? What will your role at Diesel entail?
I’ll be directing the collection. So I’ll look at the entire company—from the clothing to the products, the shows, the marketing, the store experiences, the advertising. All the details. It’s so crazy.
What most interests you about the company?
Well, I love that if you have a great product, and if you have great communication, you can actually get to people. Because that really didn’t happen with me at Mugler. I wasn’t seeing a cool guy wearing my clothes on the street. Yes, Gaga wore it. Beyoncé wore it. But what I wanted was to see someone—like, a cool girl—wearing my jackets or pants on the street randomly. Continue Reading “Diesel, Now Unleaded: Nicola Formichetti On His Expansion Plans” »
After two days of rumors following Nicola Formichetti’s departure from Mugler this week, WWD now confirms that the stylist has been named Diesel’s first artistic director. According to Diesel founder Renzo Rosso, Formichetti—who noted that he’s got a lot of “crazy ideas” for the label—will be responsible for a “total view” of the Diesel brand. His impact will first be seen in the Fall 2013 season. “I finally met somebody as crazy as I am,” Rosso told WWD. “I have replaced myself and can go on vacation.”
After six seasons at the helm of Diesel’s Black Gold women’s line, designer Sophia Kokosalaki (pictured) is set to part ways with the label after her New York fashion week show next month. In a statement released by Diesel, she says, “The last three years I have spent at Diesel Black Gold have been a very interesting and enjoyable experience. I am now looking forward to new challenges and wish Diesel Black Gold every success in the future.” Of her departure, Diesel founder Renzo Rosso says, “I am extremely grateful to Sophia for her work and the achievement of the growth of this line. Also, thanks to her talent, Diesel Black Gold has defined its clear identity as a premium stand-alone label.” The brand’s new designer will reportedly be announced in early October.
Do-gooding eyewear guys Warby Parker have announced their newest venture: A chew-resistant optical line for dogs called Warby Barker. The label even has its own spokeswomen, of both human and canine varieties: Moda Operandi’s Taylor Tomasi Hill and Martha the bassett hound (pictured). Strange but true? All we’ll say is we notice the line was announced yesterday, April 1. [Warby Parker]
Speaking of, committed prankster Renzo Rosso put Diesel up for sale on eBay yesterday. WWD reports that Diesel fans immediately responded with offers to buy the company, but an hour after Rosso posted it on eBay, the listing was removed. [WWD]
The Angelina Jolie leg jokes are not over yet—several stars turned up to the Academy of Country Music Awards yesterday showing more than a little leg. Carrie Underwood, Sara Evans, and Luke Bryan’s wife, Caroline Bryan, all had thigh-high slits in their dresses and posed Jolie-style. [Huff Po]
More details are emerging on H&M’s soon-to-launch higher-priced label. According to the Swedish news outlet Dagens Nyheter, the retailer has reportedly registered trademarks and a logo for a new brand called “& Other Stories”—no joke. [Vogue U.K.]