2 posts tagged "Resort ’14"
Compared with his previous collections, Eddie Borgo’s Resort ’14 range is a horse of a different color—mainly because it has so many colors. The designer, best known for his upmarket punk aesthetic and baubles of gunmetal, pavéd crystals, and gold, found inspiration in the Color Field artists of the 1960s. The result is a vibrant mash-up of wares that are at once delicate and tough, playful and elegant. “I started collecting books a little while ago on Kenneth Noland, who is one of the great Color Field artists,” explains the ever-erudite Borgo of his research. This preliminary reading led him to artists Josef Albers, Sol LeWitt, and Dan Flavin, all of whom are reflected in his gold- and silver-plated designs set with stones, colored glass, enamel, semi-precious stones, and cubic zirconia. Borgo suggests stacking his primary- and tertiary-hued chokers, rings, and bangles, and judging by what we saw in his showroom, the effect is retro sophisticate, rather than rainbow bright.
“Color is something that we’re constantly drilled about from a sales perspective,” explained Borgo, who’s not just design-minded, but business savvy, too. “So I figured if we were going to do color, let’s make sure that it’s referenced in an interesting way, and that it makes sense with what we do.” To wit, many of Resort’s pieces are not only meant to be combined with other designs from Resort, but also with classic hits from Borgo’s past outings.
This season also marks Borgo’s first estate-inspired jewelry, which came about after resetting a pair of vintage gemstones for a friend’s wedding. “We put our own spin on [those earrings], and I loved them so much when we finished that I started to play around with that style.” They may reference the past, but Borgo’s chunky, two-toned glass and cubic zirconia bracelets, earrings, and necklaces are decidedly modern, and could easily twinkle on any red carpet.
It would seem Borgo enjoyed his experiments with pigment, and we can expect another spin on the color wheel soon. “This collection is a precursor to what we’re doing for spring, so color is something we’ll be continuing at least into next season.” No doubt, his fans will be tickled pink.
The Met’s Punk: Chaos to Couture curator, Andrew Bolton, reportedly professed that pink is the color of punk. But, judging by the Resort collections, such associations are all but gone. Designers are swapping angst for allure, offering a noticeably softer take on all things coral and flush. Michael Kors, for example, afforded a bubblegum-colored jumper, replete with a mega-size turtleneck and lots of cozy fuzz (above, center). Max Mara showed a slouchy hooded overcoat in rosebud (above, left), and Giorgio Armani channeled a candy striper with a neat, structured blazer in magenta and golden stripes.
Moving beyond outerwear, Oscar de la Renta paired a cropped jacket in a cotton-candy shade with a matching top and electric-roseate skirt (above, right), and at Akris, Albert Kriemler invoked the arresting palette of Luis Barragán’s Cuadra San Cristobal estate on the outskirts of Mexico City—the result was a collection boasting shades of the manor’s pink stucco and serene fuchsia sunsets.