86 posts tagged "Riccardo Tisci"
Although you’ve definitely seen her influence, you may not have heard of Katy England. She isn’t one for the street-style paps or the blogosphere—probably because she’s too busy styling the collections of such talents as Riccardo Tisci, Tom Ford, and Marios Schwab to stop and strike a pose. During her twenty-year-and-counting career, England has built close relationships with Dazed & Confused and AnOther magazines (she previously held the role of fashion director at the latter), and served as the creative director of Alexander McQueen’s studio from the mid-nineties to the mid-naughties. If you’re still not impressed, we should tell you that she’s styled covers and spreads with photographers such as Rankin, Nick Knight, and Willy Vanderperre, and currently works with one Kate Moss on her much-talked-about Topshop range.
England has just released Made in England, a short film, created in collaboration with Vauxhall, that focuses on the many facets of contemporary British youth culture. Here, the stylist talks to Style.com about her directorial debut, McQueen, and why fashion is for the young.
Your film is all about British youth culture, which has historically played a huge role in British fashion. Do you think that youth culture now is equally as influential as it was during the punk or New Romantic/club kid eras?
I don’t feel there’s the same energy. It’s just so different, but I’m not young anymore. Teenagers today think they’re doing the most exciting things, just like we did at our age. It’s all relative. But I think designers—all of us—get inspired by young people and what they’re doing. I certainly do. Real fashion, high fashion, is from the kids and for the kids. We can all look stylish, and we can all dress really well and be on trend, but real fashion, as I would call it, is for the young. I work with Riccardo Tisci on his menswear collections; he is so inspired by what young kids are doing worldwide. And I’m sure Marc Jacobs does as well. I think there’s a certain bunch of them that are really young at heart.
What do you think of the increasing focus being placed on London’s young talents?
I used to work for Alexander McQueen, and when he took his position at Givenchy many, many years ago, it was the beginning of designers being approached by big houses. We were just kids—new kids on the block at the house of Givenchy—and we didn’t know what to do, and we didn’t get much support. I think now it’s become much more familiar—it happens all the time. And it’s great, but [the young designers] all need to have support around them, whether it’s great stylists, great people helping them research, great technicians…. I think these jobs are huge, and they’re a lot of pressure for the kids. If they’re supported, they’ll be fine, because they have a huge amount of energy, but it’s so tough. I did it with Alexander McQueen, unsupported. And it was harsh—really harsh.
Do you think it’s a positive thing that big houses are tapping young talents, and that these important companies are investing in new designers?
Sometimes I think it’s too much too soon, and I think there’s a huge value in learning in a smaller way. I work with Marios Schwab, who has a very small company in London. He’s been doing it a long time, and he’s such a talent. Bit by bit, he keeps going, and I hope that it will happen for him in the end. And when it does, my god will he be set up and ready for it, because he’s learned his craft. You have to learn your craft. You can’t just catapult. You’re going to be better for it if you learn the hard way.
Would you prefer to have youth or wisdom?
I’d love the energy of youth. I love being around people with that energy. I really feed off of that. But it’s tough for kids now. When I started in the fashion industry, it was so openly creative and you were not restricted in any way. Kids don’t have that opportunity so much anymore, because fashion is much more of a business now. Even with photo shoots, the clients are so much more powerful, because of digital photography—they can watch the shoot taking place. That was never the case before, and they had to put trust in a team of creatives to book the right people and get on with it. It was literally so free, and you would hope that you captured it, and you’d be so excited to see the film in the end. The creative process is very spontaneous, and it needs to be spontaneous. I think that we’ve lost a lot of that spontaneity. Continue Reading “Katy England Would Rather Just Get on With It” »
What does Jessica Stam have in common with Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada, Riccardo Tisci, and Dries Van Noten? The model can now claim an LPD New York T-shirt boldly emblazoned with her last name and birth year (’86) in black. Last night, Stam and LPD founder Benjamin Fainlight hosted friends including Jennifer Fisher and Athena Calderone at The Jane hotel to celebrate the launch of the new “Team Stam” collaboration jersey that will benefit the catwalker’s charity of choice, Many Hopes, which invests in sustainable community development in Kenya. One hundred percent of the proceeds from each shirt will go to the foundation. “My friend connected me with Stam and thought there was potential to use LPD and her shared platform to give back to a really great cause,” Fainlight told Style.com.
Over the past year, LPD New York’s novelty tees have developed a cult following with the street-style set, and Fainlight recently expanded beyond designers’ names with the Artist Series, which includes Hirst, Pollock, and Warhol styles. Beginning with Team Stam, we think Fainlight is onto something with models—who wouldn’t want to advertise their allegiance to Team Campbell, Team Moss, or Team Smalls? The designer hinted, “Well, I can’t give away too much, but I might just have that same concept coming out with a prevalent online retailer [chances are it's Net-a-Porter] that has been amazing about supporting the brand and giving us a global stage.” Building off of this idea, Stam suggested, “It would be neat if other philanthropic models like Liya Kebede, Christy Turlington Burns for Every Mother Counts, and Karlie Kloss for FEED got involved in another round of shirts.”
A potential model series isn’t the only project in the pipeline for LPD. On Friday evening, the label will stage its first NYFW concept presentation in conjunction with Conflict of Interest (known for its witty fashion T-shirts splashed with puns like “Ballinciaga” or “Ill Slander”). At the Spring ’14 show, Fainlight will debut a full cut-and-sewn collection including tailored outerwear, knitwear, and trousers that reportedly focuses on unorthodox finishings and treatments. “I really wanted to play with the conventions of streetwear and incorporate high-fashion concepts,” Fainlight said. “I think this new direction will show people that we’re a lot more than a T-shirt brand.”
Photo: Courtesy of LPD NYC