40 posts tagged "Richard Nicoll"
Fashion Rules—a new exhibition at London’s Kensington Palace showcasing twenty-one gowns once worn by Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Margaret, and Princess Diana—provides a peek at the royals’ wardrobes. “These three women were perhaps the most high-profile dressers of their time,” offered the show’s curator, Cassie Davies-Strodder. “Whatever they wore was photographed by international press and seen worldwide. The influence they had on fashion was bar none, and from a historical perspective, we felt it was critical to highlight that.” Now open to the public, the show comes before the much-anticipated September release of Oliver Hirschbiegel’s Diana biopic, in which Naomi Watts stars as the People’s Princess.
Sponsored by Estée Lauder, the exhibition’s opening party was held on Thursday evening at the Palace (once home to Queen Victoria, Princess Diana, and now the Duchess of Cambridge and Wills). And while the historic home’s new renovations—including a majestic stone hall with a thoroughly modern blue light sculpture by Loop.pH, quirky wallpaper boasting illustrations of Diana by artist Julie Verhoeven, and brick walls adorned with Mario Testino-lensed portraits of Princess Di—nearly overshadowed the dresses, several stood out. Key pieces include a gold caftan and turban worn by the party-loving Princess Margaret for a fete in Mustique (above), five gowns worn by the Queen in the fifties (below), and several Bruce Oldfield looks for Princess Diana. Oldfield himself was in attendance, joined by Poppy Delevingne, Tali Lennox, Minnie Driver, and Mr. Selfridge‘s Jeremy Piven. Designers Manolo Blahnik, Erdem Moralioglu, Richard Nicoll, Henry Holland, and Marios Schwab also stopped by to survey the scene. Continue Reading “Fit for a Queen” »
Nudes on clothes. It’s a novel concept, and one that’s emerging as a trend on the London runways. Richard Nicoll has long collaborated with Linder Sterling—a British artist informed by Manchester’s seventies punk scene—and for Spring, the latter whipped up a montage of reptile and avian patterns atop vintage gay pornography. “I found the source material in a bookshop in Barcelona, and Linder treated it with snakes and birds of prey,” Nicoll told Style.com. “She almost always uses the body as a canvas for her collages. Look three—the bomber jacket—is my favorite.”
In both his men’s Spring and women’s Resort ’14 collections, Christopher Kane webbed 3-D grids to create naked female torsos and male skulls. The images lent a lo-fi, diagrammatic pop to simple T-shirts and sweatshirts.
And finally, Sibling—the riotous knitwear label founded by East End cool kids Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery—anchored its collection around a pinup-girl theme. At times, that girl found herself undressed and in various states of undulation across a number of allover prints. “We found the inspiration through World War II plane imagery, as well as vintage T-shirts,” McCreery told Style.com. “We were also after that West Side Story feel of young guys and girlie images. It’s almost quite innocent.”
Androgynous, seasonless, and timeless—these were the buzzwords in Richard Nicoll‘s mind when he was designing his capsule collection for UK retailer Matchesfashion.com. Available from May 22, the thirteen-piece line (which starts at $130) offers crisp, clean his and hers wares, like chino skirts and trousers in dusty blue and wine, color-blocked jersey tees, knobby angora knits, and slick minimal bomber jackets in navy, for women, and burgundy, for men. “I wanted to play on unisex signatures to create an efficient capsule wardrobe of versatile classics,” Nicoll told Style.com, noting that he focused on pieces that could be layered and worn in different combinations year-round. “The range is what I have been describing as the ‘Special Normal’—easy to wear…wardrobe [essentials],” he added. As is often the case with Nicoll’s designs, small, subtle details are key. For instance, a slim leather collar elevates a blue oxford shirt from staple to “special.” The collection debuts in a Nicoll-styled shoot (above, and below) exclusively on Style.com.
Considering the winner receives a cool 250,000 euros and a two-season mentorship from Italian fashion tycoon Renzo Rosso, the ANDAM Fashion Award is one of the most coveted in the biz. And today, the group announced the seven finalists being considered for the 2013 prize. This year, AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi, the ever-quirky Olympia Le-Tan (left), Yang Li, Pedro Lourenço, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Masha Ma, and conceptual couturier Iris van Herpen will be competing for the honor. The winner, whose spoils will also include his or her Spring ’14 collection being sold in Canadian department store Hudson’s Bay Company, 10,000 euros worth of Swarovski Crystals to use on his or her Spring ’14 collection, and support from Fashion GPS over the next two years, will be chosen by a panel of industry insiders—including Colette’s Sarah Andelman, Humberto Leon, Paris Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt, and Style.com‘s executive editor Nicole Phelps—in Paris on July 4. Previous winners include Anthony Vaccarello, Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, and Gareth Pugh.
It’s been a big week for the London Collections: Men, with Rag & Bone and Pringle of Scotland announcing that they would join the likes of Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, and Burberry in presenting during the city’s third menswear showcase this June. “I think London is pretty much the home of menswear. Look at Savile Row and the great heritage we have. We invented the suit!” said Dylan Jones—the editor in chief of British GQ and the chair of London’s men’s collections—at an event at the British Residence in New York last night. The occasion, which drew the likes of BFC chief executive Caroline Rush, Dominic Jones, Nasir Mazhar, Sibling’s Cozette McCreery, Lou Dalton, and more, marked the announcement of London’s Spring 2014 menswear schedule. The lineup includes the above-mentioned international brands, as well as talents like Christopher Kane, Richard Nicoll, and James Long. Long, fresh out of the London Showrooms, which visited New York this week, offered, “When I started menswear in London, we had to struggle to have a voice. It was very behind womenswear. Now, all these supportive people have made [London menswear] happen, and it’s so funny being in New York and having menswear be the focus.” Caroline Rush concurred. “The womenswear designers have great recognition, but to put that spotlight on these incredible menswear brands is really important,” she said.
One might wonder why the British Fashion Council chose to reveal the London menswear roster in Manhattan rather than on its home turf. “We’re here tonight…because so many New York designers have supported us since we launched 18 months ago,” said Jones in his speech, noting that Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and more had all lent a hand. He added that Tommy Hilfiger, David Furnish, Tracey Emin, and Details magazine will all be throwing “amazing” parties during the upcoming shows, which will run from June 16 to 18. “When [everyone] goes over to Milan, they’re going to have one hell of a hangover,” he laughed. The complete Spring 2014 London Collections: Men schedule is available at www.londoncollections.co.uk.