12 posts tagged "Robert Clergerie"
Last Saturday, Robert Clergerie gave its men’s shoe line a place of its own at 8 Rue de Grenelle in Paris’ 7th arrondissement. On Sunday, creative director Roland Mouret followed up the store opening with the presentation of Clergerie’s Spring men’s collection. “It’s about a certain heritage, but it’s also for a man who’s as much at home in Biarritz as he is in Paris,” the designer explained, speaking to his choice of saturated color. Taking archival drawings from J. Fenestrier (the men’s shoe factory Clergerie bought in his heyday) as a point of departure, Mouret sampled styles from the twenties and thirties, then injected a little Bryan Ferry into the mix. Some models, such as the black, white, and blue Simon Richelieu, really pop. Others have a more heritage air about them, such as the black or white “modern classic” derbies, which retain classic lines but are done in a leather treated with a matte, rubberlike finish (these, too, come in Prussian blue and coral red). Sneakers and slip-ons, such as the Gatsby, also bear the season’s perforation and toe-cap details.
Mouret gamely tackled that trickiest of accessories this season—the men’s sandal—by translating a whiff of nostalgia for children’s jellies into a leather model with a striped cork sole for grown-ups. And while this is officially a men’s collection, androgyny is part of the Clergerie backstory, hence the inclusion of a “communal” (don’t call it unisex!) range of ten styles adapted to men’s and women’s foot proportions. Among these: the Glen lace-up boot recently spotted on the Sibling men’s/Resort runway in London, or a mid-eighties-era women’s derby now recast, as Mouret put it, “for the 21st-century man.”
Fashion collaborations are a dime a dozen these days, but every once in a while, we come across one that just makes sense. The latest case in point is A.L.C. x Robert Clergerie. As a longtime fan of the renowned footwear brand (creatively helmed by current artistic director Roland Mouret), designer Andrea Lieberman jumped at the opportunity to join forces with Clergerie on a limited-edition style that complements her Spring ’14 collection. What does Lieberman look for in a great shoe? “The same thing I look for in my wardrobe: incredible versatility, comfort—knowing everything I have to do in a day—and a bit of unconventional edge,” she told Style.com. “The process was effortless. It was important for us to maintain the integrity of A.L.C.’s DNA and also Clergerie’s.” Gilles Assor, vice president of Robert Clergerie U.S., added, “We felt a genuine synergy from our first meetings.”
The result of the partnership is a pair of architectural wedge sandals, which debut exclusively here. The kicks are an updated version of Clergerie’s signature Danvin style, reimagined with a gray suede body and a platform, featuring textured white and black patent leather. Arriving in select Intermix stores across the country this weekend, the new shoes have us excited for the warmer months ahead. Are there more Clergerie collabs in A.L.C.’s future? “I feel like we’ve forged a great friendship,” said Lieberman. “That being said, I am a slave to the shoe department, and however it manifests itself in the future is all good by me.” After all, A.L.C. recently launched a handbag line, so a footwear line isn’t out of the question.
The A.L.C. x Robert Clergerie limited-edition sandals ($595) will be sold exclusively at four Intermix retailers: Robertson Boulevard, L.A.; Bal Harbour, Florida; Soho, NYC; and Madison Avenue, NYC.
Roland Mouret has been busy dreaming up a new look for the Robert Clergerie man, one he defines as slightly offbeat, a tad psychedelic, but eminently wearable. “The way I see it, you can either do ‘heritage’ or you can create your own identity,” said Mouret upon arriving at the relaunch party he hosted at Maxim’s in Paris last night. “For me, the point of heritage is to break it down and do something new.” Robert Clergerie himself, hale and hearty at 79, joined in the process by sending Mouret a selection of his favorite styles.
There are more than 1,000 pairs of shoes in Clergerie’s nearly 120-year-old archives. (The company predates the man, who purchased and renamed the house in 1978.) Two pairs in particular—one from 1918 and another from 1926—came to inform the Spring ’14 line of derbies, oxfords, boots, and Chelsea boots that are part twenties and, true to Mouret’s style, part eighties.
“Clergerie always had a rock-and-roll spirit,” noted the house’s president, Eva Taub. “Robert’s first shoes for women were actually quite masculine. This spring we’re kind of pushing that signature androgyny in a new direction.” Added Mouret, “The 21st century is not about playing things safe. It’s about going your own way.”
Just last year, Robert Clergerie handed over the reins of his namesake footwear brand to Fung Brands Ltd. and announced Roland Mouret as the new creative director. They’ve wasted no time expanding—fans of the French label, a group that includes celebrities ranging from Blake Lively to Lauren Hutton, will be pleased to know there’s a newly opened outpost located at 8 Rue de Grenelle, which bowed during Paris fashion week. (A Robert Clergerie pop-up shop also opened recently at Selfridges in London.) Inside the Paris space, designed by artist Thierry Dreyfus, Mouret’s debut collection is under the spotlights. “I am thrilled to present my first collection for Robert Clergerie in one of Thierry’s installations,” he says. “He is incredibly well-known in the fashion scene for his lighting and I have been a huge fan of his work since the beginning of his art installations.”
Well, the fashion deck keeps reshuffling itself. This week, as we continued waiting for word on who will be taking the reins at Dior, two surprise—and surprising—announcements came from fashion’s headquarters over in Paris. First, it was revealed that Opening Ceremony founders and local kids-made-good Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are setting up shop at Kenzo (fueling speculation that the outgoing Kenzo designer Antonio Marras might be, yes, taking over Dior). Second, news broke that, as Robert Clergerie hands over his namesake footwear brand to Fung Brands Ltd., Roland Mouret would be coming on board as creative director. (Ending speculation that Mouret would be, well, taking over Dior.) Never a dull moment! Here, Robert Clergerie and Roland Mouret talk to Style.com about Mouret’s future in shoes. Continue Reading “Roland Mouret And Robert Clergerie On The Future Of Shoes” »