10 posts tagged "Robert Clergerie"
Roland Mouret has been busy dreaming up a new look for the Robert Clergerie man, one he defines as slightly offbeat, a tad psychedelic, but eminently wearable. “The way I see it, you can either do ‘heritage’ or you can create your own identity,” said Mouret upon arriving at the relaunch party he hosted at Maxim’s in Paris last night. “For me, the point of heritage is to break it down and do something new.” Robert Clergerie himself, hale and hearty at 79, joined in the process by sending Mouret a selection of his favorite styles.
There are more than 1,000 pairs of shoes in Clergerie’s nearly 120-year-old archives. (The company predates the man, who purchased and renamed the house in 1978.) Two pairs in particular—one from 1918 and another from 1926—came to inform the Spring ’14 line of derbies, oxfords, boots, and Chelsea boots that are part twenties and, true to Mouret’s style, part eighties.
“Clergerie always had a rock-and-roll spirit,” noted the house’s president, Eva Taub. “Robert’s first shoes for women were actually quite masculine. This spring we’re kind of pushing that signature androgyny in a new direction.” Added Mouret, “The 21st century is not about playing things safe. It’s about going your own way.”
Just last year, Robert Clergerie handed over the reins of his namesake footwear brand to Fung Brands Ltd. and announced Roland Mouret as the new creative director. They’ve wasted no time expanding—fans of the French label, a group that includes celebrities ranging from Blake Lively to Lauren Hutton, will be pleased to know there’s a newly opened outpost located at 8 Rue de Grenelle, which bowed during Paris fashion week. (A Robert Clergerie pop-up shop also opened recently at Selfridges in London.) Inside the Paris space, designed by artist Thierry Dreyfus, Mouret’s debut collection is under the spotlights. “I am thrilled to present my first collection for Robert Clergerie in one of Thierry’s installations,” he says. “He is incredibly well-known in the fashion scene for his lighting and I have been a huge fan of his work since the beginning of his art installations.”
Well, the fashion deck keeps reshuffling itself. This week, as we continued waiting for word on who will be taking the reins at Dior, two surprise—and surprising—announcements came from fashion’s headquarters over in Paris. First, it was revealed that Opening Ceremony founders and local kids-made-good Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are setting up shop at Kenzo (fueling speculation that the outgoing Kenzo designer Antonio Marras might be, yes, taking over Dior). Second, news broke that, as Robert Clergerie hands over his namesake footwear brand to Fung Brands Ltd., Roland Mouret would be coming on board as creative director. (Ending speculation that Mouret would be, well, taking over Dior.) Never a dull moment! Here, Robert Clergerie and Roland Mouret talk to Style.com about Mouret’s future in shoes. Continue Reading “Roland Mouret And Robert Clergerie On The Future Of Shoes” »
Should any of you ladies out there find yourself lacing up a pair of menswear-style oxfords today, spare a thought for Robert Clergerie. The venerable French footwear brand, which turns 30 this year, was the first to create a classic men’s-style oxford for women (on a man’s last, no less), and the ones Clergerie turns out today are, arguably, still the best. You can pay homage to Mr. Clergerie himself (pictured, bottom right), in fact, if your oxford-o-philia is intense enough: The shoemaker has made a rare trip to New York City and is celebrating his brand’s birthday this afternoon with a fête at Bergdorf Goodman. A trip to the BG shoe department will confirm that Clergerie’s footwear mastery is not confined to the lace-up alone. Some highlights from the Fall ’10 collection include a curvilinear wedge with crisscross straps and a pair of hiking boots with a clear lug sole. (Not to mention the ace Robert Clergerie par Opening Ceremony range, available at O.C.) Clergerie still makes all his shoes by hand at his factory in Romans, France, and he’s still a stickler for comfort—as fans including Lauren Hutton and Blake Lively would undoubtedly attest. Here, as a birthday tribute, a few images from the Clergerie archives.
Think Mediterranean. Opening Ceremony is: The Spring ’11 collection Humberto Leon and Carol Lim showed this morning conjured a whistle-stop trip through the French Riviera, complete with mariner stripes and blooming rosettes, followed by a seafaring pilgrimage to Morocco. The Moroccan pieces included intricate embroidered knits—a development from last spring’s India-inspired collection, O.C.’s first foray into embroideries. “I love the embroideries; they’re really different for us,” Lim noted. “And I love the sheers. That was a big theme, too.” Notable among the season’s transparencies were clear plastic rain jackets studded with life-size flowers, also in clear plastic. An unremarked-upon theme seemed to be the mock turtleneck, which showed up in signature Opening Ceremony full-skirted minidresses and printed crop tops. Elsewhere, Leon and Lim built on a few of their ongoing collaborations, including those with Robert Clergerie (look for the flat patent-leather platform sandals in mustard yellow and red) and Pendleton. Lim pointed out several diaphanous pieces in snakeskin-printed silk, remarking that she and Leon are easing Pendleton into territories other than the boiled wool items for which it’s known. “Slowly but surely,” she said. And another iconic American brand is about to get the slow-but-sure Opening Ceremony update now, too: This morning, O.C. revealed the first fruits of its collaboration with Hickey Freeman, suitmaker to (among others) President Barack Obama. The suits will be in stores in November.