10 posts tagged "Robert Clergerie"
“Rich” is the word Carol Lim and Humberto Leon kept coming back to as they described the Fall ’10 Opening Ceremony collections this morning. They were rich in color and rich with embellishment, that’s for sure. Standout pieces included maxi and baby-doll dresses in an eye-blazing digital print, skirts and tops covered in Technicolor sequins, and a moto jacket covered with matte metallic studs, which looked as though it would have done Michael Jackson proud. Fur—a new addition to the line—felt rich, too, but the debut material given the most play for Fall, and tricked out in the largest variety of ways, was velvet. Velvet turned up on laced boots (both from the OC label, pictured, and from the expanded Opening Ceremony par Robert Clergerie line ), and it got quilted for a group of soignée separates fit for hipster Marie Antoinettes. (The association may not be coincidental: In September, Opening Ceremony launches its “France” year.) But anyone laying bets on the OC must-haves for the coming season would be well advised to consider the printed velvet items previewed today, notably, the lace-up ankle boots, Peter Pan-collared minidress, and asymmetrical skirt that all came in either a blue or pink-toned abstract velvet print. This isn’t the first velvet we’ve seen from designers this season, and it won’t be the last. Is it the wave of the future? Many of the editors snapping shots today certainly seemed convinced.
It’s been a good run. Chiropractors and podiatrists the world over have no doubt scooped up a fair number of second homes thanks to the craze for skyscraper platforms and wedges, but the glory days may be coming to an end. Flats have shown up on several runways this season, and in the front row, fashion-forward types have been trending toward easy-on-the-arches footwear such as desert boots and Dr. Martens. Now Robert Clergerie is giving the look his own spin: He’s tricked out desert, hiking, and combat boot styles with a clear lug sole for Fall ’10, revealing a metallic inner sole. That’s a neat little optical trick, but unrepentant heel-wearers can have fun with optics, too: Clergerie also embedded tiny mirrors in the backs of his heels.
Great minds, as they say, think alike. So it pleased me greatly to find out that Vena Cava designers Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock, two girls for whom I have a ton of respect, are going to be using the Clergerie shoes I’ve been obsessing on since March at their show tomorrow. “I have no idea why Clergerie is so under-the-radar,” comments Buhai. “Lisa and I went to the store today, and they’re just our favorite shoes out there. Refined, comfortable, a little eccentric, but never too flashy, you know?” Alongside the Douz platform I wrote about, the Vena Cava Spring ’10 show will feature the Dorine bootie that may have superseded it in my affections, and pairs of wood-soled Mary Janes Buhai says reminded her and Mayock of the shoes they wore to high school in the nineties. Also featured at the show: Robert Clergerie himself, who happens to be in New York City for a rare visit, and who will be checking out the Vena Cava scene, naturellement. According to Buhai, he’ll get to see a modern, outer-borough version of bon chic, bon genre. “This collection is really about what we want to wear and what our friends want to wear,” says Buhai. “Casual, Brooklyn-girl style.”
What: Court Shoe Vamp + Platform Oomph = Le Chic Parisienne
Why: All that French fashion on the runway has got me in the mood for la mode; Robert Clergerie’s Douz platform fits the bill to a T. One of several platform styles in Clergerie’s pre-fall collection, which was inspired by Edith Piaf, the Douz in particular summons the subdued glamour I associate with the bon chic, bon genre. Also, is it just me, or is there something refreshingly simple about its court shoe-style vamp? I’m not at all ready to give up my platforms—and the Douz’s is sinuously substantial—but it’s nice to see a clean silhouette with no bells and whistles. (Or buckles, zippers, fake fur, etc.…)
Where: $750, at Robert Clergerie stores mid-summer.
For several months now, I’ve been on the hunt for a pair of flat black oxfords. Inasmuch as the oxford is one of this season’s key shoes, I’d assumed the hunt would be akin to shooting caged quail—in other words, not much of a hunt at all. Alas, the experience has been more like Goldilocks Goes Shopping. Every oxford I’ve tried on has been too stocky, or too tailored, or too jazz slipper-esque, or too anodyne, or too overdone, or too something. Then a friend called out the patent leather, ribbon-laced oxfords at Robert Clergerie.