19 posts tagged "Rochas"
Alessandro Dell’Acqua isn’t one to wax nostalgic. “For me, designing is all about a new story and a modern attitude,” the designer said before a cocktail party in honor of his ready-to-wear label, No. 21, at the New York residence of Valentina Castellani on Friday night. The soiree celebrated a new push for the brand, which, founded in 2010, gained financial backing from Gilmar in 2012. And the evolution of his label is evidence that Dell’Acqua’s forward-looking philosophy applies not only to his clothes, but to his life, too. Fall ’14 will bring plenty of new adventures for Dell’Acqua, now 50. He’s launching menswear under the No.21 moniker, as well as presenting his first collection for heritage French house Rochas, where he was appointed creative director in October after Marco Zanini announced that he was leaving to head up Schiaparelli. “I’m not a young designer, so when they called, I said, Are you sure?” Dell’Acqua laughed, noting that other storied houses (like Balenciaga and Loewe) have opted for younger creative directors (like Alexander Wang and Jonathan Anderson, respectively). Sometimes, however, it helps to have a talent who knows the ropes.
Indeed, Dell’Acqua is no up-and-comer. In 1996, before stints at Malo and Les Copains, the designer launched his successful, hyper-feminine namesake line, known for its whimsical yet seductive allure and lingerie accents. Two years later, he started an eponymous menswear range. But his story is all too familiar—Dell’Acqua lost the rights to his name after a dispute with his parent company, Cherry Grove (who also owned Malo), in 2009. He made a comeback a year later with No. 21—a ready-to-wear label named for his birthday (December 21) and his lucky number. “It’s about real women,” he told Style.com during that first show in 2010. Now, three years later, the brand, which is carried in stores like Selfridges and Matches, independent boutiques, and at such e-tailers as Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi, delivers just that—smart staples (think: embellished separates, slick blazers, and crisp overcoats) that cater to real-world women with a penchant for luxury. “No. 21 was born out of a horrible moment for me,” recalled Dell’Acqua. “I wanted to do a little line that was completely different, but still had my DNA.”
As was widely rumored, Marco Zanini, formerly of Rochas, was named creative director of the revived Maison Schiaparelli today. “My mission is to make the name Schiaparelli resound in both the present and the future,” Zanini said in a statement. He will design both ready to wear and couture for the house (following Christian Lacroix’s capsule collection of couture last season); his first rendezvous with the house, in Schiaparelli parlance, will be for Spring ’14 couture in January.
It seems as though the rumors, which began to swirl last week, are true. Rochas announced today that Alessandro Dell’Acqua—who stepped down from Les Copains last week, and also heads up his own range, No. 21—has been appointed as the new creative director at the French house. Dell’Acqua replaces Marco Zanini, who breathed new life into the brand after Olivier Theyskens’ departure in 2008. Word on the street is that Zanini is heading to the recently revived house of Schiaparelli—and perhaps, considering the success he’s had at Rochas, he is just the man for the job. That being said, he’ll have some pretty big shoes to fill. Schiaparelli has yet to comment.
Who doesn’t love a little fuzzy Muppet madness? During the Spring shows in Milan (which feel like ages ago, but were, in fact, last week), Fendi picked up where it left off for Fall and continued having lots of fun with fur. While last season it appeared as multicolored Mohawks atop models’ heads, this time around, Lagerfeld stuck bejeweled clips with wisps of violet, cobalt, lavender, or black fluff on models’ ears. It kind of looked like what might grow out of the ear canal of everyone’s favorite out-of-control, drumming puppet, Animal—if he were aging, and impossibly glam.
Meanwhile, today at Rochas, Marco Zanini sent crystal-embellished mules covered in mops of ostrich feathers down the runway—the yellow iterations brought Big Bird to mind. Moments later, at Gareth Pugh, a model stomped the catwalk in a flurry of purple ostrich plumes that enveloped her head and neck. Call us crazy, but we think this would look fantastic on Sam the Eagle (or even Mrs. Sam the Eagle?) should he want a sartorial update.
Perhaps given Riccardo Tisci’s recent varsity-letterman font slogans—think “PERVERT” at his men’s Pre-Fall 2013 collection, or “FAVELAS,” as spotted on a lace top worn by Marina Abramovic at last week’s CFDA Awards—designers circuit-wide are turning toward text in their Resort ’14 lineups. Yet where Tisci’s words of choice are consciously incendiary (“FAVELAS”—dense urban slums most commonly associated with Rio de Janeiro—will become an increasingly hot topic as Brazil’s World Cup and Olympic Games approach), others have gunned for logomania.
For instance, Rochas‘ Marco Zanini knit the house’s moniker across a turquoise roll-neck sweater. At Gucci, Frida Giannini emblazoned “FRIDA’S” across a retro-tinged crop top (let’s face it—at this point, the designer’s name and aesthetic are virtually synonymous with the Italian house), and Preen‘s Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi printed an abstract take on their line’s name across gray athletic-grade jersey. “We were interested in slogans and rock band tour T-shirts,” Thornton said of the nineties-inspired collection. “The motif was a development from these, combined with a contemporary art attitude. We have always loved letters and text,” the designer added, “so why not incorporate them into clothing? There is nothing more graphically pleasing than letters.”