115 posts tagged "Rodarte"
It’s virtually impossible to flip through a glossy these days without coming across at least one picture of Karen Elson, whose career has been in overdrive lately with recent ads for Jason Wu, Sonia Rykiel, Paule Ka, Kurt Geiger, and a new campaign for Louis Vuitton, which was announced today. In the brand’s new “Spirit of Travel” series, Peter Lindbergh went on safari in South Africa with Elson and fellow English rose Edie Campbell, and captured them feeding giraffes and riding zebras, respectively. (Campbell is known for her equestrian skills.) Keeping up her red-hot momentum, Elson has made plenty of appearances during the Fall ’14 shows, too—both in the front row and on the runway. So far, she’s turned up on catwalks including Tom Ford, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, and Diane von Furstenberg, and rubbed elbows with the celebs and editors at Alexander Wang and Rodarte. We wouldn’t be surprised to see more of her during the Paris shows.
Fashion currently boasts several talented sister acts (The Row, Rodarte, and Dannijo, for example), and Toronto-based Chloé and Parris Gordon are the latest sibling design duo making waves. After going by Chloé comme Parris for several seasons, the Gordons decided to relaunch their jewelry and ready-to-wear label as Beaufille, which means “handsome girl” in English. “We found ourselves in business pretty quickly after our graduate collection from design school (Nova Scotia College of Art and Design, in Halifax) was immediately picked up. Over the past few years, we’ve grown and changed—we got an outside investor and are looking at our business more internationally—so we wanted to take our names out of the brand and operate under an alias,” they told Style.com. “We’ve always designed for the effortlessly chic tomboy, and Beaufille combines the contrasting masculine/feminine, hard/soft elements that define our aesthetic.” The twosome divides the creative work evenly, with Chloé concentrating on clothing and Parris overseeing jewelry and accessories, and their standout items often combine both disciplines. The Spring ’14 lineup, which was reportedly inspired by the Renaissance and mob wives (specifically, Michelle Pfeiffer’s character in Scarface), featured silky tanks, skinny trousers, and inky brocade looks decorated with delicate chains, metal clasps, and other hardware details that tie in with the new range of semiprecious bijoux. Artist-slash-model Langley Fox (who turned up on the Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton runways this season) posed for the accompanying look book, which debuts here on Style.com. The Gordons said they “have admired Langley for a long time, mostly for her art, and loved collaborating with someone who shares an artistic point of view.”
Beaufille’s Spring collection ($165 to $1,200) will be sold online and in select boutiques, including Kin, in Los Angeles, and Belle & Sue, in Israel.
Since 2010, Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy have thrice teamed with director Todd Cole to bring their collections to life. In doing so, they’ve proved a deft hand at storytelling—so deft, in fact, that their most recent film, This Must Be the Only Fantasy, which starred Elijah Wood, Sidney Williams, and Guinevere Van Seenus, was included in the Shorts Selection at this year’s American Film Institute Festival.
Last night at L.A.’s Hammer Museum, Vanity Fair West Coast editor Krista Smith led a discussion with the trio about their collaborations. “We were at the forefront of making these films in fashion,” Cole said. “And you can feel a narrative about where the clothes come from.”
Their first project was Aanteni—ancient Mayan for “a scream for help.” The short starred Guinevere Van Seenus as she ran through the industrial wasteland of downtown L.A. The Aptos, Calif.-born designers explained that a sense of place—particularly their home state—has always been a key component in their creative process. “I think that when we work, everything [goes] back to what we see and what we grew up seeing,” offered Laura. “Our process of working is about driving and seeing things and then having an idea two days later.”
While Southern California’s aeronautical engineering—a point of fascination for the designers—provided inspiration for Aanteni, an oversized brick house in Baldwin Hills influenced the Wild West element of their second film, The Curve of Forgotten Things, which featured a captivating Elle Fanning. Finally, This Must Be the Only Fantasy explored L.A.’s suburbia.
Although each film begins with a given collection, the team stressed that they’re more about the visual world that informs each season. “We wouldn’t even care if none of our clothes were in it,” said Laura. “The clothing is a brief, basically,” added Cole. “They’re such specific pieces that they call for really particular worlds. Then you pick the world, and it’s easy to tell the story.”
From the streets of New York to the Paris ateliers, fashion is in a California state of mind. For proof, look at all the references to West Coast skate, surf, rave, grunge, and lowrider subcultures on the Spring ’14 runways. Hedi Slimane, who was fetishizing Los Angeles and its underground scenes long before he landed at Saint Laurent, is at least partly responsible for this mass migration, but Kate and Laura Mulleavy deserve credit, too. After taking us “back home to Santa Cruz” last season, the Rodarte sisters’ L.A.-inspired lineup was full of chola-girl plaid shirts styled with snapbacks, satin bras, studded suspenders, and fringed skirts. Tommy Hilfiger, meanwhile, transformed Pier 94 into an epic beachscape with a boardwalk runway that complemented his sun-kissed, sporty clothes; Humberto Leon and Carol Lim channeled SoCal street racing at Opening Ceremony; and Jeremy Laing described his Spring collection as “Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave.”