113 posts tagged "Rodarte"
Fashion currently boasts several talented sister acts (The Row, Rodarte, and Dannijo, for example), and Toronto-based Chloé and Parris Gordon are the latest sibling design duo making waves. After going by Chloé comme Parris for several seasons, the Gordons decided to relaunch their jewelry and ready-to-wear label as Beaufille, which means “handsome girl” in English. “We found ourselves in business pretty quickly after our graduate collection from design school (Nova Scotia College of Art and Design, in Halifax) was immediately picked up. Over the past few years, we’ve grown and changed—we got an outside investor and are looking at our business more internationally—so we wanted to take our names out of the brand and operate under an alias,” they told Style.com. “We’ve always designed for the effortlessly chic tomboy, and Beaufille combines the contrasting masculine/feminine, hard/soft elements that define our aesthetic.” The twosome divides the creative work evenly, with Chloé concentrating on clothing and Parris overseeing jewelry and accessories, and their standout items often combine both disciplines. The Spring ’14 lineup, which was reportedly inspired by the Renaissance and mob wives (specifically, Michelle Pfeiffer’s character in Scarface), featured silky tanks, skinny trousers, and inky brocade looks decorated with delicate chains, metal clasps, and other hardware details that tie in with the new range of semiprecious bijoux. Artist-slash-model Langley Fox (who turned up on the Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton runways this season) posed for the accompanying look book, which debuts here on Style.com. The Gordons said they “have admired Langley for a long time, mostly for her art, and loved collaborating with someone who shares an artistic point of view.”
Beaufille’s Spring collection ($165 to $1,200) will be sold online and in select boutiques, including Kin, in Los Angeles, and Belle & Sue, in Israel.
Since 2010, Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy have thrice teamed with director Todd Cole to bring their collections to life. In doing so, they’ve proved a deft hand at storytelling—so deft, in fact, that their most recent film, This Must Be the Only Fantasy, which starred Elijah Wood, Sidney Williams, and Guinevere Van Seenus, was included in the Shorts Selection at this year’s American Film Institute Festival.
Last night at L.A.’s Hammer Museum, Vanity Fair West Coast editor Krista Smith led a discussion with the trio about their collaborations. “We were at the forefront of making these films in fashion,” Cole said. “And you can feel a narrative about where the clothes come from.”
Their first project was Aanteni—ancient Mayan for “a scream for help.” The short starred Guinevere Van Seenus as she ran through the industrial wasteland of downtown L.A. The Aptos, Calif.-born designers explained that a sense of place—particularly their home state—has always been a key component in their creative process. “I think that when we work, everything [goes] back to what we see and what we grew up seeing,” offered Laura. “Our process of working is about driving and seeing things and then having an idea two days later.”
While Southern California’s aeronautical engineering—a point of fascination for the designers—provided inspiration for Aanteni, an oversized brick house in Baldwin Hills influenced the Wild West element of their second film, The Curve of Forgotten Things, which featured a captivating Elle Fanning. Finally, This Must Be the Only Fantasy explored L.A.’s suburbia.
Although each film begins with a given collection, the team stressed that they’re more about the visual world that informs each season. “We wouldn’t even care if none of our clothes were in it,” said Laura. “The clothing is a brief, basically,” added Cole. “They’re such specific pieces that they call for really particular worlds. Then you pick the world, and it’s easy to tell the story.”
From the streets of New York to the Paris ateliers, fashion is in a California state of mind. For proof, look at all the references to West Coast skate, surf, rave, grunge, and lowrider subcultures on the Spring ’14 runways. Hedi Slimane, who was fetishizing Los Angeles and its underground scenes long before he landed at Saint Laurent, is at least partly responsible for this mass migration, but Kate and Laura Mulleavy deserve credit, too. After taking us “back home to Santa Cruz” last season, the Rodarte sisters’ L.A.-inspired lineup was full of chola-girl plaid shirts styled with snapbacks, satin bras, studded suspenders, and fringed skirts. Tommy Hilfiger, meanwhile, transformed Pier 94 into an epic beachscape with a boardwalk runway that complemented his sun-kissed, sporty clothes; Humberto Leon and Carol Lim channeled SoCal street racing at Opening Ceremony; and Jeremy Laing described his Spring collection as “Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave.”
With each new season comes a whole crop of new models to get acquainted with, and what struck us about many of Spring ’14′s rising stars was their interesting names—Drake Burnette (below, left), Binx Walton, Malaika Firth (above, top left), Holly Rose Emery (below, right), and Zlata Mangafic in particular. Their cool monikers only added to their allure during the New York and London shows. Firth is perhaps the most promising fresh face to emerge these past two weeks. We knew the 19-year-old stunner from Kenya (by way of London) would be major when she landed the Prada Fall ’13 campaign (she’s the first black model to do so since Naomi Campbell in 1994, which gave rise to a slew of comparisons to the supe) and walked in the label’s menswear Resort presentation back in June. Firth started her season at Jason Wu, and continued to walk only top-tier shows during NYFW, including Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection, Marc Jacobs, and Proenza Schouler. She kept up the pace across the pond, turning up at Burberry, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, and Mary Katrantzou.
Other girls who got explosive starts from that Prada menswear runway over the summer include Anna Ewers (above, top right) and Emery. Ewers caught Alexander Wang’s eye (as well as the attention of casting director Anita Bitton) back in February, when she was included in the lineup for his debut Balenciaga collection. Next, the strong German beauty starred in the Resort lookbooks for both Alexander Wang and Balenciaga, so we were hardly surprised to see the designer’s new muse open his Spring ’14 show—the easy, cool hair and makeup were even reportedly inspired by Ewers’ natural look. She went on to do Altuzarra, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs. Meanwhile, Emery’s career took off during the Fall couture shows, and her Kewpie Doll pout won her spots on Spring catwalks including Jason Wu, Theyskens’ Theory, Marc Jacobs, Christopher Kane, and Giles. Another newcomer who has walked all the right runways so far is Kate Goodling (above, bottom left). The second girl out at Alexander Wang, she also appeared at Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodrgieuz, Altuzarra, and Donna Karan. Her all-American appeal will take her far. Ophelie Guillermand (above, bottom right), likewise, made an impact at both Alexander Wang and Calvin Klein. Continue Reading “New Model News From New York and London” »
Fringe, in every length, style, and color, has been adding a playful kick to the Spring ’14 collections. It surfaced early in NYC, namely at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Ralph Rucci. The former showed fringe on punctuated-block tops in Neapolitan hues, while the latter offered an evening gown tiered in fiber-optic strands that radiated with synthetic rainbow phosphorescence (“eyelashes,” Rucci called the textile).
At Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy paid homage to their beloved Los Angeles, attaching long tassels to trash-fab grommeted belts and heavy leather skirts. Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez whipped up a lattice-patterned overcoat in shredded fabric—scraps of which were dip-dyed crimson red, and Marc Jacobs enhanced his collection’s Victorian vibe via bunches of fluid thread (above, center). Meanwhile, Francisco Costa—who celebrated ten years at the helm of Calvin Klein—also implemented fringe on a number of sporty silhouettes (above, left), breathing a reinvigorated rawness into his famed streamlined aesthetic.
The trend has been spotted out of the gate in London, too. Sister by Sibling used drapery tassels on netted skirts (above, right), while Holly Fulton employed wispy stranding on topcoats at her seventies-influenced outing. Of the fringe effect, New York’s Fivestory owner Claire Distenfeld told Style.com, “Amazing elements from the past are back in full force, including fringe. As a romantic, I’m ready to embrace it.”