116 posts tagged "Rodarte"
From the streets of New York to the Paris ateliers, fashion is in a California state of mind. For proof, look at all the references to West Coast skate, surf, rave, grunge, and lowrider subcultures on the Spring ’14 runways. Hedi Slimane, who was fetishizing Los Angeles and its underground scenes long before he landed at Saint Laurent, is at least partly responsible for this mass migration, but Kate and Laura Mulleavy deserve credit, too. After taking us “back home to Santa Cruz” last season, the Rodarte sisters’ L.A.-inspired lineup was full of chola-girl plaid shirts styled with snapbacks, satin bras, studded suspenders, and fringed skirts. Tommy Hilfiger, meanwhile, transformed Pier 94 into an epic beachscape with a boardwalk runway that complemented his sun-kissed, sporty clothes; Humberto Leon and Carol Lim channeled SoCal street racing at Opening Ceremony; and Jeremy Laing described his Spring collection as “Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave.”
With each new season comes a whole crop of new models to get acquainted with, and what struck us about many of Spring ’14′s rising stars was their interesting names—Drake Burnette (below, left), Binx Walton, Malaika Firth (above, top left), Holly Rose Emery (below, right), and Zlata Mangafic in particular. Their cool monikers only added to their allure during the New York and London shows. Firth is perhaps the most promising fresh face to emerge these past two weeks. We knew the 19-year-old stunner from Kenya (by way of London) would be major when she landed the Prada Fall ’13 campaign (she’s the first black model to do so since Naomi Campbell in 1994, which gave rise to a slew of comparisons to the supe) and walked in the label’s menswear Resort presentation back in June. Firth started her season at Jason Wu, and continued to walk only top-tier shows during NYFW, including Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection, Marc Jacobs, and Proenza Schouler. She kept up the pace across the pond, turning up at Burberry, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, and Mary Katrantzou.
Other girls who got explosive starts from that Prada menswear runway over the summer include Anna Ewers (above, top right) and Emery. Ewers caught Alexander Wang’s eye (as well as the attention of casting director Anita Bitton) back in February, when she was included in the lineup for his debut Balenciaga collection. Next, the strong German beauty starred in the Resort lookbooks for both Alexander Wang and Balenciaga, so we were hardly surprised to see the designer’s new muse open his Spring ’14 show—the easy, cool hair and makeup were even reportedly inspired by Ewers’ natural look. She went on to do Altuzarra, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs. Meanwhile, Emery’s career took off during the Fall couture shows, and her Kewpie Doll pout won her spots on Spring catwalks including Jason Wu, Theyskens’ Theory, Marc Jacobs, Christopher Kane, and Giles. Another newcomer who has walked all the right runways so far is Kate Goodling (above, bottom left). The second girl out at Alexander Wang, she also appeared at Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodrgieuz, Altuzarra, and Donna Karan. Her all-American appeal will take her far. Ophelie Guillermand (above, bottom right), likewise, made an impact at both Alexander Wang and Calvin Klein. Continue Reading “New Model News From New York and London” »
Fringe, in every length, style, and color, has been adding a playful kick to the Spring ’14 collections. It surfaced early in NYC, namely at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Ralph Rucci. The former showed fringe on punctuated-block tops in Neapolitan hues, while the latter offered an evening gown tiered in fiber-optic strands that radiated with synthetic rainbow phosphorescence (“eyelashes,” Rucci called the textile).
At Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy paid homage to their beloved Los Angeles, attaching long tassels to trash-fab grommeted belts and heavy leather skirts. Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez whipped up a lattice-patterned overcoat in shredded fabric—scraps of which were dip-dyed crimson red, and Marc Jacobs enhanced his collection’s Victorian vibe via bunches of fluid thread (above, center). Meanwhile, Francisco Costa—who celebrated ten years at the helm of Calvin Klein—also implemented fringe on a number of sporty silhouettes (above, left), breathing a reinvigorated rawness into his famed streamlined aesthetic.
The trend has been spotted out of the gate in London, too. Sister by Sibling used drapery tassels on netted skirts (above, right), while Holly Fulton employed wispy stranding on topcoats at her seventies-influenced outing. Of the fringe effect, New York’s Fivestory owner Claire Distenfeld told Style.com, “Amazing elements from the past are back in full force, including fringe. As a romantic, I’m ready to embrace it.”
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Rodarte, designed by Kate and Laura Mulleavy
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Tuesday, September 10
WHAT: “Spring ’14 is inspired by asphalt.”— Kate and Laura Mulleavy. The designers sent us a Spring ’14 inspiration photo by Alec Soth, above.
Elijah Wood has been reunited with a cast of fairies, unicorns, and sword-fighting villains—but he hasn’t revived Frodo Baggins. Rather, the actor plays the regal, mysterious role of Trevor in Rodarte’s latest film, This Must Be the Only Fantasy. For their third collaboration with director Todd Cole, Kate and Laura Mulleavy—both of whom are longtime sci-fi fans—tapped Sidney Williams and Guinevere Van Seenus to star in an out-of-this-world epic while donning Rodarte’s Spring ’13 looks. “Our Spring collection was inspired by fantasy and role-playing games, and the film brings to life these ideas,” said the Mulleavy sisters, adding that they always envisioned their pal Wood as the male lead.
“I never think of these films as fashion films,” offered Cole of the project, which was shot in L.A. “I think of Kate and Laura’s clothes as more of a starting point, and then I can create a world for them to exist in.” The full twelve-minute flick will premiere this week on The Creators Project. Catch the trailer’s exclusive debut below, and keep your eye on Rodarte’s Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, et al. for more sneak peeks at the movie.