6 posts tagged "Rodolfo Paglialunga"
UPDATE: Multiple industry sources have now confirmed to Style.com that Nadège Vanhee will succeed Christophe Lemaire as the creative director of womenswear at Hermès. The house is believed to be sending out an official announcement tomorrow morning.
Let the rumors begin! According to WWD, word on the street is that behind-the-scenes star Nadège Vanhee, who cut her teeth at Delvaux and Maison Martin Margiela, worked under Phoebe Philo as the design director at Céline, and is now the design director at The Row, is Hermès’ top pick to succeed Christophe Lemaire as the head of womenswear. It would be nice to see someone like Vanhee, who has a wealth of experience and an eye for clean, sophisticated luxury, get a mega-gig like the one at Hermès—goodness knows she’s paid her dues. An announcement may be made as early as this week.
When I first heard this rumor, it reminded me of Jil Sander’s choice to hire Rodolfo Paglialunga—a designer who, save a stint as the creative director at Vionnet, earned his stripes working behind the scenes at Prada for 10 years. And then there’s the case of Julie de Libran’s appointment at Sonia Rykiel. Another under-the-radar gem, de Libran designed the pre-collections for Louis Vuitton, but was, of course, not as well known as the brand’s creative director and face, Marc Jacobs. Sometimes it makes sense to have a big name head up a big house. But it’s nice to see that the work of talented, though less famous, industry vets does not go unnoticed.
At long last, Jil Sander has a new creative director. Following Sander’s 2012 return to her label and her abrupt departure last October, the house has tapped Italian designer Rodolfo Paglialunga to take the reins. “I am deeply honored to have the opportunity to take on this role,” said Paglialunga, who worked for Prada for more than ten years before embarking on a two-year stint as the creative director of Vionnet. “I have boundless admiration for the brand, as I strongly believe in its pure vision and values. My aim is to carry forward the fusion between sophistication, luxury, and innovation and bring the house to the next level,” he added. Jil Sander Group’s CEO, Alessandro Cremonesi, offered, “We are very confident about this decision. We have identified the right talent that with coordinated assets in terms of personality and design skill will be able to raise our creative excellence to achieve new fashion marks.” No doubt, all eyes will be on Paglialunga when he debuts his first Jil Sander outing for the Spring ’15 season.
In June, the French label Vionnet made its debut presentation in New York for Resort 2012. At a Chelsea loft overlooking the Hudson River, Rodolfo Paglialunga showed off his evolving collection (his ninth for the label) of languidly draped dresses in bold, graphic prints. New for Cruise were charming embellished knits. Here, in this Matteo Minasi-made video debuting exclusively on Style.com, we get a behind-the-scenes glimpse of what went into the making of the presentation, from the casting of models like Caroline West by Andrew Weir, to the makeup artistry of Brigitte Reiss-Andersen.
In addition to his own collection, Giuseppe Zanotti, at one time or another, has been responsible for shoes bearing the Balmain, Proenza Schouler, and Thakoon labels. Still, ask any stiletto lover and she’ll tell you that she doesn’t have enough of him in her life. Zanotti has recently signed on at Vionnet to collaborate with designer Rodolfo Paglialunga on a line for the storied brand. Here’s why we’re excited: On the phone today, he told us that he’s focused on fit, fine materials, and, most importantly, proportion. There aren’t any “crazy fabrics” or platforms in the 20 or so models he’s designed for Resort. Instead, he’s put the emphasis on leather and (echoing Paglialunga’s evening-focused lineup) silk. Our favorite is this black and marigold sandal sling-back, but there are ballerina flats and the now de rigueur kitten heels in the mix, too. Look for them at Saks and other Vionnet retail outlets come late Fall.