27 posts tagged "Roksanda Ilincic"
Mayfair: the most expensive square on the British Monopoly board. Mount Street: fast replacing Bond Street as the place to shop for the highest of fashions in London. At Number 9 Mount Street, Roksanda Ilincic is stood outside her new, and first, store–looking very beautiful, tall and glamorous as usual, and this is a sloppy, shop-fitting day for her–she is pointing up the road. “There’s Nicholas, and this is where Christopher is going to be and here is me,” she says, counting down from one to the other, genuinely thrilled to be next door-but-one to her friends and fashion peers, Nicholas Kirkwood and Christopher Kane.
Christopher and Tammy Kane are opening their store here later this year, while Jonathan Anderson’s newly logoed Loewe stands across the road. Marking how far this peer group of designers has travelled, by making the journey from Dalston in the Far East to the most Up West location of the lot, the new fashion establishment is well and truly taking over this seemingly most chi-chi part of London. Yet, at the same time, it is also one of the most peculiarly British places in the capital; international, yet strangely traditional, there is a butcher’s shop directly across the road. “Sometimes they have four whole pigs in the window—that’s my favorite shop,” says Ilincic, genuinely impressed by the amount of pigs they can squeeze in that store front. “That and Moynat. You should see the time they take and the detail to make bags, I am obsessed,” she says somewhat more expectedly of the quietly chic, French luxury leather goods house. In her own shop window is a creation by Gary Card, the set designer, which was unveiled yesterday evening. It meets somewhat metaphorically between the two.
It is such weird contradictions that go to make up the character and career of Roksanda Ilincic; so seemingly ethereal and yet, I am told, at times swearing like a sailor when attending football matches, she is always refreshingly down to Earth and always herself. The designer has a superb eye for color and an architectural flair–she originally trained as an architect in her native Belgrade before completing her Fashion MA at London’s Central Saint Martins. Both meet in the interior of her store, designed in conjunction with the internationally renowned architect David Adjaye OBE–his largest commission is the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of African American History and Culture on the National Mall in Washington D.C. Needless to say, he is somewhat impressive.
“We designed elements together because I wanted it to feel like an extension of my clothing, not a regular shop,” says the designer. “I studied architecture myself, so whether it is the interior or the detail on a coat in the store, it still has that architectural experience.” Ilincic says this while shifting seamless felt covered doors in characteristic colors from past collections that make up rooms downstairs. “There’s deep purple, lime-yellow, dusty pink, and neutral beige.” The designer has never been afraid of a strong palette and has not shied away from one in the store – yet, as always, it all works.
In the Mount Street location, there will also be a made-to-measure service, specializing in event-wear and wedding dresses, hence all the privacy and secrecy of those seamless doors. This line will carry the designer’s full name. But with the launch of the store there is also an eye on the bigger global market and a slight rebranding for the rest of the ready-to-wear collections: they will now be labeled “Roksanda,” as will the store. “Well, nobody seemed to be able to pronounce Ilincic,” shrugs the designer, disarmingly honest as usual. “And it just looked better graphically.” So with the launch of the store and the single moniker, it appears that the journey from the Far East to the Far West will now be a rapidly expanding global one – coming to a chi-chi shopping street near you.
For the next five days, The Outnet is running a master sale in which some pieces are up to 85 percent off. What better excuse to indulge? I’m currently lusting over Balmain’s cashmere and cotton fuchsia top (remember, fuchsia is the color for Fall ’14); Victoria Beckham’s denim pants in a dark wash (at $57, how can I resist?); Christopher Kane’s modern LBD; Pierre Hardy’s two-tone sandals; and Roksanda Ilincic’s color-blocked dress. These items will definitely get my wardrobe ready for spring.
Balmain fuchsia top, $251; Victoria Beckham denim pants, $57; Christopher Kane wool crepe dress, $379; Pierre Hardy sandals, $168; and Roksanda Ilincic dress, $341. All available at TheOutnet.com.
London’s posh Mayfair neighborhood is about to get a lot less stuffy. Following the launch of surrealist jewelry designer Solange Azagury-Partridge’s Carlos Place boutique this week, and Christopher Kane’s recent announcement that he’ll open a flagship in the tony district before the end of 2014, Roksanda Ilincic—the British designer known for her colorful, feminine wares with a sculptural twist—revealed today that, early next year, she’ll bow her first store at 9 Mount Street. To fete the milestone, she’s teamed up with the ever-eccentric artist-cum-set designer Gary Card to create a neon-splashed installation in the raw space. On view for three weeks, the display features a capsule collection of eight brightly hued Roksanda Ilincic looks, which will be available on net-a-porter.com.
Forgive us for saying that it seems like designers get together pre-season to discuss ways to flummox journalists: “Let’s do floral, let’s do neoprene, let’s do trapeze, and, to really freak them out, let’s all do it together.”
Fashion conspiracy theory? Probably not, but there is just a hint of truth in it. “I don’t think we pull out these uniform ideas from the ether just like that,” Maria Grachvogel told us backstage at her Spring ’14 show. “We all have our inspirations and references, and sometimes, it all just collides, then we telegraph messages to each other without meaning to. I guess it’s a controlled coincidence.” One of those coincidences this season is the skirt-pants combo. Raf Simons played with the look in his Resort ’14 collection for Dior, and now, London designers have rolled with that ball.
The style opened Osman Yousefzada’s Spring ’14 show. His iteration offered a beautiful white lace overlay (above, right). Simone Rocha produced a pair in a very hip, plasticized crochet (above, center), and Roksanda Ilincic crafted hers in an elegant stiff pleated silk gazar. Meanwhile, Grachvogel presented a dress-trousers hybrid in flowy, diaphanous silk (above, left). Such designers as Naeem Khan have also been up to bat, but being Indian, it should be all but instinctive for him. Said Yousefzada backstage, “It’s the classic kurta silhouette that’s been going on for centuries in India—it’s as ubiquitous as the sari. I can’t figure out why it has taken so long to catch on here.” After this season, we’re guessing that will change.