24 posts tagged "Roksanda Ilincic"
London’s posh Mayfair neighborhood is about to get a lot less stuffy. Following the launch of surrealist jewelry designer Solange Azagury-Partridge’s Carlos Place boutique this week, and Christopher Kane’s recent announcement that he’ll open a flagship in the tony district before the end of 2014, Roksanda Ilincic—the British designer known for her colorful, feminine wares with a sculptural twist—revealed today that, early next year, she’ll bow her first store at 9 Mount Street. To fete the milestone, she’s teamed up with the ever-eccentric artist-cum-set designer Gary Card to create a neon-splashed installation in the raw space. On view for three weeks, the display features a capsule collection of eight brightly hued Roksanda Ilincic looks, which will be available on net-a-porter.com.
Forgive us for saying that it seems like designers get together pre-season to discuss ways to flummox journalists: “Let’s do floral, let’s do neoprene, let’s do trapeze, and, to really freak them out, let’s all do it together.”
Fashion conspiracy theory? Probably not, but there is just a hint of truth in it. “I don’t think we pull out these uniform ideas from the ether just like that,” Maria Grachvogel told us backstage at her Spring ’14 show. “We all have our inspirations and references, and sometimes, it all just collides, then we telegraph messages to each other without meaning to. I guess it’s a controlled coincidence.” One of those coincidences this season is the skirt-pants combo. Raf Simons played with the look in his Resort ’14 collection for Dior, and now, London designers have rolled with that ball.
The style opened Osman Yousefzada’s Spring ’14 show. His iteration offered a beautiful white lace overlay (above, right). Simone Rocha produced a pair in a very hip, plasticized crochet (above, center), and Roksanda Ilincic crafted hers in an elegant stiff pleated silk gazar. Meanwhile, Grachvogel presented a dress-trousers hybrid in flowy, diaphanous silk (above, left). Such designers as Naeem Khan have also been up to bat, but being Indian, it should be all but instinctive for him. Said Yousefzada backstage, “It’s the classic kurta silhouette that’s been going on for centuries in India—it’s as ubiquitous as the sari. I can’t figure out why it has taken so long to catch on here.” After this season, we’re guessing that will change.
Gary Card is a master at making other people’s visions a reality. He’s become the go-to set designer/prop maker/illustrator/artist for the likes of Lady Gaga, Nicola Formichetti, and Nick Knight, and has worked with such top-tier publications as AnOther Magazine, Dazed & Confused, i-D, and T magazine. (Perhaps you saw the flaming, ten-foot-tall, wicker T he built for the latter back in 2009?) But last night in London, Card took a little “me” time and opened his first solo show, Abandoned Amusement Park, at Dalston’s Eternal Youth gallery. “I am used to building things based on the tastes of other people, and it was quite nice to do something for me for a change,” offered the artist.
The exhibition features strange cartoonish figures created with wire and tape, then papier-mâchéd into ghostlike figures. They each have bulbous noses and a look of horror on their faces. “The idea of something like an old relic being rediscovered fascinated me,” explained Card. “This is meant to represent something that has been left to rot, melt, and die, and the tragedy of that is shown in their faces. Yes, it’s cartoonish, and there are definitely sinister undertones, but that is perhaps the way life should be seen.”
The opening was a significant milestone for Card, and he shows no signs of slowing down. Next on the docket are a project with Roksanda Ilincic; a film with Chris Sutton, for SHOWstudio; and a trip to New York to work with Spring Studios. “It is looking to be a very exciting fall,” he said.
If the past few years are any indication, Barbie has a thing for young London—designers, that is. Louise Gray, Roksanda Ilincic, and Gareth Pugh have all made a special little something for the blonde and her boyfriend, whether it be Dalston-appropriate duds or, in Ilincic’s case, a London dream house. Now, in celebration of Selfridges’ new fourth-floor toy shop, which opens this week, emerging Brit-based brands Sister by Sibling, Fred Butler, and Nasir Mazhar have each dressed five one-off dolls. Sibling’s Cozette McCreery, Sid Bryan, and Joe Bates designed a gaggle of knit looks (above, left), while Butler turned out a series of quirky, sculptural ensembles (above, center). Mazhar created some hard-edged streetwear styles—we especially enjoy the bucket hat and sweat suit getup he fashioned for Ken (above, right). All fifteen dolls will be on display—and for sale—in the toy shop’s Barbie department.