25 posts tagged "Roksanda Ilincic"
If the past few years are any indication, Barbie has a thing for young London—designers, that is. Louise Gray, Roksanda Ilincic, and Gareth Pugh have all made a special little something for the blonde and her boyfriend, whether it be Dalston-appropriate duds or, in Ilincic’s case, a London dream house. Now, in celebration of Selfridges’ new fourth-floor toy shop, which opens this week, emerging Brit-based brands Sister by Sibling, Fred Butler, and Nasir Mazhar have each dressed five one-off dolls. Sibling’s Cozette McCreery, Sid Bryan, and Joe Bates designed a gaggle of knit looks (above, left), while Butler turned out a series of quirky, sculptural ensembles (above, center). Mazhar created some hard-edged streetwear styles—we especially enjoy the bucket hat and sweat suit getup he fashioned for Ken (above, right). All fifteen dolls will be on display—and for sale—in the toy shop’s Barbie department.
While we saw a slouchy softness across the Resort ’14 collections, a few designers offered an architectural counterproposal by employing sculptural elements, particularly at the shoulder.
Roksanda Ilincic, for example, showed voluminous sleeves that were part bell and part calla lily in shape. The designer accented these silhouettes with glittering PVC—a structural cue in its own right. At Balenciaga, Alexander Wang created a swooped-back crop top, its glacial silk forming an awning over the shoulder blades. J.W. Anderson‘s Jonathan Anderson, too, turned out striking arms in his continued experiment with knitwear, which he describes as “forms of construction.” The designer’s opening Resort look—an all-black knit dress—featured an oversize origami-pleat sleeve that arced over the deltoid. Of his choice to embrace the look, Anderson told us, “I think it was the abstraction in finding something new.”
Color-blocking is undergoing a deconstruction of sorts as the Resort 2014 collections trickle in. Referencing the footholds of cubism, designers system-wide have boldly incorporated abstract forms into their wares, to both svelte and striking effect.
Prabal Gurung (above, center) showed an Americana-tinged tricolored knit dress that blended polka dots, stripes, curves, and angles alike. It had a faint Bauhaus air to it as well. At Peter Pilotto (above, left), Pilotto and his design partner, Christopher De Vos, offered an arresting long-sleeve column in contrasting navy and white. And Roksanda Ilincic (above, right), long known for her shape-pairing skills, presented a day dress of pool-blue and turquoise horizontal stripes, which were interrupted by vertical slivers of yet more midnight, ivory, and a touch of glittering cerulean. We think Picasso would have been proud.
It would seem that Barbie and co. can’t get enough of the London fashion scene. After receiving a rainbow dye job from East London salon Bleach, as well as a graffitied makeover from Louise Gray, last year, and sending Ken to get some new Gareth Pugh threads in 2009, Barbie has tapped Roksanda Ilincic and Nick Knight’s Showstudio to design her new virtual Dreamhouse. Considering Ilincic, who created a frock for Barbie four years ago in honor of her fiftieth anniversary (left), has a background in architecture, we assume she’s more than qualified for the job. Introduced in 1962, Barbie’s Dreamhouses have, of course, traditionally had a Malibu twist, but the new mini-mansion—set to be revealed later this summer—will pull inspiration from London’s gritty streets. Expect a harder, more subversive edge than the previous plastic abodes, but, knowing Ilincic, no less pink.
Most know Gwendoline Christie for her role as the armor-clad Brienne of Tarth on HBO’s fantasy smash Game of Thrones (get ready, the new season kicks off March 31). But when Ms. Christie’s not running through a Westeros battlefield, she’s a full-fledged member of London’s tight-knit fashion pack. You might find her cheering (and we mean cheering) at a good LFW show, squeezed into the front row between Princess Julia and Lulu Kennedy (Christie never misses the runways of close friends like Roksanda Ilincic, Louise Gray, Giles Deacon, and Henry Holland, just to name a few), and the bulk of her GOT press wardrobe was courtesy of pal Richard Nicoll. The six-foot, three-inch actress actually got her start modeling in student shows at the London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins. “I feel quite passionately about London Fashion,” Christie told Style.com. “I think some of the most creative and interesting and brilliant people I know are involved in fashion, and I’m lucky enough that they’re my friends.”
Naturally, however, playing a die-hard warrior will have an effect on one’s look. “I had to cut my hair for Game of Thrones, which I found really hard. I find it quite embarrassing to admit that, but I think a lot of a woman’s femininity is tied up with her hair. Afterward, I had quite a big style overhaul,” says the actress, noting she used to study film-noir stars and covet a “sex bomb” Marilyn Monroe aesthetic. “Now, I look to people like Jean Shrimpton, Katharine Hepburn, Twiggy, and Greta Garbo in her more masculine stage.” Christie’s since embraced her ultra-androgynous makeover (pretty on trend, if we do say). “I think that’s more interesting—like a modern reimagining of femininity.” Continue Reading “Gwendoline Christie: Glamazon Warrior” »