26 posts tagged "Roksanda Ilincic"
Gary Card is a master at making other people’s visions a reality. He’s become the go-to set designer/prop maker/illustrator/artist for the likes of Lady Gaga, Nicola Formichetti, and Nick Knight, and has worked with such top-tier publications as AnOther Magazine, Dazed & Confused, i-D, and T magazine. (Perhaps you saw the flaming, ten-foot-tall, wicker T he built for the latter back in 2009?) But last night in London, Card took a little “me” time and opened his first solo show, Abandoned Amusement Park, at Dalston’s Eternal Youth gallery. “I am used to building things based on the tastes of other people, and it was quite nice to do something for me for a change,” offered the artist.
The exhibition features strange cartoonish figures created with wire and tape, then papier-mâchéd into ghostlike figures. They each have bulbous noses and a look of horror on their faces. “The idea of something like an old relic being rediscovered fascinated me,” explained Card. “This is meant to represent something that has been left to rot, melt, and die, and the tragedy of that is shown in their faces. Yes, it’s cartoonish, and there are definitely sinister undertones, but that is perhaps the way life should be seen.”
The opening was a significant milestone for Card, and he shows no signs of slowing down. Next on the docket are a project with Roksanda Ilincic; a film with Chris Sutton, for SHOWstudio; and a trip to New York to work with Spring Studios. “It is looking to be a very exciting fall,” he said.
If the past few years are any indication, Barbie has a thing for young London—designers, that is. Louise Gray, Roksanda Ilincic, and Gareth Pugh have all made a special little something for the blonde and her boyfriend, whether it be Dalston-appropriate duds or, in Ilincic’s case, a London dream house. Now, in celebration of Selfridges’ new fourth-floor toy shop, which opens this week, emerging Brit-based brands Sister by Sibling, Fred Butler, and Nasir Mazhar have each dressed five one-off dolls. Sibling’s Cozette McCreery, Sid Bryan, and Joe Bates designed a gaggle of knit looks (above, left), while Butler turned out a series of quirky, sculptural ensembles (above, center). Mazhar created some hard-edged streetwear styles—we especially enjoy the bucket hat and sweat suit getup he fashioned for Ken (above, right). All fifteen dolls will be on display—and for sale—in the toy shop’s Barbie department.
While we saw a slouchy softness across the Resort ’14 collections, a few designers offered an architectural counterproposal by employing sculptural elements, particularly at the shoulder.
Roksanda Ilincic, for example, showed voluminous sleeves that were part bell and part calla lily in shape. The designer accented these silhouettes with glittering PVC—a structural cue in its own right. At Balenciaga, Alexander Wang created a swooped-back crop top, its glacial silk forming an awning over the shoulder blades. J.W. Anderson‘s Jonathan Anderson, too, turned out striking arms in his continued experiment with knitwear, which he describes as “forms of construction.” The designer’s opening Resort look—an all-black knit dress—featured an oversize origami-pleat sleeve that arced over the deltoid. Of his choice to embrace the look, Anderson told us, “I think it was the abstraction in finding something new.”
Color-blocking is undergoing a deconstruction of sorts as the Resort 2014 collections trickle in. Referencing the footholds of cubism, designers system-wide have boldly incorporated abstract forms into their wares, to both svelte and striking effect.
Prabal Gurung (above, center) showed an Americana-tinged tricolored knit dress that blended polka dots, stripes, curves, and angles alike. It had a faint Bauhaus air to it as well. At Peter Pilotto (above, left), Pilotto and his design partner, Christopher De Vos, offered an arresting long-sleeve column in contrasting navy and white. And Roksanda Ilincic (above, right), long known for her shape-pairing skills, presented a day dress of pool-blue and turquoise horizontal stripes, which were interrupted by vertical slivers of yet more midnight, ivory, and a touch of glittering cerulean. We think Picasso would have been proud.
It would seem that Barbie and co. can’t get enough of the London fashion scene. After receiving a rainbow dye job from East London salon Bleach, as well as a graffitied makeover from Louise Gray, last year, and sending Ken to get some new Gareth Pugh threads in 2009, Barbie has tapped Roksanda Ilincic and Nick Knight’s Showstudio to design her new virtual Dreamhouse. Considering Ilincic, who created a frock for Barbie four years ago in honor of her fiftieth anniversary (left), has a background in architecture, we assume she’s more than qualified for the job. Introduced in 1962, Barbie’s Dreamhouses have, of course, traditionally had a Malibu twist, but the new mini-mansion—set to be revealed later this summer—will pull inspiration from London’s gritty streets. Expect a harder, more subversive edge than the previous plastic abodes, but, knowing Ilincic, no less pink.