36 posts tagged "Roland Mouret"
Roland Mouret has been busy dreaming up a new look for the Robert Clergerie man, one he defines as slightly offbeat, a tad psychedelic, but eminently wearable. “The way I see it, you can either do ‘heritage’ or you can create your own identity,” said Mouret upon arriving at the relaunch party he hosted at Maxim’s in Paris last night. “For me, the point of heritage is to break it down and do something new.” Robert Clergerie himself, hale and hearty at 79, joined in the process by sending Mouret a selection of his favorite styles.
There are more than 1,000 pairs of shoes in Clergerie’s nearly 120-year-old archives. (The company predates the man, who purchased and renamed the house in 1978.) Two pairs in particular—one from 1918 and another from 1926—came to inform the Spring ’14 line of derbies, oxfords, boots, and Chelsea boots that are part twenties and, true to Mouret’s style, part eighties.
“Clergerie always had a rock-and-roll spirit,” noted the house’s president, Eva Taub. “Robert’s first shoes for women were actually quite masculine. This spring we’re kind of pushing that signature androgyny in a new direction.” Added Mouret, “The 21st century is not about playing things safe. It’s about going your own way.”
Many designers claim to make real clothes for real women, but that claim isn’t quite convincing when the collections are presented on twiggy teenagers wearing wigs and a bucketload of makeup. However, several of the Pre-Fall lookbooks that star non-models suggest change is coming. Take, for example, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, who showcased their latest lineup for The Row on silver-haired beauty entrepreneur Linda Rodin as well as old-school catwalkers Esther de Jong and Ursula Wallis. Their mature casting underscored the sophistication of the collection. Roland Mouret also likes to feature strong, creative characters. After spotlighting DJ Mimi Xu for Resort, Mouret snapped eccentric knitwear designer/arts patron Tiphaine de Lussy for Pre-Fall. Last but not least, stylist and street-style favorite Ursina Gysi posed for Sonia Rykiel this season. We’re hoping to see fashion promote real people more often in the future.
Following Emma Hill’s departure from the house earlier this year, Mulberry has announced that it will not be sending its Fall ’14 collection down the catwalk during London Fashion Week in February. The British brand told WWD that it has “not finalized its creative director search,” and that it will still participate in LFW, on a smaller scale. Word on the street is that Mary Katrantzou, Roland Mouret, Erdem Moralioglu, and Sophie Hulme—whose handbags have generated quite a buzz among editors and consumers alike—are all potentially up for the gig.