44 posts tagged "Roland Mouret"
For women who have always dreamed of owning a Roland Mouret “Galaxy” dress, getting the look will be a whole lot easier come August. Mouret has teamed up with Banana Republic for a twenty-five-piece capsule collection comprised of pants, skirts, tops, and, of course, exceptionally tailored dresses. Mouret says the collection won’t include watered-down copies of past designs, but will instead give the global Banana Republic customer base the luxury of an ultra-flattering yet attainable dress. “The common goal for this collection is to offer incredible fit through an assortment of hourglass silhouettes using Banana Republic’s Sloan fabric, extending my love of structure into accessible prices,” he said. Mouret experimented with color-blocking, leopard prints, and new proportions, which he hand-draped, cut, and pinned to the body.
“I’m so inspired by Roland’s skill for draping and fit,” said Melloney Birkett, vice president of women’s design at Banana Republic. “He has such a strong sense of how to dress a woman, and brings a beautiful sensuality to his work.” The collection will be available in select Banana Republic stores worldwide and online from August 2014, and prices will range from $49.50 to $165.
“It’s like my wedding day!” exclaimed Palter DeLiso cofounder and president Lauren Bruksch. “Except in this case, I’m the groom, watching Karen [Elson] walk down the aisle.” Bruksch is talking about the recently relaunched luxury shoe brand Palter DeLiso’s premiere millennial campaign—a retro-futuristic vision of a woman (fiery-locked Elson) embarking on a rather glamorous excursion from JFK’s currently out-of-commission Eero Saarinen-designed TWA Flight Center, all the while wearing some very cared-for pumps. Along with her cofounder, creative director Taz Saunders, Bruksch’s been planning and anxiously awaiting the campaign shoot day for months now, and it’s here at last. Elson, who is being shot by fashion photographer Ellen von Unwerth, is decked out in a fifties-style Roland Mouret dress and cherry-red Valentino cape, preening and waving as the camera clicks. Her feet, of course, slide into Palter DeLiso’s Fall ’14 heels—first, an ink-drop-stained pair of slender pumps and, later, a classic nude heel.
“I think the thing that we immediately realized is that [ours] is such an authentic story,” said Bruksch of the brand, which was initially founded in New York, in 1927, and later credited with inventing the peep-toe slingback. “I feel like there are so many brands that pop up and say, ‘Luxury this’ or ‘American heritage.’ Palter DeLiso has such a clear tie to the heritage, and it’s remaining really true.”
For Ellen von Unwerth, reviving—and modernizing—the Palter DeLiso image was all about creating a story of stylized adventure. “You know, this is an old brand from the fifties, so we decided to find a location that has a little bit of that aspect, but is also photogenic and interesting and can create a story—the woman traveling,” explained von Unwerth between shots. “So we pulled pictures from the fifties, of Avedon or Marilyn—you know, the pictures that make us dream. [For] me at least.”
In its first life, Palter DeLiso was photographed by Richard Avedon, Richard Rutledge, Karen Radkai, and others. The behind-the-scenes images from the new campaign debut here. Bruksch and Saunders hope the final products will embody the spirit of the original ads. That said, Bruksch insists, “Now, it’s less about looking to the past and more about, had the brand never gone away and never eclipsed, who would Palter DeLiso be today?”
Fashion collaborations are a dime a dozen these days, but every once in a while, we come across one that just makes sense. The latest case in point is A.L.C. x Robert Clergerie. As a longtime fan of the renowned footwear brand (creatively helmed by current artistic director Roland Mouret), designer Andrea Lieberman jumped at the opportunity to join forces with Clergerie on a limited-edition style that complements her Spring ’14 collection. What does Lieberman look for in a great shoe? “The same thing I look for in my wardrobe: incredible versatility, comfort—knowing everything I have to do in a day—and a bit of unconventional edge,” she told Style.com. “The process was effortless. It was important for us to maintain the integrity of A.L.C.’s DNA and also Clergerie’s.” Gilles Assor, vice president of Robert Clergerie U.S., added, “We felt a genuine synergy from our first meetings.”
The result of the partnership is a pair of architectural wedge sandals, which debut exclusively here. The kicks are an updated version of Clergerie’s signature Danvin style, reimagined with a gray suede body and a platform, featuring textured white and black patent leather. Arriving in select Intermix stores across the country this weekend, the new shoes have us excited for the warmer months ahead. Are there more Clergerie collabs in A.L.C.’s future? “I feel like we’ve forged a great friendship,” said Lieberman. “That being said, I am a slave to the shoe department, and however it manifests itself in the future is all good by me.” After all, A.L.C. recently launched a handbag line, so a footwear line isn’t out of the question.
The A.L.C. x Robert Clergerie limited-edition sandals ($595) will be sold exclusively at four Intermix retailers: Robertson Boulevard, L.A.; Bal Harbour, Florida; Soho, NYC; and Madison Avenue, NYC.
Roland Mouret has been busy dreaming up a new look for the Robert Clergerie man, one he defines as slightly offbeat, a tad psychedelic, but eminently wearable. “The way I see it, you can either do ‘heritage’ or you can create your own identity,” said Mouret upon arriving at the relaunch party he hosted at Maxim’s in Paris last night. “For me, the point of heritage is to break it down and do something new.” Robert Clergerie himself, hale and hearty at 79, joined in the process by sending Mouret a selection of his favorite styles.
There are more than 1,000 pairs of shoes in Clergerie’s nearly 120-year-old archives. (The company predates the man, who purchased and renamed the house in 1978.) Two pairs in particular—one from 1918 and another from 1926—came to inform the Spring ’14 line of derbies, oxfords, boots, and Chelsea boots that are part twenties and, true to Mouret’s style, part eighties.
“Clergerie always had a rock-and-roll spirit,” noted the house’s president, Eva Taub. “Robert’s first shoes for women were actually quite masculine. This spring we’re kind of pushing that signature androgyny in a new direction.” Added Mouret, “The 21st century is not about playing things safe. It’s about going your own way.”
Many designers claim to make real clothes for real women, but that claim isn’t quite convincing when the collections are presented on twiggy teenagers wearing wigs and a bucketload of makeup. However, several of the Pre-Fall lookbooks that star non-models suggest change is coming. Take, for example, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, who showcased their latest lineup for The Row on silver-haired beauty entrepreneur Linda Rodin as well as old-school catwalkers Esther de Jong and Ursula Wallis. Their mature casting underscored the sophistication of the collection. Roland Mouret also likes to feature strong, creative characters. After spotlighting DJ Mimi Xu for Resort, Mouret snapped eccentric knitwear designer/arts patron Tiphaine de Lussy for Pre-Fall. Last but not least, stylist and street-style favorite Ursina Gysi posed for Sonia Rykiel this season. We’re hoping to see fashion promote real people more often in the future.