2 posts tagged "Rudi Gernreich"
The mission statement of CRUSHFanzine is simple: pure, unadulterated idol worship. Its first few issues focused on single objects of affection—Charlotte Rampling, model Arthur Kulkov—and for its latest, arriving in stores today, the broader and more various target: Women We Love. Those include Anjelica Huston, Amanda Lear, Chloë Sevigny, and Daryl Hannah, but the highlight of the new issue for me is legendary model and Rudi Gernreich muse Peggy Moffitt. Daniel Trese shot her at home, which might, with her collection of archival Gernreich, qualify as an L.A. museum of sorts; fitting, then, that Kaye Spilker, the costume curator of LACMA, was chosen to conduct the Q&A. Given our own recent magazine about rule breaking, I was most tickled by Spilker’s question of whether it was still possible to do anything shocking in fashion. “Well, I’m sure it is,” Moffitt said, laughing. “But I hope nobody asks me. I’d love to sit the next one out, because it sure is tiring.” The price of fame! A few shots from the shoot, plus an exclusive unpublished portrait, debut above.
“Oscar weekend brings out a lot of art lovers, and this is the best of art and fashion and celebrity,” curator Cameron Silver explains of The Total Look: The Creative Collaboration Between Rudi Gernreich, Peggy Moffitt, and William Claxton, opening today. On display at MOCA Pacific Design Center in what is now a yearly Oscar weekend debut tradition (last year, Rodarte unveiled its Black Swan designs in the space), the collection celebrates a collaboration that found its roots in Los Angeles. “I can think of no other model/muse relationship,” Silver recalled of the iconic, boundary-pushing model and oft-referenced designer. “It was really collaborative—and then you bring in William Claxton [Moffitt's husband], who was taking the photos, and it was almost Peggy and her two husbands.”
The multimedia experience conveys some of Claxton’s most notable imagery (including never-before-seen pointillisms of Moffitt he produced before he died), in addition to a continuous reel of what some consider to be the first fashion film, The Total Look. But for Silver, Moffitt’s legacy lies in the 66-piece collection, which includes the one thing that started it all: the topless swimsuit. “It signifies the liberation of women in fashion and it’s such a hallmark in fashion history—it’s the birth of modern fashion.”