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July 23 2014

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21 posts tagged "Ruffian"

The Split-Second Preview: Ruffian

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The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.

Ruffian

WHO: Ruffian, designed by Brian Wolk and Claude Morais

WHERE: New York

WHEN: Saturday, February 8

WHAT: “For Fall ’14, we explored monastic opulence and tailored volume with lavish sumptuousness. We’ll also introduce a new hat collection with Stetson.”—Brian Wolk and Claude Morais. The designers sent us an exclusive first look at their Stetson hats, above.

Photo: Courtesy of Ruffian

Ruffian Turns to Gondoliers and Beachy Debauchery

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Ruffian Shoe Collaboration

Even though Labor Day traditionally marks the end of of summer fun, Ruffian‘s Brian Wolk and Claude Morais aren’t ready to jet home quite yet. For their Spring ’14 show on Saturday, the designers are set to introduce a collection rooted in Côte d’Azur debauchery, veiled in a layer of Italian heritage thanks to a collaboration with Giulia Campeol’s Venice-based footwear label, Allagiulia.

“Giulia’s family made Friulana slippers, which are the shoes that gondoliers wear,” Wolk told Style.com. “The soles are traditionally made out of discarded bike tires so that they don’t slip on the boats. She brought them to the next level, using more fabrics and textiles.” Added Morais, “And we’ve adapted that signature.”

The result—a leather-fringed, polka-dotted, tire-rubber-sole flat (which debuts exclusively above) —smartly conveys the evolution from the canal to the catwalk. “Giulia came to our studio, and we looked at all of our reference images for the lineup—fifties Saint-Tropez,” said Wolk, adding that the author Françoise Sagan, a literary enfant terrible of sorts, also served as a Spring muse.

It’s Sagan’s breathlessly paced life that informs the rest of the collection, which is dubbed Ingenue. “She was very much a Ruffian. She drove race cars, she was always in trouble, and she actually had to go to rehab in the south of France,” said Wolk. “At Ruffian there’s always a good girl who has gone a little bit bad.”

Photo: Courtesy of Ruffian

Can’t Beat the Real Thing

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Despite last night’s spontaneous blizzard, designers and fashion fixtures headed to Finale NYC to fête the launch of eBay and the CFDA’s 2013 You Can’t Fake Fashion tote collection. Marking the pair’s third collaborative effort to fight counterfeits and support authentic design, the new range features 90 one-of-a-kind canvas tote bags that have been customized by designers like Prabal Gurung (above, center), Pamela Love, Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg (above, right), and Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy (above, left). The designer-embellished bags are available for purchase via eBay auction through March 25 for a starting price of $100. The initiative is also offering a new standard tote for a “buy it now” price of $50. Proceeds will go toward combating fakes.

“As artists, we work so hard to create something, and then it gets knocked off,” said Rebecca Minkoff. “This is a great platform to ensure authenticity.” Carly Cushnie of Cushnie et Ochs concurs, and suggested that there’s security in knowing her and her design partner Michelle Ochs’ work is protected. “The CFDA has a voice that brings everyone together to preserve design integrity,” she said.

In addition to the likes of CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, Jeffrey Costello, Robert Tagliapietra, and Rebecca Taylor, Ruffian’s Brian Wolk and Claude Morais turned up to rally for the cause. And, according to Morais, they have a particularly special relationship with eBay. “We’re always using the site as a reference point. Right now it’s all about the 1920s and the hunt for the perfect embroidered dress.” We’re sensing a Jazz Age vibe for the team’s Spring ’14.

Photo: Courtesy of You Can’t Fake Fashion

A Trip Down the Bowery with Ruffian and Frye

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If Sherlock Holmes were a woman, in an opium den, on the Bowery, at the turn of the century, what would she wear? This is precisely the question Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais will try to answer with their upcoming Fall ’13 collection, which takes to the runway on February 9. To help achieve this particular aesthetic fantasy, the duo has teamed up with Frye—who will celebrate its 150 anniversary this year—to create a range of runway shoes, all of which will be available on the brand’s Web site. “We love to work with other American companies, especially companies that manufacture here in the USA,” said Wolk, adding that Ruffian and Frye’s shared appreciation for craftsmanship made the partnership a natural choice. The shoes and boots will exhibit classic Ruffian-esque attention to detail, like hand embroidery, jet beads, snakeskin, custom tassels, and—wait for it—twenty-four-karat gold leaf cuffs. The designers gave Style.com an exclusive sneak peek at their collaborative kicks via two sketches (above). As for this week’s show, Wolk revealed that the collection is called “Revery.” “We like to take walks as part of our creative process, so we want the show to be a walk on the Bowery on a magical night—an exciting, smoky evening.”

Now In Print: Ruffian Toile

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Before their runway show at Lincoln Center tomorrow, Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais gave Style.com an exclusive first look at what they have in store. Last time around, the duo found inspiration in the English countryside, but this season, they found the magic right here in New York. They have collaborated with New York-based artist John Gordon Gauld (who they later found out happens to be the grandson of legendary hatmaker Lilly Daché) on a Ruffian toile, which will be featured in the collection tomorrow. “We first met him at his opening at the James Salomon Gallery in Chelsea and instantly fell in love with his work,” Wolk tells Style.com. “Claude and I took a bunch of pictures of Williamsburg and he created the artwork for this new take on toile de Jouy.” Here, a preview of the print.