10 posts tagged "Ruth Hogben"
Today in Florence, Gareth Pugh shows his new Fall ’11 women’s collection as part of Pitti W. SHOWstudio alumna Ruth Hogben (who created the film Pugh screened with his collection last season, and also lensed the video with Mariacarla Boscono for Barneys.com and Givenchy) created a short to play alongside, inspired by “religious iconography and Florentine opulence.” Check it out below; we’ll be posting our coverage of the collection shortly.
Riccardo Tisci’s bags and shoes have long been available to e-commerce shoppers on Barneys’ Web site, but those after his ready-to-wear have had to repair to stores to get their fix. As of tomorrow, that all changes. Tisci’s collections hit the store’s e-tail site tomorrow, and the assembled parties are celebrating as fashion partiers these days prefer to: With a short, atmospheric film, and plenty of leopard. The designer’s muse and longtime friend, Mariacarla Boscono (above, in a still from the video), lent her talents for the clip, directed by SHOWStudio.com alum Ruth Hogben, who’s worked previously with the likes of Gareth Pugh and Celine. The video, goes up on Barneys.com tomorrow.
The trade-fair tale is often best told by the numbers: This year, Pitti Uomo has 765 exhibitors showing a total of 936 brands over 59,000 square meters. What possible sense can you hope to make of that in the mere hours you have, wandering with increasing aimlessness down avenue after avenue of immaculately made men’s clothing and accessories? Certain trends impress with their omnipresence. Winter 2010 is clearly all about duffel coats, heavy hiking-influenced footwear, and a strengthened Japanese presence. I was particularly taken with the label Anachronorm, which fetishizes American workwear like boiler suits with all the lovingly accurate detail we expect from the Japanese. (Here’s one from Fall 2009, left.)
Before Gareth Pugh was Gareth Pugh, he was faced with a choice: to study sculpture at the Slade School of Fine Art or enter the legendary fashion program at Central Saint Martins. As you know, Pugh chose fashion. But in the years since, the designer has made a routine of conflating art and fashion, to his own surreally idiosyncratic ends. Treating the catwalk as gallery space, he’s shown collections intended only to be seen, never sold. Experimenting with material and volume, Pugh crafted a catsuit out of balloons, plaster of Paris, and Saran Wrap, and wired a giant coat with tiny lights. He set up his first studio in the squat occupied by the members of the club-kid artists’ co-op !WOWOW!, and embarked on an ongoing collaboration with the filmmaker Ruth Hogben. Their latest video project, an installation of four films based on the elements fire, water, earth, and air, debuted last month at MAC & Milk during New York fashion week. The short provided what Pugh describes as a preview to the Spring 2010 collection he showed earlier today in Paris. Here, Pugh talks to Style.com about stealth bombers, brand strategy, and why the fast-fashion-eers should keep calling.
You’ve been cast as a fashion wunderkind pretty much from the day you presented your degree collection at Central Saint Martins. But were you actually a fashion prodigy?
I came to fashion through an interest in theater, actually. Where I’m from, Sunderland, there’s just not a consciousness about fashion. But I’d come down to London with my mother when I was about 10 to see The Phantom of the Opera. There was something about that experience, not just the play but also walking out of the theater and through these dark streets in Soho, that captured my imagination. So when I was 14, I applied for and was accepted into the National Youth Theatre’s summer program. I worked in their costume department for three years. But prior to that—yes, in fact, I did a fair amount of fiddling on the sewing machine.
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We’ve been hearing whispers about Gareth Pugh at New York fashion week for what feels like all summer, but just today his P.R. office confirmed that the London designer will be showing a video directed by Ruth Hogben at MAC & Milk on September 13. “When MAC invited me to be part of their New York fashion week plans, I thought it was the perfect opportunity for me to make a new fashion film,” Pugh explained in an e-mail. “It will hopefully set the mood for my catwalk show, which will take place as usual in Paris. It will represent the essence of what the show this season is about, although it couldn’t be further from a trailer. It’s more of an abstract insight.” A private showing for invited guests will take place between 8 and 10 p.m. on the 13th. Afterward—wait for it—he’ll screen the short film for the public at a nearby address. Pugh fans can get their names on the guest list by logging on to MAC’s Facebook page.