78 posts tagged "Saint Laurent"
Even though he marked out some prime territory on both the Right and Left Banks of Paris, Yves Saint Laurent never set up shop on the ultra-luxurious Avenue Montaigne. But with Hedi Slimane one year into his role as creative director, the house is in full-on makeover mode—and that includes a new global flagship reestablishing Saint Laurent’s provocative spirit, only now on Slimane’s terms.
Although the store, which officially opens on Thursday, is not the first location to show off the designer’s monochrome, marble-heavy aesthetic (that honor went to Shanghai last fall), it offers the most thorough selection of women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear, and jewelry. Slimane has a knack for retail design. His black leather benches share DNA with those of Le Corbusier and van der Rohe; no doubt someone will inquire whether they are available to purchase. There’s a VIP space with an L-shaped banquette that could comfortably seat a star’s entourage, and floor-to-ceiling matte screens at various points feature the designer’s personal photography.
You need only visit the Saint Laurent boutique on Faubourg Saint-Honoré to appreciate how Slimane has imposed his distinctly personal vision on the brand. The not-yet-renovated Faubourg Saint-Honoré shop represents the extroverted, glossy glamour of the Tom Ford era. The glamour of Montaigne is subtler, more severe, and even a bit offbeat. Just try naming one other luxury shop in Paris that plays The Byrds.
Accessories—including the famous duffel Slimane originally designed for himself—are given space to breathe on the ground level. The new Vermeil jewelry collection is presented in mirrored shelving within nickel-plated brass vitrines. On the second floor, scrims pulled down over the windows create a light-box ambience, underscoring the contrast between this twenty-first-century interior and the beaux arts building that the space inhabits.
Parisians, enthusiastic complainers that they are, might bemoan the store as too austere and un-Yves, that the space feels more Melrose than Montaigne, that even though you can still find a Le Smoking, a chiffon pussy-bow dress, or a wide-brimmed hat, it no longer has that je-ne-sais-quoi French touch. The French, of course, are also better at holding dear to the past than looking forward. Slimane might be headquartered in L.A. (where a Saint Laurent store is also opening this week), but he’s certainly thrown down the gauntlet in the City of Light.
Narrowing down the season’s top newcomers to just ten girls is never an easy task. After following their progress through New York, London, Milan, and Paris, we admittedly feel a bit like stage moms cheering on all the rookies. But, considering Fall ’13′s impressive crop of fresh faces, picking our favorites this season was even more gut-wrenching than usual.
At the end of the day, however, decisions have to be made. But the runners-up deserve a round of applause, too. At the top of our list of girls who almost made the cut is Elisabeth Erm (WILHELMINA), who shot to the front of the pack after walking Calvin Klein in New York, and then went on to kill it in Europe. She ended particularly strong in Paris, turning up at Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, and Miu Miu, among others. Another girl who boasted a very impressive show list was Nicole Pollard (ELITE), a favorite of Raf Simons, who closed the month with twenty-seven top-tier turns, including Dior, Alexander Wang, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, and Givenchy.
Some girls only walked a few shows, but that doesn’t mean they went unnoticed. Take Binx Walton (NEXT), for instance. The Tennessee native racked up exclusives at Marc Jacobs and Versace, and also appeared at Miu Miu in Paris, and Giles and Sister by Sibling in London (clearly, Katie Grand, who styles both collections, is a fan). Breathtaking brunettes Elise Smidt (WOMEN) and Lauren English (IMG) also went the selective but premium route. Smidt caught the eye of casting directors in Milan, at Prada and Jil Sander, then went on to hit the runway at Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Chloé, and Dior in Paris. English emerged as a favorite of Alexander Wang (who definitely has a sixth sense for models) in New York, then turned up again on his Balenciaga catwalk in Paris. She rounded out the season with Céline, Acne Studios, Loewe, and Maison Martin Margiela. Keep an eye out for these ladies during the next few months—we have a feeling you’ll be seeing more of them.
Fashion loves a Bowie reference. And thanks to his latest album, The Next Day, his killer “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)” music vid, and the V&A’s new exhibition, David Bowie is, the luminary’s legacy—sartorial and otherwise—lives on. Fittingly, the Spring ’13 collections are teeming with glam-rock garb—from bold graphics to electric color. We even spotted some head-to-toe sequin stripes. Channel your inner Ziggy and shop our picks from Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent, and more, below.
1. Alexander McQueen jacket, $4,650, available at www.net-a-porter.com
2. Marc Jacobs jumpsuit, $8,065, available at www.mytheresa.com
3. CC Skye ring, $110, available at www.shopbop.com
4. Burberry Prorsum pumps, $695, available at www.net-a-porter.com
5. Saint Laurent lavaliere, $295, available at www.ysl.com
To view more looks, click here.
The concept of blurred gender lines isn’t anything new. But it’s been at the front of our minds over the last few months, after seeing gaggles of girls dressed like boys (Saskia de Brauw in Saint Laurent’s Spring menswear campaign, Tamy Glauser, Jenny Shimizu, and Ashleigh Good on Givenchy’s Fall ’13 men’s runway) and boys dressed like girls (thank you, J.W. Anderson and Meadham Kirchhoff ). The art world seems to be pondering the topic, too. Evidence? Last night’s opening of Ladies & Gents—an exhibition at Salomon Contemporary that aims to cheekily explore our perception of the sexes. Featuring sixteen works, like Kiki Smith’s Daisy Chain (a long metal chain with a woman’s head and feet, made in 1992), Deborah Kass’ Four Barbras, Six Red Barbras, Four Barbras (a 1993 Barbra Streisand-centric silk-screen series), and Judith Hudson’s Bribe (an irreverent 2009 watercolor of a topless, pearl-adorned woman), the show lightheartedly juxtaposes masculinity and femininity, and sometimes fuses both. Take, for instance, E.V. Day’s work Spidey / Striptease (2012). Known for deconstructing fashion items (like a Chanel jacket, an Hervé Léger bandage dress, and pink panties) and stringing them up into complicated webs, Day presented a piece that combined a shredded Spider-Man costume, fishnets, and red stiletto heels. “I love Spider-Man, because his web looks just like a fishnet stocking,” said Day. “And that brought me to the realization that there’s a feminine idea about him,” she added.
Nir Hod—who showed Genius, a new painting that depicts a jaded, judgmental child wearing what looks like Elizabethan clothes while he smokes a cigarette—insisted that his work is about pure beauty. “That’s beyond gender. If you asked me if this was a boy or a girl, I couldn’t even tell you.” Continue Reading “Ladies & Gents, Unsexed” »
David Bowie’s new video, “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”, has generated much buzz among the fashion set—and understandably so, considering the singer looks pretty slick in his Pringle sweaters, McQueen trench, and Saint Laurent jacket. But today it was announced that the rock star is embarking on a new style-centric venture: a series of collaborations with Paul Smith, the first of which is the official T-shirt for Bowie’s upcoming album, The Next Day (above). Looks like Justin Timberlake and Tom Ford (who announced their partnership in January) might have some competition.
Paul Smith’s The Next Day T-shirt will be available at paulsmith.co.uk from March 7.