78 posts tagged "Saint Laurent"
From the streets of New York to the Paris ateliers, fashion is in a California state of mind. For proof, look at all the references to West Coast skate, surf, rave, grunge, and lowrider subcultures on the Spring ’14 runways. Hedi Slimane, who was fetishizing Los Angeles and its underground scenes long before he landed at Saint Laurent, is at least partly responsible for this mass migration, but Kate and Laura Mulleavy deserve credit, too. After taking us “back home to Santa Cruz” last season, the Rodarte sisters’ L.A.-inspired lineup was full of chola-girl plaid shirts styled with snapbacks, satin bras, studded suspenders, and fringed skirts. Tommy Hilfiger, meanwhile, transformed Pier 94 into an epic beachscape with a boardwalk runway that complemented his sun-kissed, sporty clothes; Humberto Leon and Carol Lim channeled SoCal street racing at Opening Ceremony; and Jeremy Laing described his Spring collection as “Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave.”
Though perhaps an enfant no more, Jean Paul Gaultier’s long-standing reputation as one of fashion’s enfants terribles hardly jives with the concept of a traditional museum retrospective. In fact, Gaultier himself finds it hard to imagine his designs in such a setting. “I am from the generation where, when I saw an exhibition of someone’s work, they were dead!” he told us. “I think I am still alive, and I never in my dreams thought that a museum could be interested in the work I’m doing.”
However, judging by the buzz around The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk, both museums and the masses are keen on a comprehensive showcase of the designer’s work. And, having bowed in 2011 at the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts, this traveling exhibition is, of course, anything but ordinary. Set to make its East Coast debut at the Brooklyn Museum this Friday, the Thierry-Maxime Loriot-curated show offers a look at Gaultier’s career through the lens of his fixations, from punk rock to corsetry to his many muses. Animated faces (including the visage of Gaultier himself, which is paired with his signature Breton shirt) are projected on many of the show’s mannequins. Elsewhere, S&M-inspired gear is shown in stacked booths reminiscent of a red light district. Ahead of the New York opening, Style.com caught up with the master himself to talk reality television, haute couture, and his career as an accidental provocateur.
When you were initially approached about having an exhibition, did you ever feel any reluctance?
At the beginning, yes. I refused. For me, it was truly for dead people. But after meeting the team at the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts, I thought, “Ah! Maybe we can do something that is not dead.” It’s nice because it’s a new adventure and it’s not one fixed, chronological exhibition. I did not want it by color or year. I prefer to group the clothes by the things that I’m obsessed with, or the things that are important to me, with different periods mixed together.
Your Spring ’14 runway show took inspiration from both Dancing With the Stars and Grease. Has your relationship with pop culture changed over the years?
I have always been impressed by rock culture, rock shows, people like Mick Jagger, David Bowie, and the New York Dolls—all that influenced me. I look a lot at TV, even trashy programs, reality TV sometimes, and love the contests like Dancing With the Stars. I think I am a little American that way! It’s super interesting, psychologically, and I love performance. Continue Reading “Jean Paul Gaultier: “My Purpose Is Not To Shock”” »
Come mid-2014, Christopher Bailey will be doubling his workload. Today, Burberry announced that Bailey will replace Angela Ahrendts as CEO in addition to maintaining his role as creative director, which he’s held for the past six years. Ahrendts has been tapped by Apple and will step into the newly created position of senior vice president. This isn’t the first time the tech giant had looked to the fashion biz for new talent: Last July, Apple hired former Saint Laurent CEO Paul Deneve to work on special projects. Maybe Karl Lagerfeld was onto something with his informatics-inspired Spring ’14 Fendi collection—in any event, we have a feeling tech is about to get crazy chic.
Tomorrow China’s leading luxury retailer, Lane Crawford, will open the doors to its brand-new Yabu Pushelberg-designed Shanghai flagship. A veritable designer mecca, the outpost is LC’s largest property and stands to stock five hundred international fashion, jewelry, beauty, and lifestyle brands.
A buying team of eighty-five experts curated the store’s comprehensive brand selection, which includes everything from Saint Laurent to Sacai to J.Crew. Lane Crawford is notable for introducing the latter into the Chinese market for the first time. Additionally, the three-floor store boasts a series of pop ups, and three homegrown labels—Helen Lee, Ms. Min, and Chictopia—will be carried in the flagship’s Hub section, which aims to promote and nurture emerging industry talents. Lane Crawford is also set to implement its first e-tail meets in-store facet in Shanghai: Customers will be able to pick up and return Internet orders at a special concierge center, marking an innovative fusion between the online and the on-ground.
Lane Crawford plays a long-standing and important role in China’s luxury goods landscape, with multiple branches already operating in other cities such as Hong Kong and Beijing. But Shanghai holds a special place in its heart. “Since the company opened its first store here in 1872, the city has been an important part of our heritage,” said company president Andrew Keith. “We are thrilled to be back.”
Kering—the French fashion corporation that recently invested in Joseph Altuzarra and serves as the parent company to Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent, Gucci, Christopher Kane, and Stella McCartney—has branched out into publishing with a new weekly online magazine that’s aptly dubbed K. Having debuted on Tuesday, the first issue offers everything from an in-depth story on Palais Galliera director Olivier Saillard, to an interview with Boucheron president Pierre Bouissou, to a write-up by skateboarder Remy Stratton about growing up in California and his unorthodox career, to industry news. WWD reports that the next issue will feature an article on Vogue Italia‘s editor in chief, Franca Sozzani. But considering Kering’s roster, we’re rooting for some interviews with its star designers. Share the wealth!—editorially speaking.