33 posts tagged "Sarah Burton"
As if designers aren’t busy enough during the month of September, what with presenting their Spring collections and all, a quintet of fashion’s major names have signed on to create custom costumes for the New York City Ballet’s opening night performances on September 23. Along with Carolina Herrera, Valentino Garavani, Thom Browne, and Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton, London star Mary Katrantzou has crafted spectacular ensembles for the NYCB’s agile performers. Katrantzou worked closely with NYCB resident choreographer Justin Peck to come up with the looks, which play off her lace-centric Resort ’14 collection. “I didn’t want to go costumey,” said Katrantzou of the wares, adding that she aimed to emphasize the dancers’ movements and physiques. “I thought, Why don’t we do something that’s a second skin instead of something with lots of volume or construction? I wanted to do something subtle. Justin’s work is very clean. It evokes a certain emotion, and I wanted the costumes to mimic that.” A sketch of the lace-appliquéd outfits debuts exclusively here.
Katrantzou’s confections are almost entirely nude and sheer. The male dancer’s look is essentially a lace bodysuit, while the ballerina’s costume features an added translucent tulle skirt. The dancers will wear pigmented undergarments for a touch of color, but there’s a heated debate about the final touch—the ballet slippers. “I didn’t know it was controversial to tint the ballet shoe!” laughed Katrantzou, who’s hoping to dye the dancers’ slippers to achieve an extra pop. “You’re so used to seeing them in pink, so we’re going to color them and see how it feels when they’re dancing.”
A few weeks ago, Katrantzou had another Resort-related coup when a very different kind of performer—country singer-turned-pop star Taylor Swift—wore the designer’s typography-embellished jumpsuit to the VMAs. “It was interesting to see her make that choice,” said Katrantzou, who created the romper in a custom colorway for Swift. “We are used to seeing Taylor dress differently, but this had the right level of risk, and, you know, she has incredible legs. I thought she looked amazing, and she had never worn me before, so to see her turn out in Resort in such a big way was a great thing.” Now all Katrantzou needs to do is knock our socks off with her Spring outing, set to debut during London fashion week, and she’ll be able to celebrate a hat trick of successes. No pressure, though.
Given her close relationship with the house and the late designer, it’s somewhat surprising that Kate Moss has never fronted an Alexander McQueen campaign. This season, however, the brand has remedied that, and tapped the forty-year-old supe to star in its Steven Klein-lensed Spring ’14 ads, two of which debut exclusively here. Barefaced and clad in Sarah Burton’s black leather and gold warrior wares, Moss sports an acid orange pixie cut in the snaps—a touch that lends the images a Fifth Element-meets-Hunger Games vibe. (Fitting, considering McQueen frocks pop up on more than a few occasions in Catching Fire.) Also starring in the ads is a sufficiently unnerving mini Moss doll, who’s styled to match the model. We imagine that the toy’s role will become clear in Klein’s film for the brand. Inspired by the voyeuristic 1960s British thriller, Peeping Tom, the short is set to go live on McQueen’s Web site at 8 a.m. EST. Can Moss top her ghostly Fall 2006 performance for the house, in which she was projected onto the designer’s runway as a floating hologram? Head over to www.alexandermcqueen.com to find out.
We first saw signs up geared-up girls during the Spring ready-to-wear collections, when Alexander McQueen‘s Sarah Burton presented warrior women donning arm-length gilded cuffs. This embrace of aggressive arm accessories re-emerged at the Spring Couture shows, where Chanel and Maison Martin Margiela proposed accouterments that exuded a “don’t mess with me” attitude. Karl’s girls complemented their trainers (and fanny packs) with elbow- (and knee-) pads at Chanel. And Margiela toughened up a pair of striped trousers with beaded temporary-tattoo sleeves. It may be abrasive (and potentially uncomfortable), but we’re welcoming this rebellious Couture trend with open arms.
Céline’s Phoebe Philo is wrapping up the year on a definitive high note. Today, it was announced that the British designer is on the Queen’s New Year’s Honors list, and has been awarded an OBE (Officer of the Order of the British Empire) for her services to fashion. Philo joins the likes of Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton, Stella McCartney, and Dame Vivienne Westwood in the esteemed OBE club. Makeup artist Pat McGrath, too, got a nod today, receiving an MBE (Member of the Order of the British Empire). No doubt, these ladies have earned an extra glass of champagne at midnight.