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September 2 2014

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18 posts tagged "Sarah Lerfel"

Out Of Africa (And Into The Marais)

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Yaz Kurhan, better known as her nom de jewelry Yazbukey, is not one to hide her light under a bushel. For her “Fabulous African Saga” accessories and new home decor, Kurhan took over Tigersushi in Paris’ Marais neighborhood for a collection launch party with her likeminded friends, including stylists Catherine Baba and Elisa Nalin (above left, with Kurhan), Purple‘s Caroline Gaimari, Lanvin’s Elie Top, Sarah Lerfel from Colette, and Michelle Harper, in town from New York for Couture week. Fancy friends, however, doesn’t make for a stuffy hostess: Kurhan comfortably installed herself on a throne made of plastic grocery-store crates (made for the occasion by Diplomates, the Paris art collective) and greeted her guests.

Kurhan chose Africa as the theme for her Fall collection, based on childhood memories growing up in Saudi Arabia. “My dad was part of the Turkish embassy there and he organized the Islamic conference for many years,” she said. “I remember playing with the children of all the African dignitaries at the conference, and although I’ve never visited Africa, I got a feeling for its diversity from that experience.” Kurhan, who divides her time between Paris and New York (where she dreams up accessories for Zac Posen’s Z Spoke line), continues to work in Plexiglas, creating flattened versions of everyday Africana, including flora, fauna, and everything in between. Case in point: There are tiger’s paw necklaces with scratch-mark traces, snake sunglasses, and banana hair pins—as well as a ghetto blaster bag. And for the first time, plastic wall decals join the wearable offerings, including a portrait of Naomi Campbell and a lion’s head.

Photo: Courtesy of Yazbukey

Reed Krakoff Visits Paris, Hopes To Stay

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Reed Krakoff and his French wife Delphine love Paris. “I visit as often as I can,” he says. “I travel for inspiration because it’s my job, but even if I wasn’t working, I’d still be traveling.” He mentioned wanting to open a permanent Paris store one day. In the meantime, the designer (left, with Virginie Mouzat) and his brand’s new president, Valérie Hermann, created a showroom on three levels of the Galerie Karsten Greve in the Marais to introduce Parisians to his new collection. “I’ve kind of done everything in reverse,” Krakoff muses. “After 25 years designing for others, I really wanted to do my own thing and use all my experience to do it well.” Among those there to take it in: Sarah Lerfel, who buys Krakoff for Colette; Olympia Le-Tan and her illustrator papa Pierre Le-Tan, who has done projects for Krakoff at Coach; jewelry designer Harumi Klossowski, Balthus’ daughter; Comme des Garçons’ Adrian Joffe; fashion publishers Olivier Zahm of Purple and Ezra Petronio from Self Service; and Alexis Mabille, who didn’t let the fact of his impending haute couture show keep him away.

Photo: Courtesy of Reed Krakoff

In Paris, A Varied Crowd Vies For The ANDAM

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Paris Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt, Colette’s Sarah Lerfel, Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon, and other fashion insiders—myself included—gathered at the Ritz in blazing-hot Paris today to cast our votes for this year’s ANDAM Fashion Award winner. Last year, the €200,000 prize went to Hakaan Yildirim. This year, Adam Kimmel, Anthony Vaccarello, Commuun, Jeremy Laing, Palmer/Harding, and Yiqing Yin are in the running. (Yin was also up for the newly launched Young Fashion Designer Prize, alongside Calla Haynes and Barnabe Hardy.) I can’t reveal who won until tomorrow night when it will be announced at the French Ministry of Culture, but I can tell you how different the presentations were.

Kimmel, fresh off his “dark surfing” Spring 2012 men’s runway show, said he hates public speaking, then spoke off the cuff and at length. The most interesting tidbit: “For many seasons now, it’s been a dream for me to do womenswear,” he told us. (He designed wife Leelee Sobieski’s suit for the CFDA Awards, left.) Vaccarello, a shy Belgian, barely opened his mouth at all, preferring to let his three prototypes for next season do the talking. Commuun’s Iku Furudate and Kaito Hori tag-teamed, sharing such inspirations for their upcoming show as late fifties cinema, natural graphics, and Japanese architecture. Laing read from well-prepared notes, citing influences from Kawakubo and Yamamoto to Cristobal Balenciaga and Madeleine Vionnet to McQueen, for whom he freelanced for four seasons. Palmer/Harding’s Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding, among the least well-known of the bunch, introduced us to their shirting concept. And Yin gave a sneak preview of her haute couture show next week. She’ll be working extra hard between now and then: She lost one of her three dresses to a scooter tail pipe on the way over. Check back tomorrow for the results.

Photo: Neil Rasmus / BFAnyc.com

Kimmel, Laing, Vaccarello, And More
Among The 2011 ANDAM Prize Nominees

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ANDAM, the French organization devoted to the development of young fashion talent, announced its six finalists for its annual award today, and it’s an international bunch of up-and-comers—some better known than others. Adam Kimmel (a look from whose Fall ’11 men’s collection is above, right), Anthony Vaccarello, Commuun, Jeremy Laing (a look from whose Fall ’11 collection is above, left), Matthew Harding, and Yiqing Yin will go head-to-head in Paris at the end of June. Up for grabs is a €200,000 prize, courtesy of the National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts, and a yearlong mentorship by Ralph Toledano, formerly of Chloé. Like previous winners Hakaan Yildirim, Giles Deacon, and Gareth Pugh, the designer who takes the prize is obligated to set up operations in France. I’ll be sitting on the jury with, among others, Toledano, Hilary Alexander, Emmanuelle Alt, Sarah Lerfel, Humberto Leon, and ANDAM founder Nathalie Dufour next month. Stay tuned for the blow-by-blow.

Photos: Amanda De Simone / GoRunway.com (Laing); Courtesy of Adam Kimmel (Kimmel)

An Assortment Of Books You Can Judge By Their Covers

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Just how does a girl secure the services of one of the hottest filmmakers on the planet? “Well, I was a bit cheeky,” admits Olympia Le-Tan. “I met Spike Jonze two summers ago through friends when I first started making my bags. When he called and asked if he could order some, I said yes—if he’d do a film for me.” It took the busy Jonze a few years to keep his promise, but the short, which features a skeleton with a knife stuck through its ribs and a sultry creature (who bears a more-than-passing resemblance to Le-Tan) cavorting in and out of the pages of her embroidered book bags, screened last night at her Fall presentation.

Given her literary aesthetic, what better venue could Le-Tan have chosen than Paris’ legendary Shakespeare & Company bookstore? Pals like Sarah Lerfel, Olivier Zahm, Vincent Darré, and John C. Reilly (in town shooting Roman Polanski’s Carnage with Kate Winslet and Jodie Foster) crowded into Shakespeare’s twisting aisles to inspect the designer’s faux books (and a few of the shop’s real ones, no doubt). This season’s collection, Housewives’ Choice, was inspired by midcentury ladies’ reading materials: not only classic novels about women, like Anna Karenina and Madame Bovary, but cookbooks, romance novels, and milk cartons, too.

” ‘Housewives’ Choice’ was a BBC radio program in the fifties,” Le-Tan explained, “and it’s also one of my favorite reggae songs, so there’s a double meaning.” A little old, a little new—much like the collection itself. “It’s a mix between the fifties housewife and the modern-day woman,” she went on. “I don’t have a husband and I’m working, but I am nostalgic about the days when women used to make a real effort to look nice and take care of their husbands, their house, and the kitchen.” She looked nice in a printed hourglass dress, and to underline the point, wore a crisp white apron tied around her waist.