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11 posts tagged "Scott Schuman"

The Sartorialist Ponders Street-Style Blogs As Social Documents, The Worldwide Ubiquity of Denim Cutoffs

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In fashion circles, it’s a particular point of pride to get snapped by Scott Schuman, better known as the Sartorialist. Schuman—along, of course, with the genre’s mainstay, the Times‘ Bill Cunningham—can take a fair amount of credit for reinventing and popularizing street-style photography as we know it, and he remains one of its sharpest practitioners. Fiat invited Schuman to present some of his favorite images of Italian style for tonight’s “An Evening With the Sartorialist” at the Italian auto marque’s Soho pop-up gallery. (It’s 7 to 9 p.m. tonight at 18 Wooster St. in NYC; the event is open to the public, but RSVP is required at TheSartorialist@framenoir.com.) Style.com called Schuman bright and early this morning—immediately following the Royal Wedding, in fact—to talk street style’s ascendance, history, and aesthetics. He opened with a mock admission: “I admit it,” he said with a laugh when reached by phone. “I’m the designer!” A slightly more factual conversation followed.

OK, so you’re not Kate Middleton’s mystery designer. But if you saw her walking down the street, would you shoot her?
Uh…next question. [Her dress] seemed appropriate for the day.

That seems to be the consensus. In other news, Fiat is presenting “An Evening With the Sartorialist” tonight. What’ll we see there?
Just, like, a mini presentation of images that highlight Italian style. Fiat called me because, you know, I have a particular fondness for Italian style. It’s more about craftsmanship and fit and beauty than it is necessarily, you know, over-the-top wildness. So we printed photographs—we actually printed them probably about four times larger than the ones I usually print. They’re 30″ x 40″, so they’re pretty good-sized prints—beautiful Italian style at its best.

The landscape has changed so much since you started taking street-style photos.
There’s definitely a lot of people doing it. I don’t do it particularly as competition, but there’s definitely a lot of people doing it now and I think it’s great; I think it makes a great historical document at this moment. In the past, there were people like [Jacques-Henri] Lartigue, who shot street style in Paris in the 1910′s, 20′s and 30′s. Pretty much I think he was shooting the very high end. He came from a very rich family and he was shooting the very dramatic, high end of fashion. And people like the Séeberger brothers did the same thing—shooting the very high end, people going to the racetracks and all that. Bill Cunningham really was one of the first to start shooting on the street, everyday people, from some dressed at a very high level to some dressed at a very interesting level of less expensive clothes. But I think a lot of times he tended to go to the more dramatic.

Now I think the next step of that evolution is people shooting everything, from the overly dramatic to the very subtle to the very trendy. The technology gives us the ability to make a great document of this time. Continue Reading “The Sartorialist Ponders Street-Style Blogs As Social Documents, The Worldwide Ubiquity of Denim Cutoffs” »

Bill, Please

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In the bygone days before street-style blogs, there was just one man whose eye you hoped your outfit would catch. That’s The New York Times‘ Bill Cunningham, of course, a beloved staple on the fashion circuit for the last 50-plus years and the man who pioneered the art of snapping fashion trends as they happen on the street, at the gala, or in the front row. So no surprise that last night, several of his acolytes turned up at the CFDA and Calvin Klein-hosted screening of the documentary Bill Cunningham New York to pay tribute. “Of course we had to see this film,” Garance Doré said. Her date, Scott Schuman (a.k.a. the Sartorialist) agreed: “I think any street-style photographer is familiar with his work.”

This was a tribute paid in absentia: The modest Cunningham has made it mostly a point not to attend screenings of the film. But he was practically the only person in fashion not present. Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli (above, with BCNY producer Philip Gefter and director Richard Press), Carolyn Murphy, Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright, Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo, and editors like Grace Coddington and Sally Singer all made a Monday evening appearance. So did model Ginta Lapina, who saved her last night out before fashion week fittings for the documentary. “I love movies. It’s one of my favorite things to do in cold weather,” the 21-year-old blonde told us before the lights dimmed. “I see him all the time during the shows and he’s always so sweet. But then I watched the trailer before I came here and I’m excited to find out a different side.”

It’s that different side that the doc highlights, particularly Cunningham’s deep commitment to his craft. “You see him at all the events, but you didn’t know about his integrity,” Costa marveled. “One of the most amazing things is his honesty. It’s beyond inspirational.”

Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

Quiet On The Set, Please, Someone’s Butt Is Getting Bit

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Club Monaco has leapt into spring with help from an old hand, 80-year-old photographer Bert Stern. The lensman—best known for his photographs of Marilyn Monroe—shot the brand’s latest campaign, and blowups of the resulting black-and-white images loomed over the party Club Monaco threw last night at its Fifth Avenue boutique.

Known as a creator of classy, feminine photographs but not necessarily as a people person, Stern spent most of the evening downstairs in the quieter men’s department; upstairs, the swirl included jewelry designer Eddie Borgo and style documentarians Scott Schuman and Garance Doré. Lorenzo Martone found himself toting around Jessica White’s bag while she did some shopping. “Light-colored things,” White (pictured, right) explained. “I like very dark colors, but I’m going to lighten up my hair for the springtime—it’s going to be a reddish-brown. So it’s about soft, neutral colors.”

While her friend and fellow model Irina Shayk (pictured, left) wandered off with the personal shopper they were sharing, White recounted getting in trouble not so long ago for racy pictures leaked from the set of the latest Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. “We did a sandwich position where the photographer and the makeup artist were biting my buttocks. People took it really seriously. I had to make a public statement. So now I won’t allow people to take photographs on set anymore. They can’t photograph me getting my butt bit,” she explained. Presumably, that’s never been an issue for Stern.

Clint Spaulding/PatrickMcMullan.com

Brazilian Fashion’s Hometown Hero

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If Brazil feels hotter than ever this year, it may be thanks to an influx of international interest: Scott Schuman and Garance Doré both hopped down to Rio to shoot the scene, and some of the world’s most sought-after models—including Lara Stone and Chanel Iman—flew in to walk the runways of Rio and São Paulo fashion weeks. Some of the country’s greatest fashion exports, like Alexandre Herchcovitch, show their collections on their home turf before flying it off to Paris or elsewhere.

But the week also plays host to a few designers less known outside of the country. That isn’t to say they deserve to be less known. Reinaldo Lourenço counts Brazilians in the know among his devotees, including Cássia Ávila, the designer’s muse (pictured). A 20-year veteran model and the country’s answer to Cindy Crawford, she sat front-and-center at his thronged SPFW show and stayed on message. “I almost only wear Reinaldo Lourenço,” Ávila told everyone. “My dress today is from his 2002 collection. You can wear and wear him. I have pieces from 1997 and people always want to know who designed them…” American buyers, take note.

no cowboy boots, ever: scott schuman’s rules to live by

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Gap ad? Check. Regular feature in GQ? Check. “Visual collaboration” with Gant and free tweed blazers for life? Double check. OK, we might be making up the lifetime supply of preppy outerwear, but we seriously doubt Scott Schuman (a.k.a. The Sartorialist) is in serious want of nice clothes. Or fans. At last night’s party celebrating Schuman’s in-store campaign for Gant&8212;featuring ten of the photographer’s favorite, non-famous, normal New Yorkers (read: painfully attractive, stylish, artistic types with scooters in Gant gear) hordes of Schuman’s would-be subjects and blog devotees arrived at the party for a chance to spot greatness. Between congratulations, we found out what the über street photographer was doing next. “I’m not taking over the world. That would be a lot of responsibility,” Schuman clarified. “Hopefully I’ll have my first solo museum exhibit coming up in March at the Museum of the City of New York, and I’m closer to negotiating my first book deal. I get a lot of offers, but this is the first one I’m considering taking. It would be really great. It’s through a major, major publisher, so it would be available to a lot of people.” So, almost world domination. Schuman also issued some words of advice for anyone vying for a shot on his blog. “Don’t wear cowboy boots. Men or women. If you wear black, make sure it’s a good mix of proportion and texture. All black is boring, but black with proportion, texture, shape, and surface detail is a million times more interesting.” Of course, if you’re trying to get Schuman to notice you, he probably won’t. “It’s all about a curious mix,” he said. “I love being delighted by something I never would have expected.” Now go downtown and pose.

Photo: Theo Wargo/WireImage for GANT