8 posts tagged "Shayne Oliver"
The panel of experts has spoken, the votes are in, and today we can announce the twelve talents who will move on to the final round of the heated LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers competition. Atto by Julien Dossena, CG by Chris Gelinas, Gabriele Colangelo, Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air, Jacquemus by Simon Porte Jacquemus, Miuniku by Nikita and Tina Sutradhar, Thomas Tait, Tillmann Lauterbach, Tim Coppens, Simone Rocha, Suno by Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty, and Vika Gazinskaya will go head-to-head for the award’s 300,000 euro grant. A slideshow of the designers’ looks is available here.
But wait, you might be thinking. Weren’t there only supposed to be ten finalists? Yes, but LVMH’s team of forty industry insiders simply could not decide after surveying the work of the competition’s thirty semifinalists during an event at Paris fashion week. “It’s so hard,” offered Louis Vuitton’s executive vice president Delphine Arnault, who has been spearheading the initiative. “When we compiled the votes, four designers all had the same amount, so we let twelve in. I think it’s good.” We’re sure the finalists would agree.
The dozen men’s and womenswear designers, who hail from round the globe, will each have fifteen minutes to present their Fall ’14 collections at the LVMH headquarters in May. Judges including Karl Lagerfeld, Raf Simons, Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci, and others will consider their efforts, and later choose a winner. “All the [LVMH Prize] designers are really enthusiastic,” offered Arnault. “I’m sure the contestants are nervous, but at the same time, it’s an amazing opportunity to meet all these people.” In a room filled with powerhouses like that, we’d be nervous, too, but the final twelve can take solace in the fact that at least one prestigious juror has been in their shoes. “Karl [Lagerfeld] started his career after winning a prize, but he told me there were 200,000 applicants, not 1,200 as we’ve had,” relayed Arnault. “Karl even had to sit and draw in front of the judges to prove that someone else hadn’t done his sketches for him.” As for the eighteen semifinalists who didn’t make the cut, they can take solace in the fact that they’re eligible to apply again next year. “I’m sure they must be very disappointed, but I hope they see it as an opportunity. And I hope we helped them to make some key connections in the industry.”
As we’re sure you saw, the 2014 CFDA Award nominees and honorees were announced last night during a cocktail fete hosted by Nadja Swarovski and CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg at the Bowery Hotel. During the soiree, it was revealed that Tom Ford and Raf Simons will both receive honors, and Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs, and Joseph Altuzarra will duke it out for the Womenswear Designer of the Year title. (See the full list of nominees here.)
While the news that director John Waters would be hosting was pretty great, we were particularly thrilled to learn that Hood by Air—the streetwise anti-establishment luxury line whose Fall ’14 show featured old-school voguers—was nominated for the Swarovski Award for Menswear. It seemed to signify that the brand, which Style.com’s Maya Singer recently dubbed the most exciting thing happening in New York right now, had finally cracked, well, the establishment. “When you put commentary out there, you hope that people realize what’s going on and like your take,” offered designer Shayne Oliver. “I’m glad that they’re actually listening,” added the talent, who was just back from Paris, where he had presented his collection to a panel of judges during the penultimate round of competition for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. “We’ve been having some really cool meetings in Paris,” he later hinted. “I think there might be some European moves coming in the future.”
Tim Coppens, also just back from the LVMH event, stuck around for some revelry and received a nomination for the Swarovski Menswear honor, as well. “I’m excited,” he said. So excited, in fact, that he’s already started thinking about the June 2 awards ceremony. “What I’ll wear was actually the first thing that went through my head,” he laughed, adding that he’ll probably design something to don to the affair. Creatures of the Wind’s Christopher Peters, who, along with partner Shane Gabier, is up for the Swarovski Award for Womenswear, also pondered his ceremony attire. “I don’t have any formal clothes that don’t have food on them, so I might have to go shopping,” he deadpanned. “Last year, I wore this really insane Comme des Garçons jacket with embroidered music notes down the sleeves. I loved it more than anything, and then I wore it to a wedding in Texas and everyone thought I was with the band. So it was perfect.” When asked whether he was nervous about the competition, Peters replied, “We both feel extremely honored to be nominated, but we’re always nervous. About everything. I’m kind of, like, constantly panicked, so this is no different than my normal state.” Considering most of the designers in attendance last night were just back from sales in Europe and already working away on their next collections, we have to assume that Peters isn’t alone.
New York-based Hood by Air has, over the past few years, experienced a meteoric rise. Designer Shayne Oliver helped to elevate the super-luxury sportswear movement, and his printed T-shirts and oversize bombers are now favorites of trendsetters like Kanye West and A$AP Rocky. The brand is already carried by a bevy of international retailers, including Barneys New York, Opening Ceremony, VFiles, and Browns. Yet, despite all its success (not to mention its hoards of tech-savvy millennial fans), HBA does not have its own Web site. On Monday, however, the launch of hoodbyair.com will change all that. “People have had time to be introduced to the brand and interact with it in their own way,” offered Oliver by phone from Paris, where he is showing his Pre-Fall collection on Saturday. It’s the first time he’s presenting in the city. “There are so many portals through which you can access HBA, and it needs to have a real home now, where we can have its high and low aspects exist in the same place. This will help us spread our message. As a young label, you have to have that in order to survive.”
Upon its launch, the Web store will only sell site-exclusive T-shirts. “This is a very fresh experience. I want to grow into it, and I want it to be organic,” said Oliver. The preliminary site features a black-and-white interface and rotating models that give a 360-degree view of each garment. GIFS, social media elements, and more are on the way. “Before we take it to the next level, to a world with more video and more color, we want to master it,” explained Oliver. “We started with black and white because the site is still a baby—we’re starting with a blank space.”
The Web site ties in with HBA’s upcoming Paris Pre-Fall presentation, during which Oliver says he’ll unveil items that will only be available on the site. Also set to debut on Saturday? The label’s first foray into denim, as well as the first installment of an ongoing footwear collaboration with Italian brand Forfex (we’ll see part two during HBA’s NYFW presentation next month). “We’re so inspired by being American, and loving that we’re American, so we were like, let’s just do something really American in Paris and show a lot of jeans,” said Oliver of the new denim venture. When asked if he’d consider doing a full-on show in the City of Light, the designer paused. “Yeah. The response here has been really cool, and I was worried because the last thing I wanted to do was to come here and feel like I’m being vulgar toward Paris’ culture or structure. I’m not in any way trying to bow down to anyone, but I have to think about the opportunities that come with the acceptance of the brand. We’re super-excited.”
The Spring ’14 collections kicked off in New York on Wednesday, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Hood by Air, designed by Shayne Oliver
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Sunday, September 8
WHAT: “The collection, entitled GUMP, is a re-definition of Americana’s idiot savant.” — Shayne Oliver. The designer sent us a sneak peek at HBA’s Spring ’14 collection, above.
Few brands command such a cult following as New York-based Hood By Air. Helmed by Shayne Oliver, the label has acquired such a cool crew of fans that the mighty retailer Selfridges cherry-picked it to be one of the twenty brands featured in the department store’s new men’s contemporary concept floor, which, opening this week, will offer plenty of street, skate, and attitude.
By way of celebration, then, last night the Selfridges parking garage was transformed into a skate-park-cum-nightclub, and on display were pieces from HBA’s Spring ’14 collection with an Anglo twist. The label partnered with British heritage knitwear brand Corgi to create some sumptuous one-offs. “I wanted to collaborate with a brand that was steeped in tradition,” explained Oliver. “The idea was to pull together a contrast between that and our rebellious nature. You know, that old craftsmanship and handmade stuff. That’s something that we lack a little bit in America, and I wanted to work with a brand that represented the opposite of fast fashion. It was a little tribute to our coming to the UK and to Selfridges.” Continue Reading “Hood By Air Hits the UK” »