19 posts tagged "Simone Rocha"
It’s coming…. Last year, it was announced that Rei Kawakubo’s conceptual shopping wonderland, Dover Street Market, which already has locations in London and Tokyo, would be opening its doors in New York. But we didn’t know exactly when the Manhattan mecca would launch, until today. This afternoon, DSM revealed that the store, located on the fittingly unlikely corner of Thirtieth Street and Lexington Avenue, will bow on December 21. What treasures will be on offer, you ask? Prada, Thom Browne, Supreme, Simone Rocha, Christopher Kane, Alaïa, Atto, A.P.C., Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe, and a brand-new range from nineties fashion star Andre Walker are just some of the lines on DSM New York’s stock list. And don’t worry—wares from every breed of Comme des Garçons you could possibly dream of will be up for sale, too. Whether DSM will be able to transform the notoriously bland Murray Hill neighborhood into something with a little more elegance and edge is up for debate, but if anyone can do it, it’s Rei Kawakubo. For more information on DSM’s stateside arrival, read our Q&A with Comme des Garçons CEO Adrian Joffe.
Since its inception in 1993, the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN has supported the best and brightest of London’s young designers, fostering their transitions from fledgling talents to global stars. Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, Thomas Tait, and Simone Rocha are just some of its many success stories. Strangely, though, a designer has never sat on its prestigious judges panel, until today. The initiative announced that former NEWGEN-er Mary Katrantzou will join industry movers and shakers such as Sarah Mower, Kate Phelan, Yasmin Sewell, Ruth Chapman and more on the platform’s selection committee. Katrantzou, who launches her e-commerce site today, will step into her duties straight away and help choose the womenswear designers who will win sponsorship for the Fall ’14 season.
This morning, the British Fashion Council announced the nominees for the 2013 British Fashion Awards, to be held in London on December 2. The race for this year’s emerging talent awards will be especially exciting—while 2012 saw the comparatively long-established Jonathan Saunders and J.W. Anderson take the honors in the up-and-coming men’s and womenswear categories, respectively, 2013′s nominees include Marques’Almeida, Thomas Tait, Simone Rocha, Craig Green (left), Christopher Shannon, and Agi & Sam—the veritable new-new in London’s fashion pool. Green, in particular, has seen his star skyrocket this year, after peddling his unconventional take on menswear since his graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2012.
New in 2013: an International prize, for which Prada, Marc Jacobs, and Dior (Raf Simons) are named, and a Best Campaign award, the contenders for which have not yet been revealed. It’s sure to be a close race between Cara Delevingne, Edie Campbell, and Sam Rollinson for Model of the Year. Same goes for the womenswear designer of the year honor, for which Christopher Kane, Céline’s Phoebe Philo, and Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton have been named. For a full rundown of the 2013 nominees, visit the BFC’s Web site.
Forgive us for saying that it seems like designers get together pre-season to discuss ways to flummox journalists: “Let’s do floral, let’s do neoprene, let’s do trapeze, and, to really freak them out, let’s all do it together.”
Fashion conspiracy theory? Probably not, but there is just a hint of truth in it. “I don’t think we pull out these uniform ideas from the ether just like that,” Maria Grachvogel told us backstage at her Spring ’14 show. “We all have our inspirations and references, and sometimes, it all just collides, then we telegraph messages to each other without meaning to. I guess it’s a controlled coincidence.” One of those coincidences this season is the skirt-pants combo. Raf Simons played with the look in his Resort ’14 collection for Dior, and now, London designers have rolled with that ball.
The style opened Osman Yousefzada’s Spring ’14 show. His iteration offered a beautiful white lace overlay (above, right). Simone Rocha produced a pair in a very hip, plasticized crochet (above, center), and Roksanda Ilincic crafted hers in an elegant stiff pleated silk gazar. Meanwhile, Grachvogel presented a dress-trousers hybrid in flowy, diaphanous silk (above, left). Such designers as Naeem Khan have also been up to bat, but being Indian, it should be all but instinctive for him. Said Yousefzada backstage, “It’s the classic kurta silhouette that’s been going on for centuries in India—it’s as ubiquitous as the sari. I can’t figure out why it has taken so long to catch on here.” After this season, we’re guessing that will change.
London’s never-ending parade of young talent continues today, as NEWGEN announced the nine up-and-coming brands that will receive sponsorship for the Spring ’14 season. J. JS Lee, Brazilian-born knitwear maestro Lucas Nascimento (left), rising star Simone Rocha, design duo Marques’Almeida, and the clever trio behind Sister by Sibling will all receive catwalk funding, while Nasir Mazhar, Sophia Webster, and 1205 have earned presentation support, and Liam Fahy has won exhibition sponsorship. The designers will debut their Spring ’14 collections during London fashion week, which kicks off on September 13.